Welcome thoughts on appliance decisions
Amy B
7 years ago
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Comments (16)
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Riding mower decisions...opinions welcome
Comments (11)Hmmm, I see your quandary and feel your pain on this one. Let's see, subtracting 25% of .65 acres leaves .4875 or a half acre to be mowed. The "classic" wisdom used to be that you didn't need a rider until you were mowing over half to three quarters of an acre. a 30% grade will require a strong trans, and you've already discovered you're going to have to upgrade tires as the turf tires they come with are useless on grades. Another consideration is that the lower end units probably aren't going to have the best brakes and if a belt breaks going up or down..... It almost seems that you're going to be forced into buying a much stronger and bigger unit than you need. I've known folks who had similar situations who used a self propelled walk behind while wearing golf shoes (pegs) and it seemed to work OK, not that I paid a lot of attention. I have no personal experience with self propelled walk behinds as to their traction ability. Since they have solid tires you could easily add the screw in studs which are becoming more and more popular. Save a ton of money and get a good cardio workout every time you cut the grass!! Unfortunately one of those won't pull a garden cart or an aerator. I think if I were you, I'd be looking around for a used GT, personally I have a strong preference for the Craftsman 6 speeds, but there's a ton of folks who swear by the hydros on slopes as well. I like the manual trans as I'm comfortable taking it apart if need be, but that's just me. If you bit the bullet and drop $2500-3000, you'll probably get at least a 50" deck and have your mowing done in about ten minutes...:-). That leaves $3000 sitting in the shed 99% of the time. Not a wise allocation of resources. I think I'd be looking into a used machine, save more than half the up front cost, and if you're careful and test it out well before purchase it should hold up. Again, beating the "manual trans" drum, I'd be more comfortable buying a used manual than a hydro. Keep us informed, Good luck, Ev...See MoreDining room decisions - opinions welcome
Comments (41)I'm not at all a formal person, but I do have an eye for balance - and your room is very well-balanced*. I'd not move any furniture or the mirror. I love your prints and it took some searching to come up with the execution I wanted to suggest. Frame a large part of the wall and hang the prints within that frame. You might even paint that section of wall a different color. * With one exception: the chandelier. However, I can't tell if it's the perspective of your photograph or the actual size of the 'chandy'. Did you take the photo from the stairs? If it really is that big, I would change it out for something less heavy and much shorter. As for the rug, I would not get seagrass; I'd get a formal rug with wide stripes or blocks of color to balance all the curves in the room. And in pastel to medium shades to reflect the light ceiling color. (Don't change that, either!) Very, very pretty room. Here is a link that might be useful: Frames within a frame...See MoreKitchen in 1700's home - thoughts welcome
Comments (22)Keep in mind that almost nothing in your kitchen is "historically accurate" to the original period, except perhaps any original window sashes and possibly the ceiling if it's the underside of the floors above. This absolves you from any requirement to attempt a restoration or recreation. And also absolves you from any pseudo-preservationist need to have a "colonial" style kitchen, unless that's entirely to your taste. The "colonial" style dates to the very late 1800s through the 1950's. It can look odd in truly old houses, IMO. True 18th c kitchens wouldn't be considered workable by most, if not all, modern users. I live in a period early (almost completely intact) 19th c farmhouse and while I am deeply preservationist about the "bones" of my buildings, the interior fittings not so much. And anyway the "fittings" of 18th and early 19th c. kitchens would have been next to nothing anyway as those kitchens are the definition of the currently-popular "unfitted" look. The most useful advice I can give new owners of older buildings is to delay doing anything more serious than painting until you have been in your building for many months, preferably a year. Most early ideas are products of what you bring to the design, not what the house will teach you about what it needs. And old houses are very vulnerable to exogenous notions that end up being mistakes. If your kitchen seems too dark, then experiment with a lighter color(s) of paint on the cabs. This is the time to take risks with paint alone. It will alow you to feel that you are putting your stamp on the house without putting you (and your building) at risk for irrversible mistakes. And keep in mind that old houses were dark by intention. That lack of external light was inherent in the design, technology, sociology and style of these houses. Many old houses are severely damaged when new 21st c owners move in and start messing around with the fenestration to make modern "light-filled" rooms. If you must have such a space for a kitchen, or principal rooms, then consider building an addition to accomodate it. You can rarely go wrong by going very slow when renovating old buildings. You will save money, time and avoid the dismay that comes from later realizing your earliest plans (and hopefully, not alterations) were mistakes in the understanding and care of your house. I've lived in my 75-year younger house for decades and I am still discovering new facets of its long history. Yours has even more to teach you, if you take the time to listen. HTH, L....See MoreOk...here is what I am thinking (greenhouse) Any thoughts are welcome.
Comments (13)Laura, if I am not mistaken, those types of structures are only meant to extend growing periods, not to hold anything all winter...So you could probably extend your growing season my a month or two in fall and in spring...This is a great advantage even if you can't keep them in there all winter...You would have more space available in your home and only have to house them in there for the winter.. I would get in and use it until you know winter is on your door step. Then on the first warmish day I would take them all in and take that structure down until you know winter is over..Your space heater will keep them warm just fine and the heat of the sun will heat the structure up as soon as March and as late as the end of November.. Then too you would have a much easier time of watering and keeping pests at bay! You will probably find it less aggravating to keeping all this plants inside for a shorter period of time..I used a small version of one like that for 3 years and I loved it until I left it out all winter once..I pushed it and it broke that year... If you are going to do this, then I would make sure to anchor it good for those strong winds and that's it)...See MoreAmy B
7 years agoAmy B
7 years agormsaustin
7 years agoAmy B
7 years agoAmy B
7 years agoAmy B
7 years agohomepro01
7 years ago
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