Blueberry advice for Texas (west of Ft Worth)
linda_8a_westofdfw_tx
7 years ago
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garybeaumont_gw
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Fruit Trees for Fort Worth, Texas 7B
Comments (13)Just thought I would come back and update this thread! I think that I bought some of this stuff in late 2010, but I don't know definitely. I have notes from 2011. Ozark Premier plum from womack: growing great, no fruit yet. Redglobe peach from womack: growing great, fruited last year. less than a dozen peaches with good flavor. Orient pear from womack: growing great, no fruit. Eureka persimmon from womack: dead. my fault. transplanted in the heat of summer last year and it didn't make it. hadn't fruit yet. Phil's sweet pomegranate from edible landscaping: growing great. had two poms last year. very sweet, very little tartness. minimal hard seeds. Jersey knight asparagus from edible landscaping: growing great. harvested a few spears last year. already growing this year. Grapes from lowes: hit or miss on how well its doing. bought flame red, thompson red and monukka. Weeping mulberry from edible landscaping: growing. probably didn't trim properly, as its still very low. fruited last year and can already see fruit now. fruits were very edible (I was concerned that it might be more decorative). i would say sweet. Illinois everbearing mulberry: growing slowly. moved it last year, so it might be a little shocked. did get a handful of fruits last year. At my previous house, I had both navajo and arapaho blackberries in slight shade. They both grew. The navajo berries were superior in sweetness to the arapaho. I have chosen to put in some navajo at the current house....See MoreWest Texas bermudagrass lawn needs help!
Comments (64)I'm going to go ahead and resurrect this old post so hopefully someone can learn and hear from a different perspective from a professional. I would first like to mention, TexasWeed, I know who you are, I've read many of your post, and you have some knowledge. With all due respect, I respectively disagree with you in many aspects though. One of the paint points I disagree with you on, is you suggesting a SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER in the original posters situation. While slow release fertilizers can be great in many areas, and especially in particular times of the year. This was not a great suggestion for the poster in my honest and fair opinion. Why? The poster is growing a lawn on sand. We know what that means. Lower CEC levels, and little nutrient holding power. Nutrients will never last as long in Sand. The same PPSCU, XCU, and Sulfur coated fertilizers that may claim 2-3 months, is not near the case for turf growing on Sand. Even for lawns growing on Clay such as myself here in Central Texas, many people fail to understand how "Slow Release" products work. Knowing the growth characteristics will put you far ahead of the game. Many PPSCU and various other slow release products contain coatings which are dependent on various factors. If you study these factors, most of these coatings are designed to be broken down with the main factor being "TEMPERATURE." Slow to release nutrients when cool, and they literally dump nutrients when soil temperatures are very warm. In Texas, this is the majority of the time, so what you get left with, is an over-priced bag of "Slow Release" that's dumping much quicker then "SLOW" due to high temperatures being exhibited. My approach, especially on dealing with "SAND" such as the poster is SPOON FEEDING quick release fertilizers. Bermuda especially, needs to be supplied adequate nitrogen for outstanding turf quality, density, and color. The goal is to feed the turf what it needs as it uses it. By doing so, the turf will continue to be fed, and the sandy soils that don't hold nutrients will continue to be ideal for the turf. The original poster had great improvements from doing 1/2 applications from Ammonia Sulfate every few weeks and this supports exactly what I'm saying. However, to the original poster, you are forgetting many important nutrients. A soil test will be MANDATORY for the perfect lawn. Without a soil test, I can't recommend phosphorus, I see enough of it around my parts of Texas. The problem is much of the phosphorus isn't available. Same with Potassium, except I consider this CRUCIAL. Your lawn needs potassium to aid in extreme temperatures and disease pressure such as what we have here in Texas. Potassium is a luxury consumption nutrient, meaning you put it down, the turf is going to use it, if in available form. Much of our potassium in our soils is NOT AVAILABLE when comparing from my recent soil test, to actual TISSUE TEST. Also, using 21-0-0 provides lots of Sulfur that will aid in bringing Texas's natural high pH down and will also aid in uptake up other nutrients, including our long lost Iron. If you've ever applied Iron in Texas, you'll notice, there might or might not be a response, if you get a response, it doesn't last. This is pH related and calls for using only CHLEATED IRON products which is much more usable and available to the turf in our area. If you want a usable mix, trust my word on this, try it, and come back to me and tell me you have the best lawn in the neighborhood after half a growing season. (You might have to source these products), but they are all available in Texas. Depending on your work schedule and free time you can adjust your rates and applications, but you need to apply in adequate water to avoid burn potential. Most likely, you will have to go with the lower spray rates and more often unless you have a high volume sprayer like we use that holds hundreds of gallons. Bermuda: Weekly Fertilizer Mix: .25N per 1,000 Sq. Feet (From Ammonia Sulfate 21-0-0) .25 (SOP) per 1,000 Sq. Feet (Potassium Sulfate) .50 ounces per 1,000 Sq. Feet (Micro nutrients with chleated Iron and mg and mn. The micro nutrient product is really important and will aid in giving your turf the color you are looking for. I (HIGHLY) suggest either using (FeATURE 6-0-0) by loveland products or Main Event Chleated Micro nutrients If you don't have the time to spoon feed your lawn weekly, you can adjust the rates, either double for bi-weekly, or multiply x 4 for monthly. Don't go longer then month long applications. The only catch is, 21-0-0 has burn potential. You will need at (MINIMUM) of 1 gallon of water per 8 ounces of 21-0-0 in your mix to avoid burn potential. Do not adjust the rates above, this mix is tried and true on Texas Turf and will leave you with the greenest lawn in the neighborhood. If you don't have a large enough sprayer with capability of putting out enough water volume, you're better sticking with granular fertilizers. We use 200+ gallon tanks, with walking booms for an even application. Nozzles on the sprayer are also important. We use TeeJet Air Induction and FloodJet tips to reduce drift, depending on the water needed for the application....See MoreAre blueberries worth the effort?
Comments (15)Thanks for the compliment there. It is worth it, but I didn't initially realize what I was getting into. If you mess up any single thing, they are toast. canokie, you have the right ideas with your soil (none, just peat moss and bark). I would guess that north of I40 you can do the northern highbush and be fine. One of the reasons I got my weather station was to keep track of chill hours and compare to budbreak dates for things like blueberries. I have 60 plants and 20 are just entering their 3rd year or so. the others are mature and have done fairly well, but this is the worst they have looked while dormant. I didn't mulch enough and left too many berries on during last summer. Still I expect to get about 120 to 150 quarts off of them this year without weather issues. Last year I kept or gave away 20 quarts and sold about 160 quarts. This way I can pay all my expenses and just have invested the time (lots) and have all the berries I can eat and a nice landscape. I broke even last year by the end of the year and now just invest about $250 annually for mulch so I need to sell 50 qts each year to break even yearly. The amount of hours I have put it is really crazy (like staying up all night with fires between rows during the late feezes). I admire people who do this for a living. I could not do it without glyphosate (bermuda) by the way....See MoreSpring Plant Swap Sat. April 28th, Near Ft. Worth,Texas~YIPEE
Comments (150)Hi Angie, it would be nice if you could get here around 10:45. I really appreciate your help. I think I should give you one of Jolana or PJ's plants for being so nice. lol Here are the directions to the plant swap: I've had several people ask for directions to the plant swap and it's a good thing they didn't map it on the internet because both mapquest and yahoo maps have it wrong. They both say to take Thousand Oaks to Yvonne Dr. but Thousand Oaks is a deadend street. Here are directions to the plant swap from Loop 820 in Ft. Worth. DRIVING DIRECTIONS TO THE PLANT SWAP DO NOT TRY AND USE THE MAPS ON THE INTERNET OR YOUÂLL GET LOST Map quest and Mapit both have it wrong. From 820 in Ft. Worth you turn onto I-35W south, head south and stay on I-35W until you see the Hwy 174 Cleburne exit. This will be in Burleson. Head south on Hwy 174 (which is also called Wilshire Blvd) until you come to Joshua. When you come up a small hill, youÂll see an Assembly of God church on the right. In front of the church is Main St. Take Main St. and go three streets down to Yvonne Dr. ItÂs the 7th house on the left 1011 Yvonne Dr. Look for the birdhouse mailbox. If you have any questions or get lost then call me Carol 817 447-3438. ItÂs real easy to find....See Morelinda_8a_westofdfw_tx
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7 years agoMrClint
7 years agogarybeaumont_gw
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7 years ago
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