Sorry, but I don't think your shared photos work that way here; I wasn't able to open them. You may wish to read up around here on Peace Lily care (Spathyphyllum). I don't get the signifance of 'exactly' one glass of water. Maybe you don't realize a glass of water could be a 4 oz glass or a 12 oz glass & that's a big difference btwn the 2, so I can't tell how much you're watering. I'd forget the misting completely, sounds like you're already overwatering (every 3/4 days you said) & misting, that's likely to be too much. I'd imagine if you get your mix & watering right, you won't need any misting at all. Sorry I can't see what things look like.

You would probably get more answers if you posted this separately, but I'll try to help if I can. First, you need to figure out why the leaves are turning yellow and brown. Peace lilies don't like constant wet soil, or dry soil, you have th find a happy medium since this plant like evenly semi moist soil at all times. A couple things to keep in mind. The pot should only be an inch larger than the root-ball, they like to be snug in their pot like many indoor plant do. Need for a good draining soil is essential. I like to add "Perlite" to the soil which helps with drainage. It can be found at any of the box stores like Lowe's. The leaves can burn in direct sun, keep it where it gets bright light, but no direct hot sun. When the top inch of the soil starts to feel close to dry, water the soil thoroughly spilling out any excess water out of the saucer. As far as fertilizing, use only half strength or less, too much can cause the roots to burn. Billy Rae

Usually, PLs are divided instead of repotted, but either can be done. First, your tree is not going to die if you can purge your thought process of the idea wilting means the plant needs more water. Have faith in the idea that plants in a damp/moist medium will always be able to take up water more efficiently than plants in a wet/soggy medium. The recovery will take 1 of 3 paths. 1) New growth will stop and the leaves will remain in a wilted condition for a period of time until enough new roots are generated to meet the top's moisture needs, Soon after the plant regains turgidity (stops wilting) it will resume growth. 2) Many leaves will die due to the fact a lesser volume of roots isn't going to be able to meet the moisture demands of the pot, which will cause the plant to literally wall off the leaves to prevent further moisture loss, or 3) you could remove at least half of the existing leaves to easy the o/a demand for water. If you do that, concentrate on removing the oldest leaves. If you look very carefully. You'll see the younger leaves are attached to the crown above or closer to the center than attachment point of older leaves. Resume fertilizing when you see the plant pushing new growth. Al

Anthuriums are epiphytic (meaning they grow up in the canopies of the rainforests on the sides of trees), just like orchids, and they grow in the same habitats as orchids as well. Tho they can adapt to growing in a fast draining soil mixture that's blended with orchid bark, perlite, and charcoal. They are closely related to Peace lilies. Peace lilies also prefer a fast draining soil mixture that doesn't stay soggy either. So as long as the roots can breathe and have access to plenty of oxygen, you'll never have to worry about "overwatering" them. Both of these plants live in the rainforests, where they can get rained on on an almost daily basis. So they're no strangers to water. It's a common misconception that overwatering a plant is about giving them too much water, when it's not. It's when the soil mix holds on to too much water, cutting off the supply of fresh air to your plants' roots, causing them to suffocate. For my plants, I don't ever let them dry out. But I also use a proper soil mix that doesn't hold on to too much water either, no matter how much I water them. With it being wintertime, I don't water them as often as I do throughout the rest of the year. I have a similar sized plastic bucket that I sit my plants in and fill it up to the soil line with water, and I let them soak for about half an hour. Then I'll remove the pots and let the excess water drain away. You notice how the runoff will have a slightly brownish tinge to it from all of the dissolved solids in it. That's when I'll flush the pot out with some fresh water, until it starts to run out clear from the bottom. This helps to get rid of any excess mineral deposits and fertilizers that would otherwise buildup in the soil over time. These plants come from the rainforest, and they absolutely love water. But they also need for their roots to breathe as well. And I don't worry about spraying them either. They'll do just fine without it. Here's a couple of links to the Exotic Rainforest's website for properly caring for these plants. It offers a wealth of accurate information on these wonderful plants: Caring for Spathiphyllum & Growing the Tropical Anthurium As for the old spathes, you can just let them naturally die back completely on their own. They don't expend energy from doing this. In fact, letting them die back on their own gives them a chance to reabsorb any nutrients and/or chlorophyll from the spathes, which they can reuse in other areas of the plants. This is why they turn yellow beforehand. Once the old spathes have completely turned brown, they'll easily separate from the plant when you go to gently pull on them. This is no different than when the leaves of deciduous trees change color before the trees shed them in Autumn. Because they're reabsorbing all of the nutrients and green chlorophyll to reuse again in the Spring, rather than having to make them from scratch all over again.