Citrus....I'm back! New Calamondin trees
Monica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years ago
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johnmerr
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Questions about Calamondin repotting
Comments (37)Moving them to a 6 inch ceramic and using the soil you bought will probably be alright. The problem with that soil is that in larger pots, it becomes compacted and leads to root rot. You still have to be careful about over watering. Water well immediately after repotting. Do not fertilize for a week or two. Keep them in the shade for a couple of weeks, then partial shade for a week, then full sun. You might consider putting it into a better soil mix used by many on this forum. If you decide to use another mix, you will need to remove all of the old soil from the roots by dunking the root ball in and out of water. You may have to use a garden hose to gently force the old soil off. Or, use something like a screwdriver: stick it into the root ball and pull down to loosen the soil. Dunk and repeat. Many people on this forum use either the gritty or 5-1-1 mix, both of which are fast draining and do not retain too much water.. The ingredients for 5-1-1 are easier to find. This is what I use: My version of Al Tapla's 5-1-1 Mix · 5 parts pine bark mulch (remove ½” pieces through 1/2 inch screen) (Some people use Repti Bark instead of mulch. They do not screen it.) Be sure to soak the bark overnight. · 1 part sphagnum peat · 1 part perlite (coarse, if you can get it) · 1 Tb garden lime /gal 5-1-1 mix (measure the 5-1-1 mix) · Osmocote plus (follow manufacturer’s instructions). This is optional. · Moisten well and wait at least 2 days before using...See MoreCalamondin crisis -- slowly dropping leaves for months
Comments (11)Hi all, I'm happy to report that not long after I posted the pics of our calamondin in crisis, it started to bounce back and has been okay for the past couple of months. Trace and Serge, thanks for your questions and suggestions. We have not tried flushing the plant with copious amounts of water, and we haven't looked at the roots lately. Mainly for fear that pulling it out of the pot would just add stress to an already stressed plant. That was going to be the next thing we did, if it hadn't bounced back. I'm not entirely sure what stopped its decline, but here are a couple of things we started doing differently. First, we resumed the practice of adding a bit of vinegar with each watering. Second, we stopped misting the leaves. I may be way off base, but it seemed to me that the misting may have been the primary cause of its grief. Third, I took Steve's suggestion and ordered some Foliage Pro, which I've been adding every other week or so. But it should be noted that the leaf dropping and general decline stopped before the fertilizer arrived in the mail. So it seems safe to say that while the fertilizer is helping the plant -- the remaining leaves are a much deeper green and in general look healthier than they have in quite a while -- it seems that the leaf drop may have been the result of something other than nutrient deficiency alone. Maybe? In any case, the story has again taken a complicated turn in the past week or so: the plant has started to put out a flush of blossoms, which in some places is quite profuse. A few new leaves are also coming in, although unfortunately not nearly as many as there are new blossoms. At the same time, she has started to drop leaves once again. As I noted in my initial post, the leaf issues started in the first place after a similarly spectacular flush of blossoms several months ago. Is it possible that the plant is somehow putting too much energy into producing blossoms? In any case, should we pinch off some of the blossoms? Would that help generate more leaves? And I assume that during this phase of budding, fertilizer is particularly important? One final thing to note: From an original five trunks, the tree is now down to two. Does the death of entire trunks suggest that the (or at least a) problem may be in the root structure? Thanks in advance for any thoughts folks want to share. I'm adding a pic of the blossoms and of the trunks....See MoreNew Calamondin Question
Comments (5)Somehow, I don't think that I will be able to duplicate Florida weather in my bedroom in northern Illinois, but I do get your point about holding back on water and fertilizer. Last winter with my Bearss Lime, I watered it once a week, but never that much water that it ran out of the pot... and misted everyday which worked out well. I didn't fertilize the Bearss Lime at all during the 3 winter months. And it made it through the winter just fine. But I wasn't sure if that regimen would work for the calamondin as I read somewhere that calomondins are active all year in terms of flowering and bearing fruit. But I will follow your and Mike's advice... Both the Bearss Lime and calamondin are in clay pots. For soil, I use Miracle Grow Cactus, Palm and Citrus soil and blend in a generous amount of a fine orchid mix (not the big chunks) that I get at a local orchid nursery (Hausermanns) in the Chicago area. This has worked well with my Bearss Lime and hope to have the same results with the calamondin. Also forgot to mention that in addition to misting the plants twice a day, I also have a ceiling fan that I run for 3 or 4 hours just to circulate the air in the room a bit. It's already cold here. We had frost last night and a freeze in the upper 20s is predicted for tonight. So the struggle to get my citrus through another winter begins... Mike and Bill, thanks for the advice. Jerry...See MoreHELP! My calamondin tree is dying!
Comments (17)The soil your tree is in looks heavy and compacted. Roots do not get enough oxygen. Watering at a fixed shedule instead of only watering when the first one to two inch are dry is the next big problem. Also the post sits in a dish without raiser and I do not see how the water can drain freely. Since this plant was already re pottet and potting again would definitely kill it now, here is what I would do. Get a drill and make additional holes at the bottom sides of the pot. With a knitting needle aerate the soil (stick in the top and do gentle little swirl around to loosen the soil). Finally put something in the plate to raise the container up. Place in a warm and light spot. Careful with water as not too wet. Hope for the best. Maybe others here have different ideas....See MoreMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agocalamondindave
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoUser
7 years agoGreenLarry
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agocalamondindave
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agocory (Zone 7a, NJ)
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agojinnylea
7 years agoflagirl69
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoflagirl69
7 years agodevsense
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoorangelime1
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agocory (Zone 7a, NJ)
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoorangelime1
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoorangelime1
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoorangelime1
7 years agoSilica
7 years agoMonica bf N. Carolina zone 7B
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
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