Adding lime will raise the pH. It is used in areas with acidic soil to raise the pH closer to neutral.

If your soil is already alkaline, the last thing you want to do is add lime to it to make it even more alkaline.

That's what I thought. It seems most people have acidic soil, because I see lots and lots of advice about lime, but not too much info on alkaline soil. Thanks so much for your response.

Many people do suggest adding lime to soil but like any other soil amendment, other than compost and organic matter, nothing should be added to your soil without a good, reliable soil test to guide that application. You cannot add enough organic matter to change your soils pH, even though a swamp or bog may have that much but the water and the anaerobic condition of the soil contribute as much to that condition.
Talk with the horticulturist at your local office of the Michigan State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service about what might need be done to your soil, adn mention that you are practicing organic gardening methods. MSU has many studies under way using organic methods.

Here is a link that might be useful: MSU CES

You can use agricultural gypsum to add calcium to a soil that is deficient in that element, and you will not change the pH. I'd suggest that you get a professional soil test done to check out your actual calcium levels. You may not need to worry about it at all.

Keep adding that organic matter!

Pine needles will not do any more to reduce the alkalinity of your soil than any other type of organic matter. Just so you know.

Not only do you need a soil test, but you also need RECOMMENDATIONS based on that test. Didn't that test you got last year show more than the pH?

The basic $8 soil test here shows:
% organic matter
Phosphorus levels
Potassium levels
Magnesium levels
Calcium levels
Sodium levels
Soil pH
Hydrogen
Cation Exchange Capacity (CED)
% cation saturation for Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium,
Hydrogen and Sodium
Nitrogen levels
Sulfur level

A better test would show even more, but that's not bad for the price.

There is more to soil readings than pH. If you get the calcium and magnesium levels right, the correct pH should follow.

If you've got a library in town, get Neal Kinsey's DVD titled "Hands-On Agronomy". If your library doesn't have it, ask them to get it for you as an Interlibrary Loan. It's all about soil and soil tests, easy to understand, interesting.

Sue

In addition to what has been said, stop using aluminum sulfate to change soil pH. It can damage and/or kill some plants.

To explain Solomon's suggestions, he has gardened with acid soils.

Further, some garden books discuss soil pH, whether acid or alkaline, and suggest what to do next. The unfortunate thing is that they often launch into "the best thing to do for your soil" is ... and the explanation is for acid soils, only.

Beyond that, adding lots of compost works well for both acid and alkaline soils. And because you say that your soil is on the alkaline side, use fertilizers that say they are "acid-reacting."

Thanks, everyone, for the help and responses. I am a little embarrassed to admit, I actually did study horticulture at MSU, but that was 32 years ago, and have not worked in the industry in many years.
kmmsr--I bookmarked that MSU page thanks...should have thought of that myself!

belgianpup---the soil test I had done in the spring of '07 did list all the factors you mentioned, but what I was mainly concerned with right now was the pH, and what Solomon was recommending.

rhizo 1---thanks, I have just started composting, so hopefully that will help. Up to this point, I've just been burying kitchen waste in the garden as I can in the fall and early spring. What you said about the pine needles surprises me...I had an issue with a tree several years ago at our other house a short distance from here, and was told by several people contacted to layer pine needles underneath. I thought that the county extension agent even told me that, although I may be mistaken. Like I said, it was several years ago.

jean001---I've noticed that the info out there in gardening books do tend to address what to do about acid soils. What disturbs me about Soloman's book is that he lists Lime as an ingredient for his organic fertilizer, and promotes liming of the soil without warning that this may raise the pH of your soil. If someone didn't know any better, they could really mess things up. I have just begun to read his book, so there may be more info later on, but he went through what to do to improve acid clay soils, and mentioned nothing about sandy and alkaline, which is what I have. It's very frustrating for me to read in these gardening books all what you can do to improve clay soils and raise the pH. I'm left saying "well, what about me?!" Doesn't anyone else have sand and a high pH?
I will get that compost cooking, lay off the aluminum sulfate, keep adding all the OM I can get my hands on, and see what happens for next year. I really shouldn't comlain, I guess. With all we've done so far, we really do have the most prolific garden in the neighborhood. Our neighbors next door have started using some of our practices after being frustrated with their garden for a few years, and their garden looks much better this year.
Thanks, everyone who responded!!

A pH of 7 is neutral. A pH of 7.5 is only slightly alkaline. Do you see symptoms of alkalinity induced chlorosis? If plants are performing well at the current pH, don't attempt pH adjustment. If your pH really is 7.5 (I would trust the lab over the home kit) and you really have sand, use 5 to 10 lbs. soil sulfur tilled 6 to 8 inches for pH less than 7 in this case.

The topic of pine needles adding acidity causes great debate. There are differing schools of thought on the matter. The bottom line is that pine needles are organic material which will decompose over time. Pine needles will cause no harm. I mulch with pine needles.

Lorna