Taming the jungle - need advice re: tree and brush removal
mxk3 z5b_MI
7 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Taming and maintaining wild blueberries
Comments (20)Wild (lowbush) blueberries cannot be 'tamed', they only can be maintained by maintaining their habitat. You know whether or not you have wild blueberry bushes: their size ranges from 2" to 12", and the flavor of the berries is incomparable. No other 'blueberry' tastes like the low-bush wild blueberry. Wild Maine blueberries are now offered frozen in grocery stores, the only brand that we personally know that offers true wild Maine berries is Wyman. If you have only a few small blueberry plants and if they haven't increased on their own they may need more acid soil. You can use acidifiers that are labeled for rhododendrons or azaleas but before doing so consult U.Maine Extension to learn what dilution you need. Also ask whether mulching and more sun may be necessary. My blueberries grow in very thin soil over granite, are in full sun away from trees but they enjoy the 'mulch' provided by weeds and other low berry plants (cranberries). Except for fog, dew, or rain they're never watered, so it appears that they enjoy quite dry conditions. Though commercial growers irrigate the barrens and maintain other cultural practices (spot burning in the spring), we do nothing at all and always have a decent crop. If your berries aren't dropping to the ground and seeding, it's possible that birds and animals are eating them. In that case you can reserve a few berries for propagating. For propagation advice, consult U.Maine Extension. http://www.extension.umaine.edu/topics/blueberries.htm The answers you seek regarding blueberry culture are in the appended text below, copied from: http://www.wildblueberries.com/about_wild_blueberries/ Wild Blueberries of Maine & Canada One of only three berries native to North America, the Wild Blueberry (vaccinium angustifolium) thrives in the glacial soils and northern climate found in the fields and barrens of Downeast Maine and Canada. Rich in antioxidants, Wild Blueberries have grown naturally for thousands of years. The Lowbush Blueberries Unlike highbush cultivated blueberries, Wild Blueberries are not planted. These lowbush blueberries are primarily spread by rhizomes or underground runners, which give rise to new roots and stems. All shoots arising from the same rhizome system have similar characteristics and are referred to as a blueberry clone. Wild Blueberry fields and barrens actually produce many different lowbush blueberry clones, which account for the variations in color and size that characterize the Wild Blueberry crop. Growing and Harvesting: Blueberry Growers Combine Tradition and Technology Naturally suited to acidic, low-fertility soils and challenging winters, Wild Blueberries are a low-input crop requiring minimal management. The berries are grown on a two-year cycle. Each year, half of a growers land is managed to encourage vegetative growth and the other half is prepared for harvest. In May, growers import a billion commercial bees to aid the native bee population in pollinating the barrens and fields. There are many bee species associated with Wild Blueberries, including bumble bees and honey bees. Native bees are exceptional pollinators and Wild Blueberry growers take care to preserve wild bees through conservation practices. The Blueberry Grower  Managing the Harvest After the harvest, which begins in late July and continues through August, the plants are pruned to the ground by mowing or burning. Wild Blueberries are harvested commercially only in Maine and Canada. The oldest commercial processing company dates back to 1874 and many of todayÂs independent, family-owned growers have been in the Wild Blueberry business for generations. Many Wild Blueberry crops are still harvested the traditional way, using hand-held berry rakes that were first invented in 1910. Whether hand raked or machine harvested, Wild Blueberries are sorted, cleaned and processed within hours of being picked, using state-of-the-art technology to reserve their flavor, quality and antioxidant capacity. From Fresh to Frozen Blueberries  Preserving Taste & Nutrition Growers use winnowing machines in the fields to remove leaves and twigs before the berries are washed and frozen. Wild Blueberries are individually quick frozen (IQF) using a method that allows for the fast preservation of taste and nutrition for millions of berries. IQF berries can remain frozen for over two years without loosing their flavor or nutritional value. Laser color sorters are also utilized to remove anything but the finest quality Wild Blueberries prior to packing. Modern Crop Management  Maintaining Healthy Land & Healthy Crops Wild Blueberry growers are strongly committed to best agricultural practices. They use sustainable management techniques to ensure healthy crops and to protect Wild Blueberry lands for future generations. Because Wild Blueberries are indigenous to Maine and Canada, they are naturally resistant to many native pests. Still, growers are challenged to minimize crop damage caused by environmental stressors such as disease, drought, insect damage and winter injury. Using Integrated Crop Management (ICM) and Integrated Pest Management (IPM) throughout the crop cycle, growers monitor disease and insect levels to minimize fruit destruction without harming the environment. Good luck. I hope your berries spread and flourish....See MoreNeed advice re gardening with ticks!
Comments (27)Woody, you need to get rid of the chipmunks. They are a carrier of deer ticks, possibly more so than deer. Where there's two or three, there's so many more behind them. Gosh, they breed like crazy! We've gotten at least 75 this year, and that's only when we see about six at any one time. They just keep coming! NH is one of the worst states for Lyme, so it's pretty serious here. We have a son with a genetic disorder, so we have gone so far as to spray each year for ticks and mosquitoes. I'm not a fan of chemicals, but we can't take any risks. I've watched my garden over these years and still see all sorts of bees, including honeybees, butterflies, dragonflies, etc. No ticks or mosquitoes though. I actually had a therapist tell me that some in the naturopath community up here think spraying is a good idea, even though it is chemical, compared to the risks of so many tick and mosquito borne diseases that are out there. We also have Triple E...deaths associated with it in NH. My mom recently met with a company that sprays for ticks, and they have issues with chiggers (seriously, that would be grounds for me to move! LOL!) and they have been applying a natural spray mainly consisting of garlic. They have seen a great reduction of ticks. Whenever I've worked in their garden I would have multiple ticks on me throughout the day, and many times find them on me on the plane ride home! Yikes! So for them to say they haven't had any ticks on them since this garlic treatment started makes me think it must really work. Seems to keep deer away too. Our spray regimen does as well because there are aromatic oils in it. If you check with a local pest company they might have organic sprays that might be worth looking into. Over the course of a season it is quite expensive though. But, if you don't pull ticks off you regularly after working in the garden, maybe you don't really have a major tick problem? We started spraying when every time I came out of multiple areas of the garden I'd have four or five ticks crawling on me. And I wasn't even working in tall grasses or woods. I guess the good thing about Lyme is that you have a bit of a warning with the bullseye, so there is time to get meds before running into real trouble. Deer ticks are tiny so tick checks are so important. Although, I have such a head of hair (I suppose much like your dog, only blonde!), I don't think I'd ever be able to find any ticks on my head........ Good luck with whatever you decide to do. T2D (Susan)...See MoreAdvice for training/taming Japanese Wisteria on a Pergola
Comments (5)A & B are new growth - but not at what I call the whippy stage :-) Since I have both a Chinese and a Japanese wisteria and the Chinese one will produce flowers in summer on growth that looks like that, I'm leery of cutting it back at that stage - even though my Japanese wisteria has never produced the secondary summer flowers that the Chinese one does :-) Leave those A&B for a few days and they will likely look more like this:That is the 'whippy' look - and they are in desperate need of cutting back in that picture! Re the flowerbud - the picture is a bit fuzzy so I can't tell for sure - but I suspect it may be just a fat foliage bud. Because the foliage on the Japanese wisteria emerges early, I remember how disappointing it was in the first year or two when fat buds turned out to be foliage, not flowers :-( My Japanese one started blooming at 5 years old - and there was no mistaking the flowerbuds! Here are a couple of views of the flowerbuds: early in spring (old picture from first year of bloom - frost in the forecast, hence the protective cover!): May 6 2017:...See MoreMaple tree troubles: need advice
Comments (15)I am no expert, only know what I was taught and has worked for me. It really depends on what you are planting - what that plant likes in its native habitat (like lots of moisture or not, lots of drainage or not, acid vs. alkaline). In general, a wide but not that deep of a hole - only as deep as the root ball - or less - with the clay broken up along the sides and bottom. Many trees will do better if the root ball is only 2/3-or 3/4 into the hole, but I wouldn't expect a maple to need that. Refill with mostly the native soil - some amendment is good, but you don't want to make a very different soil texture. Klem1, I also greatly amended my planting beds except the area where I planned natives, because my yard had very poor drainage - standing water for hours after a moderate rain. I dug trenches about 2' deep, broke up the soil at the bottom with a fork, and refilled with a mix of the clay and any organic matter I had to hand - shredded paper, leaves, tree trimmings, straw, the grass clumps. Seems to have worked well, but I did learn that the sweet cherry tree was one of those that preferred to be planted higher. Arjun, it seems that you did all that I was taught - I just wonder from your picture if the tree is planted a little too deeply....See Morerginnie
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7 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoagardenstateof_mind
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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7 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agowoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
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