All LVP is actually waterproof. It's a very solid option for basement flooring because of this. That being said though, remember that you should never leave water sitting on your flooring, whatever that flooring, for weeks on end. The water won't damage you LVP, but it will eventually seep through to the bottom floor and gradually cause damage and become a huge insurance problem. You can measure against this though with the installation of a moisture trap depending on your situation. Another thing about LVP, is the option of ER or Embossed in Register. With ER, the texture of the plank matches up perfectly with the register or the original graphic. This means that every grain is captured in detail, including wood knots. An advantage of this is increased surface area so it protects against slipperiness and you from falling. Here's the main link I used to learn about ER and LVP if you'd like more information. I hope this helps!: https://www.reallycheapfloors.com/blog/the-best-flooring-for-basements/

what is the ambient temperature of the surrounding room? The assumption is that since it's in your basement, your floor above will be in a heated room - do you heat your basement too? Is your basement entirely subterranean or do you have 3 ft windows in it like mine? If you are entirely subterranean, and your ground temp is OK. you may not have to insulate the floor. Remember that it can be a heat sink and insulating it can actually raise the temp of the interior space. If your configuration is like I described, you need most insullation on the ceiling. The vibrations from your dishwasher won't be a problem anyhow - the dishwasher is above and it's hard to imagine how it would shake the floor of the wine cellar. I simply have the same concrete floor as the rest of the basement. My cellar is for storage, so I just wanted it to be functional. It's about the same size as you describe. Vapor barriers can be something to think about. If you have a large difference in temp between your cellar and the surrounding space, you can get condensation. in an unheated basement, the problem is more likely against the ceiling than the walls, but each place is different. Generally you put the vapor barrier against the warm side, but that's not a brilliant idea for a ceiling, especially if your joists and flooring is wood, which is probably the case. I don't understand your question about paint. What is your concern? Also, remember that greenboard doesn't really insulate all that well. I was worried about flooding in the basement even though we've never had any, so I used wonderboard, or cement board, like you would use for a bathroom. I also have six inch walls so I could put a lot of insullation in, and I built my own door which is also six inches. If you use extruded polystyrene, you get the maximum insulation per square inch. Thermax, which has foil on one or both sides, is slightly better but deteriorates over time and there is some literature about toxins, so rather than worry about any of that, I just used polystyrene. I also built my own wine racks. If you use individual racking, you lose a lot of space to air, but that is the most convenient for looking at your bottles. If you use some kind of bin, Rhone shaped bottles and anything that's slightly weird can be a real pain to stack. So I made shelves. A Bordeaux bottle is 3" diameter, a Burgundy bottle is about 3 1/4", but some of the Rhones are a little larger and things like Turley, or Champagne, or some Beaujolais, are even larger. So I made shelves spaced at 3 1/2 inches, with a few at the bottom that are 4" and the top which is about 5" for anything weird. That was the compromise that allowed me to get the maximum bottles with the least amount of lost space. Bins are better but as I said, a pain. I did one wall with bins and probably wouldn't do that again. For cooling, you have a lot of options. You can do a split system. You can get a Whisperkool or Breezeaire or something similar. But remember, those coolers are simply air conditioners. AC units don't go down below 65 or so because they'll ice up. So the compressors are sized slightly differently and the evaporation coils are sized slightly differently than the wine chiller units. If you got your AC to go to 60 or below, you wouldn't have adequate evaporation. So what to do? Get a larger unit. The smallest room AC is about 3000 BTU, or 5000 BTU, which is far more than you need to get that small room cool. If you trick it, you can get it to cool to the 50s or so and you're in good shape. I just bought a $99 Samsung and the temp is around 59 - 62 degrees F. You can pull the thermostat wire thru the grill, which gets you about 5 degrees right there, and you can tape a small resistor to it that gets you another few degrees, and you spent $99 for a cooling system that works fine. I'm not going to get into an engineering description of cooling systems, but people modify big ACs for meat lockers if they're hunters, and it actually works pretty good for a wine cellar. But a spare in case you burn it out and use the savings for more wine.

We ended up getting a quote for the PGT 5400 Energy Vue line as well. It really comes down to the Simonton 9800 w/ laminated glass and the PGT. Slight nod to the PGT for the installation. The price difference is 6.84% more for the Simonton. Simonton's warranty is better by far, mainly because the installer matches the manufacturer for the labor warranty. Thus, if we go with the Simontons, we have a 25+ year parts AND labor warranty. PGT is only 1 year labor but a good parts warranty. Simonton also comes with a lifetime glass breakage (due to the laminated glass). Simonton offers dual sliders (I think that's the term, where you can open the slider either way) while PGT's only open one way (the equivalent of single hung). Thus PGT's air infiltration numbers are substantially lower (.02 vs. .13). SHGC are virtually the same at .21 and .22. The SoftLite's came in significantly more expensive (50%). We really liked the Alside installer, but aren't sure of the product, so we eliminated them.

Cork floating floor + 6mm cork underlay = 20 dB worth of sound absorption. And I would argue that a floor that absorbs sound will reduce noise transfer "up". Cork "eats" airborne noise. The airborne noise is the stuff that goes "up" into a ceiling or down a hallway or up a set of stairs or through a bedroom door. If you kill the airborne noise, you kill the transfer to the other areas. It is that simple. I've had hundreds of people use cork floating flooring in basements (no issue with mold...because you need a vapour barrier = same as a vinyl or laminate floating floor) and they have all been ASTOUNDED by how QUIET the space becomes. And they also comment on how much the cork reduces the noise from transferring 'up'. Vinyl flooring = non-absorptive. The mass-loaded vinyl (underpad) is the stuff that reduces noise...but it will be as expensive as the vinyl floor itself. If they can't afford a polished concrete floor (starts at $5/sf) then they are going to have a VERY hard time finding absorptive material. An acoustic "retrofit" is one of the MOST EXPENSIVE projects we have in the building industry. I estimate an acoustic retrofit to be $10/sf. If you can get it BELOW $6/sf, you are LAUGHING!!! iCork Floor has cork floating floors on sale for $1.99/sf. The 6mm cork underlay (which does 80% of the acoustic work) is $0.66/sf. For $2.65/sf + labor, you will have created an acoustically insulated space. Even if your labor is the same cost...for less than $5.50/sf, you will be LESS than the BEST priced acoustic retrofit. Not something to sneeze at! https://www.icorkfloor.com/store/product-category/thickness/floating-cork-flooring-10mm/ https://www.icorkfloor.com/store/floor-underlayment-cork-6mm/ Yes. The Golden Beach isn't the prettiest thing on earth...but it is just as effective as the rest. The 10mm Desert Arable is very pretty at $2.69/sf...it is still an acoustic option for low-budget clients. The acoustic requirement with a low budget client is what will kill this project. It is either budget friendly or noise-friendly. I won't be both. Better let them down gently. And feel free to mention the $10/sf cost for an acoustic retrofit at a later date. That will be the part that will encourage them to open up the wallet a little bit more to get a cork floor installed - with cork underlay.