Do I have compost, or a big pile of junk?
Leslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years ago
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kimmq
7 years agoLloyd
7 years agoRelated Discussions
What Have You Fed Your Compost Pile Today?
Comments (105)Egg Shells Paper towels Spoiled fruit Dryer lint Spoiled Straw Garden Trimmings Shreded Junkmail Alfalfa Meal TeePee rolls with a little bit of teepee on it UCG Yup I have one of those compost bins that used to be a wine barrel. I opened it the other day and whooo it smelled to high hell, plus lots of hairy mold. Well I added some straw and mixed it with a fork instead of turning the barrel. I guess I added too much water or too much green material. I will keep adding paper and the like to try to soak up some of the moisture. Despite all of this it was getting warm but not hot. It's interesting reading what everyone compost. Even the wife is getting all into it. Most of the time she will ask if I want something for the compost and yesterday she even with to a big bix store and bought a small garbage can to sit on the kitchen counter for composting. Larrick...See MoreJuly Thread: What Have You Fed Your Compost Pile Today?
Comments (89)This morning it got kitchen scraps - bell pepper scraps, onion scraps, mushroom scraps, ucg, tomato scraps, used (uneaten) dog food, left-over coffee, tea bags, and shredded paper to add some browns to it. I then added more water to the container before taking it out to the pile - it helps get everything out of the container, wet the papers down to where they'd stay with it, and helps with the current dry state of my pile. Then all of my piles got watered, because it's been a couple weeks since our last rainfall. I do very passive composting, but whatever I'm doing seems to work, because when I turn the piles, it smells like earth. :)...See MoreHow Do I Keep Rats Away From Compost Pile?
Comments (21)Well Merryberry, I went the easy way out here and bought a galvanized steel trash can with lid for $22.00 at Home Depot. I am thinking that I can drill it full of holes on the bottom, top, and sides and then bury a foot or two into the ground. Nice tight fitting lid should keep those buggers out while the holes will let in air and moisturure (and earthworms at ground level). I am considering pushing the lid down in a concave manner so that what little rain we get in S TX will filter into the compost. One last thing- why not set it immediately adjacent to my tomato cage so that the compost will boost my tomato production? (I have seen sketches of a wire compost bin surrounded by tomato cages so that the nutrients could leach into the ground and feed the tomatoes) That may be a good idea for those of you who are fortunate enough to have the room to do it. I have already made the choice to cover most of my yard with fruit trees....See MoreDo I really need to build huge piles to compost?
Comments (14)Lois, ALL organic matter will decompose, eventually. I make good compost from ONLY horse manure +water+air. And good compost ONLY from grass clippings +water+air. The ONLY major difference between 'aging' and 'composting' is management air and water in the mixture. But I do make even 'better' compost faster, from combining both manure and grass +water+air. Heat-generating microbes will 'quicken the pace' by heating the toughest materials, but are NOT essential to produce quality compost. Composting is simply a 'management' activity to help speed up Mother Nature's process. I am an "intensive" management composter - because my focus is to obtain the very best quality result in the shortest period of time. I'm happy when I start-to-finish a 5' x 7' x 4' high pile in 90-120 days. Almost a ton, dry weight. But most folks don't consider that as 'fun'. Figure out what would be an enjoyable, do-able level of activity, to produce the amount of product YOU want, how fast. Ingredients/tools/effort/time...Same as cooking. The methods of management are as varied as there are people, who want material for plants, in which nutrients are already 'decomposed' back into a form that plants can uptake again quickly. Trash can or barrel will work. Bottom and side 1/2" dia. holes spaced 8" - 10" apart worked best for me - holes too large and material comes out too much. But keeping the lid on tight during rolling is IMPORTANT. For a metal trash can, pre-drill for 6-8 screws around the top edge. Tie an old sock to each handle for lifting, then U-bolt the handles down tight. Screws won't keep the handles tight and are dangerous when reaching into the can. Put in the top screws, lay it down and roll it around. 3-5 minutes every 3-4 days. Add water if needed AFTER it has been aerated. If the material becomes too wet, it won't mix/aerate well (ka-thump; ka-thump). If that happens, add dry leaves/grass and keep rolling. Might be difficult to set upright again, and rolling it back up an incline, can get tiresome. Lots cheaper than a tumbler, though. Get a 2nd can working - stop putting scraps in #1 after 2 months, while you fill up #2 for 2 months. After a total of 4 months, put the #1 material on/in the garden dirt and start a new 'pile' in it. After that, you have a continuous supply every 2 months. Quality of what you get depends on what/how much you put in and how you managed the process. If you have more available materials, and/or need more 'finished' product than 2 cans makes in 4 months, think about starting a pile. People only move material. Mother Nature composts. By using microorganisms. Composting is 'ranching' in a microsopic sense. Some microbes create heat - others don't, and most thrive in lower heat ranges created by the ones that do, if they do. Microbes have their own 'cycles' based on what's in the material, that they can 'eat'. Microbes 'breathe' oxygen and 'exhale' carbon dioxide. Different from the way we do - but same result. If you tie a bag over a critter's head, the CO2 that it exhales, will quickly kill it - by replacing oxygen. Does the same thing to microbes when the air trapped in decomposing material becomes toxic due to CO2 accumulation. Turn the pile before too many of the 'critters' die, and you won't have to kick-start the pile 'over' again. Tumbler-type 'bins' do aerate material well - but have relatively small capacity, same as trash can. The larger ones work better, to the degree they contain more biomass. No structure is necessary to contain material being composted, but where material is thickest - decomposition is fastest (biomass compression) - and further toward the edges of a conical pile, decomposition takes place at a slower rate. Higher, vertical pile walls compost more completely, faster - especially with compressed outer edges to retain moisture. I obtain vertical pile walls without a stationary bin, using a simple, adjustable wood frame. Small-sized materials decompose faster than larger-size pieces. How much material you obtain to compost with, how much space you have available and how much energy/time you have to apply to composting, essentially determines size and convenience issues of operational design. For 'fast' composting, the 'standard' is one cubic yard, with the 3' high being more important than width and length dimensions, but as Val commented - a little conical pile will work - just takes longer. If you opt to use a wire screen as a 'bin', I recommend tamping the sides snugly to 'insulate' the pile and help retain moisture. Dry material does not decompose quickly, even if piled 10' high. Air flow into a pile is also not a major issue, and with coarse material, can be detrimental by drying it. Simply turn the pile before the microbes run out of air, and make sure plenty of gas exchange takes place in the material when you turn it (screening). If pile air supply does become depleted - then anaerobic microbes take over later - which are slower - and a bit smellier - but will do the same job eventually (as long as moisture is sufficient). Plan to turn the pile before and after taking a long vacation. Use materials at hand or easily obtainable. Don't spend money on composting - unless needed to make you happy - in the doing of it - and with the results. Remember the primary principle of composting: With YOUR pile, YOU are the ONLY expert. And some of the advice you get will be very wrong. Simply because 'THEY' don't know what YOU are doing. When you make soup - you make it your way - to your taste - and that makes it the RIGHT way. It's your soup. Some people follow 'recipes' - some don't. Depends on the degree of consistency desired. Important thing is enjoy the activity. Keep telling yourself: "...it's good for me...it's good for me...as your friends walk past (whispering to each other) as you roll the trash can round 'n round... Robert...See MoreLeslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years agoLloyd
7 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agokimmq
7 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years agokimmq
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoarmoured
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agotoxcrusadr
7 years agotete_a_tete
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agotete_a_tete
7 years ago
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