Of the ones you mention only strawberry with a plum tree makes any sense to me. The others are too big or require a different soil pH. I've had up to 5 fruit trees in one 15 gallon pot and gotten fruit off all. So you can try anything. But why not get another pot for each one? 10-15 gallons isn't much to grow any of these and expect much fruit. Pots aren't cheap. But having $130 of fruit trees in one pot isn't cheap either. On most of my 5 in one pot, I later moved them to an in-ground spot for more production. This also allows fruit the year of planting in-ground.

@ Davissue: That's exactly what my DH is worried about. :) The mess. And I say, like GardenGuru asked... I'm gonna eat it first!!!! Or turn it into preserves of some sort. Or juice. Or pick it and give it away. @ GardenGuru: Yes!!! I'm going to pick it and eat it :) I love fruit, and I love picking fruit, and I love making things out of fruit, and I love giving it away too :) Thank you for the suggestions. I was raised in the tropics so much of the fruits people would consider "exotic" are pretty common for me. The Cauplin cherry looks interesting but 30' tall is really much too large for that area I think. I love Lychee but they can't tolerate frost and they get too big. We already have a mulberry. @ Hoovb: Good suggestion. I know it sounds unimaginative to want to plant such "common" fruits as plums, etc. but to me they were always picked early and shipped long distances so to eat a fresh stone fruit is my idea of heaven! I buy a lot of bananas but they die back with frost here and I could never grow enough to feed my habit. Plus they're cheap :) I love cherries and blueberries and all berries. I need to have a berry section but don't know where to do it. Our Asian pear has put little fruits the past two years but I've taken them off in order to encourage the tree to put its energy into growth. @ Socalgal: Thank you. I guess talking to the nursery is a good plan for the espalier. What kind of trellis do you have? I am considering running a trellis/fence on the inside of our white fence and training them on that. Or, just getting dwarfs and letting them bush out. Here's a picture of the driveway. The house in the picture is my neighbors. My driveway is the long one on the left and my house is in the back. The fruit trees will go along the white fence. On the street side where there is no fence we are planning to put some clumping bamboo (for privacy) for the first 10' or so, then something small and hedge-ish for the last 10' for visibility issues. The length in front of the fence is approx. 40' long x 4' wide. And there is another 30+' past where the fence ends.

I grow mostly apples in the central piedmont (Durham County). But I'm experimenting with other fruits and I can tell you a few of my experiences after 5 years of fruit growing. Start your orchard before you have kids! I'm so glad I did because I can hardly find the time to maintain it. I can tell you that apples take a lot of work, if you want quality fruit. At least that's been my experience. I have to spray for everything; cedar apple rust, brown spot, plum curculio has been a devastating insect as well as apple fly maggot. But I've managed to harvest some decent apples recently. I really love Grime's Golden (antique) and Liberty (modern). If you want a care-free fruit, nice tree structure, a bountiful harvest every fall of beautiful blemish-free fruit, the Fuyu persimmon takes the cake. This fruit requires no spray here at my place. Figs are another fruit I'm trying that are showing a lot of promise. I want to start blueberries but just haven't found the time yet.

It probably has to do with growth hormone levels circulating in the tree. If it was grafted onto wild plum rootstock, this could cause the apricot tree to be less vigorous, or possibly interfere with its normal fruiting development. Might have to do with the climate up there too, if it is still too cold for the tree to grow vigorously when the fruit is developing. Normally you see fruit drop on very young trees or in climates without an adequate number of chill hours.