Thanks, everyone, for the help and responses. I am a little embarrassed to admit, I actually did study horticulture at MSU, but that was 32 years ago, and have not worked in the industry in many years. kmmsr--I bookmarked that MSU page thanks...should have thought of that myself! belgianpup---the soil test I had done in the spring of '07 did list all the factors you mentioned, but what I was mainly concerned with right now was the pH, and what Solomon was recommending. rhizo 1---thanks, I have just started composting, so hopefully that will help. Up to this point, I've just been burying kitchen waste in the garden as I can in the fall and early spring. What you said about the pine needles surprises me...I had an issue with a tree several years ago at our other house a short distance from here, and was told by several people contacted to layer pine needles underneath. I thought that the county extension agent even told me that, although I may be mistaken. Like I said, it was several years ago. jean001---I've noticed that the info out there in gardening books do tend to address what to do about acid soils. What disturbs me about Soloman's book is that he lists Lime as an ingredient for his organic fertilizer, and promotes liming of the soil without warning that this may raise the pH of your soil. If someone didn't know any better, they could really mess things up. I have just begun to read his book, so there may be more info later on, but he went through what to do to improve acid clay soils, and mentioned nothing about sandy and alkaline, which is what I have. It's very frustrating for me to read in these gardening books all what you can do to improve clay soils and raise the pH. I'm left saying "well, what about me?!" Doesn't anyone else have sand and a high pH? I will get that compost cooking, lay off the aluminum sulfate, keep adding all the OM I can get my hands on, and see what happens for next year. I really shouldn't comlain, I guess. With all we've done so far, we really do have the most prolific garden in the neighborhood. Our neighbors next door have started using some of our practices after being frustrated with their garden for a few years, and their garden looks much better this year. Thanks, everyone who responded!!

If you google, you will find dozens of sites with rather specific information, all providing more or less the same information. And if you understand the reasons behind some of these instructions you can determine that they are not frivolous suggestions but have some sound horticultural basis behind them. I hate to state anything in absolute terms - everything has a context that may require some modifications - but the following are factors that will encourage rapid establishment of your new tree and increase its long term survivability. Avoid amending the planting hole. Studies have shown that planting in your indigenous soil and backfilling with the same is preferred. Altering the soil in the planting hole can lead to soil interface issues affecting drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, plant high and mound up to the edge of the root ball with your own soil or an organic mulch. A wide and somewhat shallow planting hole is recommended. The width (and 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball is standard) encourages the outward spread of the root system. Many folks are of the impression that all tree roots go down deeply into the soil, therefore they need to dig a deep hole. While trees will put down deeper anchor roots, the bulk of the root system will eventually be located just under the soil surface. And since many containerized and B&B trees have minimal or congested root systems on planting, they need that freedom to expand. Digging too deep a planting hole often results in settling and your tree will become too deep, a sure-fire way to an early demise. IME, watering of newly planted trees and shrubs is very misunderstood. You want to water in well when first planted, priamrily to remove any air pockets in the planting hole, but also to equalize the moisture level of the rootball and the surrounding soil. Make sure the rootball is adequately moistened before planting - it is pretty hard to rewet a dry rootball once it's in the ground. And you will need to keep the planting area evenly moist (but not wet) for 6-8 weeks. Even in winter this may require periodic watering if your weather is dry. Mulching lightly over the rootball (but keep away from the trunk) will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds that may compete. I've seen more new trees die over winter because the owner assumed periodic rainfall was adequate. Regular deep watering is also required through the first couple of growing seasons as well. It is only after this period of time of establishment that the tree will be more or less self-sufficient water-wise, except for periods of extended drought. Avoid fertilizing when planting. The activity of planting and related disturbance stresses a plant and you want to avoid fertilizing a stressed plant. Supplemental fertilizer may be applied later at the beginning of the growing season or next fall when it is most efficiently metabolized, but only if soil tests first indicate fertilizer is necessary. Trees generally require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization. Here is a link that might be useful: basic tree planting instructions

I have bought a pH test kit from Petsmart that is pretty good. It is a solution that you add 3 drops of it to prepare soil sample solution in the test tube ( in liquid form ). It comes with pH color chart that you compare your sample next to it. This kit is sold/used to check fish tank pH . Last year I did some of my own tests also had done by professional lab. They were virtually the same. the kit cost like 7 bucks and you can make 250 tests with it. With the soil pH you don't need to be dead accurate. Even a half a point deviation on the pH scale should be good enough for gardening purpose. Sey

When you get that soil test, be sure to follow directions (i.e. take it from several spots, and not just the top inch but a core from 0-6" or so is usually recommended, and mix the samples, then take a representative sample from that). Get major nutrients (P, K - you can skip N, it usually costs extra and is so mobile it doesn't tell you much and this analysis is mostly used by farmers to calculate optimum fertilizer); micro nutrients Fe, Ca, Mg etc.; organic matter and pH. At least. They may have a package deal. Check if your state has an Ag Extension service with a lab. Usually the cheapest. And, ask the lab for recommendations on what to amend with to grow a garden. The can usually do that based on vegetables, perennials, lawn, pasture etc. Report back on your results and we'll try to help with any questions. And don't put down that lime until you know what you need.