"I'm guessing the pot is so large that I've been overwatering the tree and also not flushing it when I water. Is this he reason the leaves are turning brown?" It sounds like the foliage that's in the process of being shed is part of the plant's drought response due to too much water in the soil. Too much water = not enough oxygen to drive the O2 dependent process of water uptake = not enough water getting to distal parts of the plant (leaves - particularly tips and margins) = shedding in response. The yellowing is a result of the lack of chlorophyll that is being salvaged (along with mobile nutrients and other bio compounds) by the plant from leaves being shed. "..... what should the dowel rod look like when it needs to be watered? Should it be completely dry at the bottom of the rod and not pick up any of the dirt?" When the dowel first comes out clean and dry, it's time to water. I'd work toward getting watering under control, then follow the instructions in the thread I left a link to above to turn the plant around. There are some things you can do to help avoid limitations associated with saturated media. You're sure to have other questions, so don't be shy about voicing them. We all want you to have the best growing experience you possibly can. Al

Hello! Ive been having issues with my fiddle getting yellow edges with little brown spots. As time has progressed the newer growth has developed yellow tips and it slowly moves inwards on the leaf. There are also little brown spots that have been developing even on leaves without the yellowing. On the little stem in the pot the growth has been stunted and is yellowing much faster and is gaining more spots. I water about 1-2 cups a week and just started fertilizing about a month ago. I realized that my soil wasn’t draining well about a week ago so I changed all the soil with over/under watering resistant soil from miracle grow and added a layer of rocks at the bottle so no water can sit on the roots. I’m in San Diego so the weather is about 70 degrees and the plant has been in my North facing room. Any advice? Thanks.

I would repot your Fiddle Leaf Fig with new good quality potting soil and into a slightly bigger pot with drainage holes. A clay type pot is better than plastic. Make sure your Fig isn’t being exposed to hot air from a vent and turn the plant every now and then so that it gets even light

Did you use a medium specifically formulated for potted plants - a potting medium? Inexpensive water meters are rather useless as they measure electrical conductivity, not moisture levels, ....... better to use a wooden 'tell'. It's pretty apparent you have an issue related to over-watering and the lack of oxygen that accompanies it. There is no way to determine if the root system is compromised by a pathogen w/o examining it. Look for dark, rotten roots or roots from which the outer covering slides off easily. At a minimum, you need to make sure you have watering under control. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al