Brand New Gardener. Seeking advice. Questions within.
TheNorthernmost Byrnes
8 years ago
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callirhoe123
8 years agoTheNorthernmost Byrnes
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Newby seeks roof top gardening advice
Comments (7)You can grow pretty much anything with the right setup. I grow most everything hydroponically, though most people would never guess that because I use what would be called a non-recirculating "to waste" system. But that's a fancy way of saying I water plants in pots with fertilizer water, just like everyone else. If you use Al's gritty mix and fertigating you are growing hydroponically. It doesn't have to be a complex recirculating setup. What is important is that the plants are getting their nutrients primarily from the irrigation water. Those recirculating systems get used when people are very concerned about the cost of fertilizer and water. That's generally not that big of a deal for a hobbyist, but when it's a business it sure is. There are people growing all sorts of stuff from lettuce in 2liter bottles of solution (Kratky system) to Disneyland growing 30' rubber trees and bedding plants in huge concrete planrers filled with gravel (essentially Missouri Gravel Bed). I have done a wick based system with perlite and sand. That particular medium and wick combination held way too much water. But I don't see why you couldn't get some kind of self watering thing to work. I am over the whole self watering container thing. I could never get them to behave exactly the way I wanted. On the other hand, timers, valves, and mains water allow for a lot of adjustment. I live on a steep hillside with lots of stairs. I don't like schlepping compost up and down those steps, but I do it because the soil needs organic matter. When the organic potting soil is spent, I can just dump it in the garden and it's not a big deal. However, I have a lot of my propagation stock in gravel, so that I can reuse it without dealing with the stairs. I know if I were gardening on a roof, I would want to minimize hauling medium. I would probably use pumice and calcined clay ( or better yet Axis (diatomaceous earth)). And if you're an engineer, a fun project is making a irrigation controller out of an Arduino, a relay board, and a 24v transformer....See MoreNovice seeking advice on Corner Garden
Comments (19)Ok, First of all, don't worry. if you don't mind a little more hard work this can be salvaged. 2nd: remove the brick and re-grade until level. I would then re do the bed line curving from the sidewalk in a semi-circle in reverse of the current circle and then wrap the bed line around the tree by at least 4 ft. Taper the bed along the areas that it comes in contact with the driveway and sidewalk 3 inches is good. This will help hold mulch. Then I would re install the garden wall in a semi-circle similar to what you had. this time dig a trench and fill with slag sand and tamp it and level it. This will help keep the wall stable. I would't go more tha 2 high. Keepthe garden wall at least 2 ft from the cement surfaces. Then you can backfill the wall tapering the soil twords the front of the bed line. Do not use plastic under mulch it will just blow of the plastic. It does not stop weeds and prevents water from gettting to deeper roots. Lay the mulch over the top of the soil. A double shredded or aged hard wood mulch will work best. 3" coverage will keep most weeds at bay for the summer. Those that do pop up will usually pull out easily. I usually do not use the plastic edging as it never stays in the ground. Just mulch up to the edge where you cut out the bed line. You will have to re cut the edge every year but it will be easier than digging in the edging every year. As for planting. it depends on sunlight and soil conditions. I would need more info. to help you there....See MoreBrand New Gardener - Questions
Comments (10)what Farsided has described is a form of lasagna gardening. Composting if you will on the site you wish to use as a garden bed. I do agree that in some cases herbicides can be persistent however in my experience I haven't encountered any such issues. I have used bagged compost for many years now. I prefer very aged compost to ensure there are no weed seeds that would grow. I do recall horror stories of people spreading fresh manure/hay mixes in their yards to find that they;d be dealing with lots and lots of weeds. You see, whatever seeds the animal digests and passes thru its guts, will come out and still be viable. Composting kills off those germinating seeds. When using hay/manure from barns etc.. you need to set those aside to a pile to compost further. Usually it takes a full year to be absolutely certain these are safe. (it may be of interest to know that even herbicides and pesticides have been known to pass thru the guts of the animal and still affect the plants that will receive this manure. ) If you do use barn manure/hay mix directly on garden beds beware that that fresh manure can burn plants. It is particularly useful when you wish to establish brand new beds and want to kill off existing grass. Plus,topping with cardboards could suppress any new weeds growing from beneath(including those weed seeds), but putting manure/hay mix, on top the cardboard will not stop the weeds from growing. The new weeds may not be able to penetrate the cardboard to reach the soil beneath but it will still look unsightly. I have already seen someone do this and eventually those weeds did take over because by the time these died out, they've already spread more seeds. So lots of ways to go about it. Just some caution on using barn manure/hay mixes. I'm not against it, but just to let you know that it does need to be composted further. However, it's is a great idea to use the carboard method to create new garden beds. Less digging, and carboards eventually break down and add to the soil. This is why for established garden beds you should only use well composted manure which has broken down perhaps the good of a full year. Otherwise you'd be dealing with weed seeds and hay seeds spread out all over your yard. By covering up the manure with a thick layer of carboard, you would have suppressed any of these potential weed seedlings. But I would disagree with topping off the cardboard with old spoiled hay and manure -- unless you know that mixture has become well composted. If you choose this method, top it instead with aged wood mulch because fresh wood mulch would rob the soil of nitrogen...See Morenew to forum -- seeking conifer advice
Comments (3)Hello, the pics are great. You have a beautiful yard and landscape. Im not sure what part of NC you are in, because, the types of conifers you can grow varies greatly. I am no plant scientist but I enjoy testing and trying out different plants. IÂm in 7b, although I have never seen a 7b year , it has been more like 8a since I have been testing out conifers. I have been testing out conifers for about 5 ½ years. I have a clay on the south side and sand on the northside. I donÂt know much about deer resistance, but I know I have deer and none of my conifers have ever gotten destroyed. There is enough other stuff for them. Here are observations on some plants that might work for your specifications If you are near by Raleigh email me if you want stop and see any of the trees. They are all 5 years old or less. Abies firma  excellent success. Grown about 5 feet in 4 years. Might be a little big for your needs. Mine is planted in heavy clay and does very well. Calocedrus decurrens - Incense Cedar are supposed to grow very well in NC. I had a ÂBerrimma Gold and it lasted only 2 years. Cedrus atlantica 'Sahara Ice  Not as blue as my glauca, but Just as maintenance free. Cedrus deodora  I have 6 or 7 dwarf varieties . never had a problem with any of them, only the occasional attack from the Pine Saw Fly. I have only lost one, I believe a Âdescanzo dwarf Cedrus libani 'Beacon Hill'  grows in bizarre directions. Excellent success in the 3 years it has been in the ground. Cephalotaxus harringtonia 'Fastigiata'  real nice columnar form, dark green, handles shade, deer resistant Cephalotaxus harringtonia 'Korean Gold The gold form and surprisingly has held up well with no summer burn in NC heat Cephalotaxus fortunei  fast grower to about 15 ft with longer leaves, no issues in 2 years. Chamaecyparis - As far as these go I have moderate success with pisifera and obtusa and nootkensis(moved to a new family) The best performers are Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Fernspray Gold'  big flattened sprays of gold foliage, has performed the best out of any obtuse for me. Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Boulevard'  performs well but tends too look brown and bad in late winter. Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Green Arrow'  tried this super columnar for a couple years in clay, It has survived but nothing spectacular yet. Supposedly 20 by 5 Cryptomeria japonica  All of them perform real well. I like Knaptonensis with the white tips, sekkan sugi, cockscomb, spiralis falcate. I have a few that donÂt bronze in the winter, but I have to look up which cultivars. Cunninghamia unicanaliculata  got to be one of my favorite plants, very fast growth rate so far. Powdery blue in summer and turns purplish in the winter. I get more questions on this plant than any other. Cupressus arizonica ÂGolden Pyramid - Very fast grower, keeps color all year, very bright yellow. Not sure of ultimate height but will probably be large. Juniperus rigida 'Pendula'  very picturesque, pointed needled weeping juniper. I have killed one of mine, but the other is ok so far. Juniperus Virginia ÂBrodie quick growing more compact form of native. Picea asperata  I have 3(asperata, asperataÂPendula and asperataÂCompacta all grown in sand in full sun. Very very slow growth. None are more than a foot tall, but have had no problems with heat. Picea abies ÂBirdÂs Nest small dwarf in full sun, gets burned bad in summer sun, but survives. Picea abies 'Cupressina' is a columnar form of Norway Spruce. I have had mine in the ground for a year, northside , sun, sand and didnÂt show any stress over the past summer. Picea pungens ÂIseli Foxtail survived 2 summers, and faired quite well, light blue, slow growth. Should be a large tree in about 100 years. Pinus bungeana  another of my favorites, beautiful bark, and my dwarf form tree has withstood the NC heat just as good as any native. Pinus parviflora 'Adcock's Dwarf'  very nice dwarf which has done very well so far for me Pinus strobus 'Blue Shag'  done ok, it seems to take a little abuse in the summer but it survives and is an attractive plant Pinus virginiana 'Wate's Golden'  virginiana seems hit or miss for me here in NC. I have a small wates golden that does have nice winter color. Evenbtually a large tree, but I am told can withstand pruning. Pinus wallichiana 'Nana'  first year in the gorund but has seemed to due well for me. Platycladus orientalis  browns in the winter Podocarpus chinensis  supposedly hardier than Maki, I have mine protected from north winds but it has crusied through the winters so far. Psuedolarix amablis  deciduous conifer , supposedly a very slow grower but mine has grown very quickly in its first few years. The fall color is excellent. The Japanese beetles seem to favor this tree, though Psuedotsuga chinensis  doesnÂt look like the typical Douglas fir , but has handled the nc heat with no problem for 3 summers. Sequoia sempervirens  I have a kellyÂs prostrate which is definitely a spreader, I have noticed a little winter dieback on mine. Taiwania cryptomerioides - I have killed one already , but the second tree is growing nicely after a couple years. Havent seen a central leader yet Taxodium distichum ÂPeve Minaret Yellow - havenÂt had in the ground for long but it is a yellow foliage dwarf Taxus chinensis  I cant tell the difference between this and othet taxuses but this is the only one to survive and survive very well, it bronzes in the winter for me. Thujopsis dolobrata  another favorite which has grown well in partial shade in a protected area for me. I got a central leader in about 4 years. Tsuga candensis  I have killed a few, but I keep on trying. I have had luck with the dwarf forms, but the plants look far from spectacular Tsuga sieboldii  supposedly more heat tolerant and disease resistant, but I have killed 2 in 2 tries. I do a a dwarf globe doing well though....See Morecallirhoe123
8 years agoTheNorthernmost Byrnes
8 years agocallirhoe123
8 years agoTheNorthernmost Byrnes
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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