In the master bedroom, I have beige marble saturnia. I understand what you are saying, but I really don't think a clear/blueish translucent glass in the shower, and then the 2nd backsplash I linked for the wall behind the vanity (not the electric blue one) wouldn't work with the beige porcelain. I mean the beige color is a neutral color, I will then have expresso as the vanity color, similar glass to the subway tile glass on the vanity top and the vessel bowls, so not sure why the beige porcleain wouldnt work? It would blend well with the master bedroom floor and I would imagine it would just provide a neutral color. I think if I go with a pure gray it will be too dark and dreary. I just hope whatever floor I pick that the contractor does it with 1/8" grout lines with a grout color that matches very well. I hope the contractor doesnt give me a hard time about the 1/8" grout lines and a hard time when I ask for it to be a diagonal layout. I am going to do 18"x18". To Tina, I agree, I dont think a border will be necessary in the shower, I just didnt know if it was "too much" glass all in one area and needed to be broken up. But I looked online and many subway glass showers have no border. In terms of metal finish, you mean like on the vanity and shower? Well the vanity doesnt give me any other option but chrome, and I was going to get this shower panel: Shower panel

Kevin, it really took me by surprise when I scrolled down! The treatment is beautiful and I think stands up well with the other strong elements in your room, including your cat ;) In particular I think it is a good fit with your vanity in style and substance. Now the real test is ... do you find yourself laying in the tub gazing up at it lost in thoughtful admiration?

"1st question, since I have bought CBU for the walls but all the how-tos for kerdi have them using it on sheet rock. Im still leaning toward CBU, but figured it was worth asking. " Good instincts to use CBU. For several reasons I recommend you stick with stick with the CBU. Here's a Kerdi over CBU ditty, it might help if you've never used Kerdi before. 2) "2 The ceiling in the shower. Initially, i was going to tile the ceiling, but my wife thinks it would look like a cave...I had several people suggest to me PVC Beadboard. Any other thoughts? " If a beadboard ceiling will fit the style, you can go in that direction. If you want beadboard but want to avoid the sterile look of PVC, how about teak beadboard? Or a teak plank ceiling. Wood can go well with marble/travertine. Then you can always fake wood on the ceiling with wood-look tile. Or go for a lighter look with glass tile on the ceiling, though plain glass can look cold and modern. Of those I listed, I'd consider teak boards. Natural stone and a natural wood? Why not? 3) L/1100 is plenty good for travertine. But you have to consider deflection in two directions; deflection along the length of the joist (your L/1100), and the often overlooked across deflection fo the plywood that spans the joist bays, in your case, across the 19.2" space between the joists. I recommend you consider two layers of plywood (3/4" subfloor and then 1/2" underlayment if able. If not 1/2", then 3/8" minimum. Ditra (or equivalent) over that. Then tile. Large format travertine demands a protective floor beneath it. 4) Your last photo shows a 1/4" thick to 3/4" thick sloped bed of "sandmortar and membrane". I presume "sandmortar" is deck mud? Mud generally requires a 1-1/4" thickness at the drain. You can go thinner, some guys ust an admix and go 1", some push hard to 3/4" thick. . But going to 1/4" thick, it may not provide a durable base to the shower; cracks, etc. Deck mud just doesn't have any structural integrity when placed that thin. Have you considered QuickSlope or one if its derivatives to establish your slope. I mention QS because it pretty much feathers down to nothing. I think it's an 1/8" thick at the drain end, it's honeycomb structure gives the bed structural integrity. which fits your low-profile requirements. Going hybrid? It can be done. But I generally recommend staying within a company's product line and avoiding "hybrid showers" unless the hybrid version has been warranted, ie, Laticrete's Hydroban membrane with Schluter's Kerdi Drain. Enough for now. Got to go. I'll try to check in tomorrow...Oh, and I'm glad I didn't have to do that drywall. Fun fun fun!!

A realtor told me that a light bathroom update will give you a better return than a gut job. Buyers will see a fresh, clean and bright bathroom without thinking “we’ve got to update this.” We kept our vanities in all 3 bathroom projects because the boxes were strong and there was no reason to demolish them. But the doors were in bad shape. So we had a local cabinet builder make us new doors and drawer fronts. Each bathroom got new doors and drawer fronts, sink, faucet, countertop with simple back and side splashes of counter material, lights, tp holder and towel ring, towel hooks or bar, shower curtain, some cute decor, small storage cabinet over toilet for TP, and re-painted. One bathroom got a new mirror. At that time we left the floors, tubs and showers alone. Good luck!