I'm still working on things:-) Here is the painted window so far: I also have started working on this window. I nailed the picket planter to the window and hope to find some small shutters. It needs another coat of paint. I think I will just use fake flowers in this planter: I can't finish the metal bed until it's ready to place in the garden, have to wait for winter to end:-) I have been painting the bed spindles with the same color I painted spindles to make garden tools to hang from the side of the bed. Got that idea from a poster here who made the tools hanging from a old rake:-) Thanks for that idea!! Also in the picture are 2 insulators that I'm making into hanging candle holders. I need to find something to put on the wire to jazz them up:-) The other white spindle holds a sign that says 'This Way To Mom's Garden". It needs to be painted with another color.

Just got this response from Faron and thought others might want to see it, too. Thanks, Faron! If existing paint is still well-adhered, sand with 100-grit paper (or a sanding-sponge) so the surface has some "tooth". Remove ALL dust...then prime & paint. For your topcoats, use 100% Acrylic Exterior paint. I'd use at least a Satin or Semi-gloss for trims. I'd use a top-notch Latex primer as well. Oils just keep getting more brittle over time. If you had a lot of bare wood, then an Oil primer is justified, but use Latex topcoats. Faron

@D.L. Thanks for the advice. I did add windows to the left side of the house. I will do what can be done to stagger them from the neighbor's windows. I will use obfuscating glass for the bathrooms, but clear glass for Bedroom B. I had thought about clerestory windows, skylights and solar tubes for adding light but did not incorporate any of those ideas. Now that you bring it up I will look at where I can add clerestory windows. However, I have concerns regarding leakage from and cleaning of skylights. And I have heard that solar tube lighting can be harsh?? I am still thinking about how best to address the kitchen storage issue. I will look into your suggestions and play around with moving walls and the refrigerator. Maybe I am focused on the wrong thing but I am used to seeing kitchens with upper cabinets. I think it would look odd to have a kitchen that size with 9' ceilings and no upper cabinets. Once I have the rooms in the right place and about the right size I will post in the room specific forums to nail down the details. I was going to go a different route with the drop zone and buy or build 4 cabinets that would line up perpendicular to the garage door wall. That would provide a little separation/definition of the Cafe and Sun room areas. I would like to have a formal entrance but I don't think there is enough space if the doors are centered. That is why I pushed it to a corner. Later we could add a half wall and a column or two [or whatever] to create a small vestibule, if we felt like we just had to have a formal entrance. With respect to centering the dining room doors, I was trying to achieve what @yellowducky is proposing without having to add more hall space. By having the doors offset to the right and the table pushed left I was hoping to create an implied aisle way. Obviously, I need to rethink it. Finally, I agree with you. If I had unlimited amounts of money to spend I would hire an architect, and a Girl Friday, and a Body Guard, and a Personal Trainer, etc. :) @lori_inthenw_gw Point taken. @yellowducky I totally agree with you about the stairs. I originally had them orientated that way but I was concerned about the head room at the top of the stairs due to the slope of the roof. Also having them orientated the way you suggest requires a hallway running from the end of the top of the stairs back to the Master Bedroom wall. I will do the calculations to see if there is enough headroom. I will also work on the other items you point out. My square footage goal is more than 3000 but less than 4100, excluding garage. Maximum of 3000 on the first level.

Wow, I like your bravery. I was lucky enough to be raised by gardening parents and grandparents, so I had the headstart of absorbing their knowledge as I grew up. Search the web for a used copy of a book called "Crockett's Victory Garden" He was from Boston -- very similar climate -- and did a PBS television show, and did a book each on flowers, vegetables, and houseplants. Full of practical advice from a lifetime gardener, long since dead. Some notes for next year. Peat pots: ignore the manufacturer's proud claim that you can set them right in the ground. It causes plants to get root bound and prevents them from flourishing. If the roots have grown through by the time you plant them, carefully pull away the peat anyway. The disruption will prevent the plants from getting root bound in the ground. When they start growing new leaves, it means the plants have settled in. If you unpot a plant from the garden center and can see roots all around the root ball, slash through these roots vertically and pull away the severed pieces of root (same on bottom side). This will allow new growth out into the surrounding soil. A trick with tomatoes: Most people don't know they can grow roots from their stems. If you start them indoors and they get long and leggy, replant them deeper with half of their stem buried. If they are still too tall and the weather still too cold, cut to tops off milk cartons (and punch a drainage hole in the bottom) and bury the stems in those. When they go into the ground, you can even lay them on their side and gently bend so only the top four or five inches are above the soil. This will give a large root system that will help them endure dry spells. A trick with long season plants (like cantaloupe): buy seedlings, and plant in dark colored containers that retain heat. They are from a hot climate, and the dark container will warm the soil, especially in the cool shoulder seasons, and that will make them happier. Mediterranean herbs: These need a Mediterranean micro climate. Find fast-draining bagged soil mix meant for cactus, succulents and palm trees. It may be in a specialty corner in your garden center, with houseplants. Use this soil in terra cotta or other earthen pots, (never in glazed or plastic pots, as these hold too much moisture). Give them all the sun you can, but be careful not to let them go completely dry in hot dry spells. This treatment will succeed with rosemary, thyme, oregano, sweet marjoram, nepatela (a.k.a. cat mint, not cat nip), chives, lavender, and you can also do this with nasturtiums if you grow those for salads. When I lived in Maine, I used 1-foot wide pots with three rosemary plants each in a south window all winter. In spring I set them in the ground and used them for cooking, while I got new plants for the pots, nursed them along on the doorstep. In fall I brought in the pots, and let go of the ones in the ground (but coastal Maine they lasted almost to Thanksgiving). Depending on our windowsill space and your favorites, you can try this with any of those herbs, but lavender will not cooperate. Not all herbs are Mediterranean. Basil originated in southern India, and flourishes in heavy soil and hot humid weather. Dill and tarragon and mint and cilantro are from cooler climates and flourish in the milder part of year, and dill and cilantro go to seed as soon as the weather turns hot. Most of these do fine in plastic pots that hold more moisture. Mint is almost a marsh or stream plant, so it likes a lot of sun and a lot of water. Lay plank walkways between your rows to prevent soil compaction. Cultivate to keep weeds at bay (a claw with a five-foot handle will save your back). If you skimmed the sod, the grass likely will come back. If weeds become a problem, you can start a new season by covering the garden with black plastic, and cutting out planting holes in it. Laying plank walkways over it to keep it from blowing away. The two most space-intensive crops are peas and corn. And corn is a massive nutrient hog, a waste of space for a single ear per massive plant. If you must have peas, snow peas will give you much more food for the room they take up, but need to be planted as soon as the soil is thawed. Corn (and a lot of other vegetables) are the reverse: if they are planted in cool soil, their growth will be permanently stunted for the entire season. No kidding; my father did a controlled experiment with corn and beans and learned this not something to rush no matter how anxious you are. If you have trouble with big tomatoes, try cherry tomatoes in a future year. i've moved from Maine to the Sonoran Desert, so now I am a beginner again for the first time since I was ten (and that was fifty years ago!). I grow lots of herbs, but don't even attempt any vegetables except peppers. They have a long season requirement, so try them in dark containers too. Good luck. You are at the start of a great adventure that is guaranteed to have some failures and setbacks along with the little triumphs that keep us at it!