So I called Whirlpool. The WP rep, Chris, stated that the 84 degrees I experienced for "hot" is "not that far off" from the target temp, which is 90-100 degrees. He said, "Today's detergents dissolve better in cold water." I did not argue this statement, but it's NOT true. Nothing dissolves "better" in colder water. This is a principle of physics that's not going to change. I pointed out that the temperature I got when selecting "hot" in this machine with "6TH SENSE technology" was not by any stretch of the imagination even warm. He suggested that if I want hotter water, I should turn up my hot water heater. Well, THAT suggestion made me mad! I said, "Do you realize how WASTEFUL of energy it would be to turn up the hot water heater, especially my tank heater, and have unnecessarily hot water running in every tap in my house, just because your washer is designed to mix cold water with the hot?!?" He also said that a technician could come check the machine, but if it is working "as designed," I would be charged for a service call. All along I have sympathized with asolo's annoyance, but at this point I am even more annoyed than he is. I was so annoyed I forgot to ask what the target temp is for "warm." I mean, the cold water in my tap right now is 77 degrees! The description of ATC "6TH SENSE" gave me the impression that it works in a much more sophisticated way than it really does. It sounded to me like the machine senses the temperature and adjusts the hot and cold inflow. But it seems like it simply draws from each tap in some proportion, which has changed recently to favor more cold. So I did some more experimenting. I turned off the cold intake to the washer. I then ran the hot tap in my laundry sink till it was hot. I had to run OVER 2 GALLONS before it ran hot. I immediately started a load choosing "hot" as the temp. The wash cycle ran just fine. Toward the end of the wash cycle, however, the machine tried to draw water from the cold, and when it couldn't get flow, stopped and flashed "F 20" error code. I turned the cold back on, but had to cancel the load to get out of that state. It took a few minutes longer than usual to cancel the load. So bottom line, "6TH SENSE" or no, I get MUCH HOTTER in-the-tub temps if I run the hot tap first, and close the cold intake during the fill for the wash cycle. After the fill, I reopen the cold intake so that it will be set to rinse. The fill takes only a couple minutes, so this isn't too bad. (Disclaimer: This is how my CURRENT model of the Whirlpool Duet 9400 functions; there's no guarantee that other makes, models, or vintages will function the same way.) I would not be surprised if a few years from now, the govt requires the manufacturers to program the machine not to work if it can't draw from the cold intake. All of this experimenting has reconfirmed something I had learned in the past with my old top-loader: Hot water cleans much better than cold, with NO additional wear or damage to most fabrics.

The reason I prefer not to go over 32" without a center stile is that I'm known for loading up my shelves. Only a weightlifter would be able to carry a single row of the art/history books that are crammed tight onto every shelf of all 23+ bookcases we own. My DH worked in a warehouse and regularly hauled around 100-lb boxes, but even he can't carry around more than about half the books on a single shelf comfortably. Now, my kitchen stuff is very good quality but not as heavy as an entire row of my art books. However, it wouldn't take much to get there - my 6-qt cast iron Dutch oven and two 25-lb bags of rice (which a lot of Asians have on hand), and you're getting dangerously close to the 75-lb limit on most kitchen cab shelving. I have five different sets of dinnerware service, and some of them are VERY heavy, to the point where you wouldn't want to carry all 16 dinner plates at one time (unlike bone china, where an average adult could manage 16 plates with no more trouble than it would be to carry 15 lbs. of sugar or flour). If you have any doubts about your shelving in a cab wider han 32", the solution is simple. Weigh what you are going to put into it, and see what the total is. If you are well under the weight rating - your cab maker should be able to tell you what the max load limit is per shelf - then you'll be fine; e.g., you're only putting 50 lbs of kitchen stuff on a shelf rated for 75 lbs.

Hey thanks guys for the very nice comments. I know I can get a bit goofy at times and go off the deep end on some very trivial subjects. I had always assumed maybe I had more enemies here than friends. Well that may still be the case, but it's still nice to know you guys are here. I would miss alot of your personalities too. You guys are good people. My crash was a big wake-up call. God was definitely watching out for me. Any number of things could have happened just a little bit differently and netted much more disastrous results. I walked away w/o a scratch and so did the trucker. My car is a bit mangled, but is repairable, and yes, it is JUST a car - easily replaced. I had been taking a lot of things for granted and had fallen into an "I don't care" attitude - and this event just snapped me out of it. I have a firmer grasp of what is REALLY important again. Life can drastically change or can even be snuffed out in the blink of an eye. Maybe this lesson wasn't just intended for me either. Maybe somebody out there reading this also needs to wake up. Take care guys. Thanks again.

j'ai enfin retrouvé ce poste de ma dernière lecture de il y a 1 ans que j'endure le problème de déverrouillages. Maintenant elle ne verrouille même plus a chaud. Plutôt que d' affaiblir le ressort j'ai approfondit les 2 encoche de plastique ( la petite encoche) des 2 coté du dit ressort avec une scie a frette de Guitard (scie sans chemin et très mince)...... je me suis rendu au fond . Résultat très (trop) concluant mais j'y suit aller trop loin et maintenant la porte verrouille des que je la ferme. Je projeté d'étirer le ressort mais j'hésite car c'est viable tel quel juste a déverrouiller la porte manuellement. Les pointes et la micro switche ont été nettoyer et tester mais le problème ne viens pas de la.... (Je suis technicien sur des spas.... j'assume mes résulta sur ce que j'avance...) Mon impression c'est que a l'usure du temps et le poids de la porte en verre associé a l'usure des penture de la porte fait pression sur le mécanisme et empêche que le loquet de travail librement ce qui pointe sur le fait que le loquet neuf ou et la carte ne change rien...... Les bobine ou les relais sur la carte peuvent ne pas aider a avoir une belle impulsion pour l'électro aimant. donc dans certains cas cela peut aider.... et un relais ca se change en boutique électronique pour je dirais 50 a 75$$ et non 800$$$ pour la carte au complet donc pas beaucoup a perde dy mètre 2 relais neuf ......