Is it worth upgrading my 80CFM bath fan to 110CFM?
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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Fan with Humidity Sensor vs. Timer?
Comments (2)I prefer timers. How to set it up? I'll usually start with it set to run 20-30 minutes after the switch is turned off. If need be, it can be adjusted to a shorter or longer run time as required....See MoreNeed help with Options and Upgrades - what's worth the money?
Comments (11)Hard to say what makes sense for you. I can tell you what makes sense for me. I commented on each of the items you mentioned. Hope it helps. - Finished Basement $52,500 - I have no idea how much it would be to do this later. This is a lot of money, but may be worth it to do it now. - Upgrade to 10' ceiling height on main floor $9,500 (standard is 9' ceiling) - 10' are super nice (that's what we are going with in our build), but 9' are nice as well (that's what we have in current home). So if cost is an issue, skip this one. - Ground Floor Double Door Entrance $760 - matter of taste. I'd probably skip this one. - Garage door opener with one remote $740 each - I'd say that's imperative! How can you be without a remote for the garage?! - Keypad for garage door opener $150 each - Also a must in my opinion. - Rough-In 2nd Floor Alarm - All Windows and Doors $160 - I would also do this one. - Rough-In 2nd Floor Keypad $30 each - I would do one in the master bedroom (which we did in the old house and in the new build), because you want to be able to turn on the alarm without having to go downstairs in the middle of the night. - Reinforce ceiling fixture for future fan/fixture $150 each - nice value, but since I don't care for ceiling fans, it will depend on your preference. - Upgrade to 200 amp service $1,000 each (standard is 100 amp) - I have no idea. - Complete valance lighting c/w switch $750 each - also no idea - Wall sconce rough-in c/w switch $240 each - as opposed to what and where? - Wall sconce rough-in on mirror c/w switch $300 each - bathroom? What's there standard? - Exterior soffit potlights $450 each - your preference - Recessed shower light c/w switch $290 each - I would do this one. I hate dark showers. It makes no sense to have light just in the bathroom, and a dark tub/shower area after you close the curtain. In my city it is code to have a light in the shower or tub. - Smooth ceiling (2nd Floor throughout) $1,590 (first floor smooth ceiling comes standard) - good grief, do not allow popcorn ceiling (if that's the standard). Think about the cost to remove it and refinish it later. Yikes. - Upgrade from standard round column to square drywall column with trim to match house - half column $440 each - your personal taste - Upgrade to 10mm Frameless Shower Enclosure - M Ensuite $3,060 - very nice option, but it is a budget thing. - Upgrade from Bath Tub to Frameless Shower Enclosure - Ensuite #2 $1,850 would not do this. - Upgrade from Bath Tub to 10mm Frameless Shower Enclosure - Main Bath $1,850 - would not do this - Upgrade from 5' Bath Tub to 5' Shower (no door) $1,400 - I'd keep the bath tub and the shower separate in the master suite. If this is in the other bathroom, I would keep the bath/shower combo. - Extra sink and single lever faucet in ensuite $725 each - double sinks is a must in the master. Trust me. - Whirlpool Upgrade in lieu of Corner or Oval Tub - 8 Jets $1,475 each - how much do you really think you would the whirlpool? Cleaning of each jet in there, think about it. I would not do this, but it depends on your preference. - Waterline for ice-maker $250 each - to the fridge? It's a must. - Upgrade Kitchen exhaust fan vent to 8" vent $470 - I have no idea - Rough-in gas line for BBQ/pool $665 each - do you BBQ? - Rough-in gas line for stove/range $665 each - what is standard, electric? What kind of cooktop do you want? If it is induction, check the volt/ampere needed for that, and make sure they install the correct one. I added a 60 amp one on mine. - Additional standard fireplace - 1st floor $4,450 - where would that be? Is one enough? - Additional standard fireplace - 2nd floor $4,800 - would not do it, but I live in Texas, not Canada..... - Blower heater fan $620 each - no idea - Fireplace remote control $250 each - not sure it's necessary....See MoreDo I Have to Rip out the Ceiling to Upgrade my Range Hood?
Comments (11)We installed a similar vent-a-hood (48" with 900 cfm triple blower fan), and you will definitely need to do some work on your ceiling. We installed in a 1 story house, and we were using the vent-a-hood liner, not the stand-alone housing. They built a decorative plenum above the range (cathedral ceiling) and recessed the hood liner up into the plenum. The ducting then connected straight up to a vent through the attic and to the roof. I believe that the unit you picked is actually two 600 cfm dual fans that each require an 8 inch duct. You can then use a duct combiner (about 17" tall) to bring them together into a single 12" duct. The centerline of each 8" duct is about 11" away from the centerline of the hood. Do you plan to build any type of decorative plenum/trim above the hood to get the hood to the correct height over the range? If so, that could give you some working room for ducting options. The option I am considering is whether you could use two 8" ducts, but jog one over so you could run them between two adjacent floor joists or one above the other (hidden by a plenum). It still requires removing quite a bit of ceiling, but will fit well with typical joist spacing. The other choice is to run each 8" duct a different direction along the joist, but you will probably run into a load bearing wall in one of the directions. The other option is to look at the floor above to see if you could route the 12" duct (or two 8" ducts) vertically. If you could grab space from a closet or the corner of a room, you could run the duct(s) straight up and out the roof. The code requirement for make-up air when a fan moves more than 450 cfm is a relatively new requirement. If your city follows code, you will have an added expense for an automatic make-up air vent that opens when you run the exhaust. However, I installed a 600 cfm fan during renovation of my current house in 2014 and the inspector never even mentioned make-up air, so YMMV. Removing and replacing sheetrock ceilings is messy, and looks bad when its out, but its really very straightforward construction work that does not require a licensed professional. I would not get very concerned about how much ceiling has to come out. Bruce...See MoreI need a bath exhaust fan/light. Please select one for me.
Comments (26)Lkplatow - Thanks for the feedback. I did look at can light/fan combos but the CFMs seemed to only hit about 70 which is lower than I should go with. Do you happen to know what the kelvin temp of the pinkish bulb was? Alex - I did see that about the 20 amp circuit. I'm assuming that's not typical and is something that needs added. The bathroom switches are GFCI. I don't know how relevant that is. After talking with DH I think we're going to pass on the heater. He runs on the warm side so he's not excited about it. I'm not a morning person and I like sleeping in a cold room but dislike dragging myself out of bed in the cold I was joking I might just fall back asleep in the bathroom if we get a heater. :) I want the fan on a timer and he can't understand why it's necessary. Scargoz - The mold was on the window and a tiny bit on the upper wall/ceiling area. It's from moisture just hanging out and not being vented out. I'm going to try the paper thing out of curiosity now. It certainly makes noise but I can't imagine it's sucking air real well. Main bath I think I'm going to pick the NuTone AN110L. (fan/light) build.com/nutone-an110l Master bath I'm leaning toward the Panasonic WhisperFit EZ FV-0811VFL5. (fan/light/night light) If I go with the WhisperFit I guess I'd have the fan and light put on a double switch then the night light and vanity would be on separate switches. build.com/panasonic-fv-08-11vfl5-whisperfit There's also NuTone RN110L I think I'll throw back in the running for the master bath. Also has fan/light/night light. build.com/nutone-rn110l Specs for the NuTone RN110L mention "QStreamTM Sound Technology • Airflow-smoothing baffles reduce turbulence QFlowTM Damper Technology • When fan is on, damper position in the airstream is minimized to reduce static pressure and noise • When fan is off, damper provides a tight seal to prevent back drafts" Panasonic doesn't mention anything like that but maybe it's all marketing heehaw anyhow. As for noise our current fans are supposedly 2.5 sones and I honestly don't mind the noise but you can't hear much of anything else on the other side of the door if you're the one in the bathroom. All the fans I'm looking at should seem quiet in comparison. I think 1.3 is the highest....See More- 7 years ago
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