June HEAT
WoodsTea 6a MO
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Conifers and our US weather variability
Comments (34)The person who criticized my posts for being too complicated, better just stop now. I guess it helps to remember the zones are 'USDA', which is the US department of agriculture and really has nothing to do with ornamental plants. Nein. Ornamental plants ARE part of the USDA's mission. That's why the National Arboretum is under their aegis. Remember wholesale nurseries definitely are a form of agriculture. The USDA zone system gives the barest measure of whether a plant can survive in a given area. Obviously, something hardy only in zone 10 cannot survive in zone 6. Beyond that, there are many other factors. The latest revised USDA zone map seems very accurate to me. I know of gardens along the Delaware river in NJ that really do seem like zn 7b. But it took a ridiculously long time to come out...considering the overall crunching of data probably took a few hours on a high perf. workstation or server. (in case you don't know, it's based on a climate model developed at U Oregon called "Prism") This was not some advanced climate simulation going on like trying to predict hurricanes. And given that computer technology has advanced so much including the algorithm development one would have to say the current USDA map reflects a certain lack of vision, though, again, at least they finally got it correct. By this I mean something like the Sunset system could have been developed, although there were problems with that approach if you try to extend it over the country. Rather than discrete numbers that could get ridiculously long for certain plants (i.e., this grows in 21, 33,34,35,36,37,38,40,52,61,62,63,64,75,78 etc) it could have used a series of vectors that graph a space representing the plant's preferences. Zones 1 to 10 would still be the first dimension of this system so you don't "break compatibility" with what we already have. The two main additional factors I would propose would be aridity, and summer temperature. There are several reasons for this; namely, there are already 2 factors certain nurseries use when selling plants. The AHS "heat zone" map exists, and is used by a few nurseries to show warning on certain species, and aridity scales have been adopted by Desert Northwest and High Country Gardens. Mind you these scales would not necessarily be linear and could code a sub-dimension, or even be matrixed to code an additional factor. For example it might make more sense for moisture to go: part of year arid - sporadic/none of year - all year - part of year but high atmospheric moisture. Because there are non-linearities in the way plants behave with respect to that, and with summer temperature. Some cool summer seasonal plants are actually known to grow in all year rainfall climates like England, but only with cool summers. The point is the arrange things in the way that leads to the most chances of solid groupings. Such mathematical shenanigans might make it hard for people to understand how to derive their own zone, but the point is it doesn't matter. They will get their zone off a map. Also different from the Sunset zones, there no need for a comprehensive, singular map because everyone will use some kind of smart device in the future that can easily click one location between 3 or more different maps. So a zone like mine would go from 7a (I think the a/b is of more limited usefulness than most people realize, though I have and will continue to reference the subzones) to something like 7J6. 7 being 0 to 10f min annual temp, J being a climate with rain all year but some expectation of brief droughts, and 6 being heat zone 6. Let's call it the Comprehensive Plant Zone. A _PLANT_ ranges, versus a gardening location, would go from "USDA zone 7-10" for a maritime climate plant like Eucryphia, to "CPZ (comprehensive plant zoning) zone "7H2-10M4" meaning that range of minimum winter temps, and a generally moist climate though accepting somewhat dry summers, as long as 3) the summers are cool. I would instantly recognize that I can't grow the plant because I'm off on one of the codes. Of course, this will never happen and there will be howls of "it's too complicated" but you can be sure in the early 1960s some hayseeds saw the first Harvard zone map and said "oh them fancy professors and their durn maps, I know what grows here and uh don't need some map." Also let's face that other than the big midwestern cities the net migration in the country is towards the SE, S & W where the USDA zone system is least useful. USDA system is most useful for telling people in Iowa there are many, many plants that they are far too cold to grow (sorry Iowans, someone had to be an example) than answering the question for someone in Phoenix, Arizona of whether a certain species of Protea could grow there. (and I reckon a couple of the most heat tolerant ones could) That a sunset zone map was made for the whole country is something I applaud, my idea just tries to make their system easier to use when dealing with a lot of customers and plants. Instead of saying "that only grows in 31, not 42" it's more helpful to say "your moisture factor of J is too much for an A-E plant, it will rot"....See MoreTOO Hot
Comments (9)Loretta, My weather befuddles me too. It "has to be" because we are in a low-lying microclimate as nothing else makes any sense. However, our weather is highly erratic, though the same could be said of any location in Oklahoma. Here in Love County, in the 13 years we've been here, our first killing frost in autumn has come as early as late September and as late as mid-December. That's a huge range! Our last killing frost of spring has occurred as early as late February one year, but for the last 4 years it has hit on May 3rd or 4th, which also is a huge range. Rainfall is a whole different issue. Of course it varies wildly. I think the lowest annual rainfall we've had since moving here was a little under 19" in 2003 and the most was a little over 50" in 2009. Some "old timers" here insist that back in the old days, they routinely had annual rainfall near 50" without fail. More importantly than total overall rainfall is when/how it falls. One June we had over a foot of rain. I think it was in 2004 and I think 2007 was similar. That's great for June, but if no more rain falls after that until autumn, then we have drought in July and August anyway. Our weather since about 2005 or 2006 has been completely the opposite of what we saw in the first half of the decade. I don't know why the sudden change, but I'm inclined to think it is related to worldwide climate change, although I have no idea if the climate change is part of a natural cycle of the earth or if it is manmade. So, with the abrupt change in our weather here, I have had to make make many adjustments to how and when I plant. It is making me crazy. My DH is usually totally supportive of my gardening projects, but routinely turns down my annual plea that he build a huge Biodome over my garden to moderate the wild swings in the weather. (And wouldn't I just drop dead of shock if he suddenly agreed to it...not that we could afford it anyway!) I've gotten into row covers in a big way and they make a big difference. I'm glad my comment on starting/planting extra tomato plants was helpful to you. Congrats on the great early harvest. When we lived in Fort Worth, it got so hot so early there that we planted much too early in an effort to beat the heat. Usually it paid off because it was easy to cover up a small garden on a couple of late cold nights. Here, the garden is so much bigger and there's just so much to cover. Once the plants are tall, it is hard to cover them up to protect them from our now-expected late frost in May. My potato plants usually freeze several times because of the erratic spring weather, and I know the repeated freeze damage cuts my production back a bit each time it occurs. This year they only froze once (I didn't cover them up) but I covered them up on two additional very late freezing nights and they were not damaged. Maybe it is a coincidence, but we just harvested our largest potato crop ever so I think covering up the plants, which were about 2' tall the last time I covered them, paid off. I learn so much from this and other GW forums too. For example, even though I observed incredibly high fruit set on Big Boy and Better Boy fall tomato plants in August of one of the years in the early 2000s, when our highs were around 108-113 and our lows were in the low to mid-80s, I couldn't explain it. It really puzzled me because I well understood the connection between high temps and blossom drop. Then, a couple of years later I noticed that Carla, who is in Sacramento, posted often on the Tomato Forum about how she gets great fruit set in high heat accompanied by very low humidity. Bingo! That little light bulb went off in my head because in the years I had the very high fruit set in August, our RH was in the teens and single digits during the time the fruit set. So, what she described explained what I observed. I am not sure how long it would have taken me to figure out the humidity connection on my own, or if I ever would have. I love my back-up tomato plants. I usually keep them going in cups until mid-May. Eventually I compost them. However, the peace of mind they give me every time hail is in the forecast is just priceless. I planted everything as early as I could this year in order to beat the heat and it is paying off. We've got the largest green bean harvest from the bush beans that we've ever had this early. After last year, I knew I needed to get ahead of the grasshoppers and be finished with the bush beans before July arrived. Our onion crop is the best ever, although either 2007 or 2008 was a great onion year too. However, this year most of the above-ground cool season crops produced poorly as did the fruit trees. On the other hand, I didn't want or need another fruit harvest of over 300 lbs. like we had last summer. It is really too much fruit for one family to eat fresh and for one person to process. Every year some things perform better and others perform poorly and you have to go with the flow. However, if you watch me at planting time, you can tell what I 'missed' most from the previous year. This year I went hog wild planting beans and southern peas because they were gobbled up by the grasshoppers last year. Although I have a pretty good garden every year, I never have a 'great year' with every single item in it. That's my ultimate dream veggie garden--one in which everything produces high yields in the same year. It probably never, ever will happen. Dawn...See MoreThe much maligned, beloved Hot Cocoa
Comments (8)Gorgeous roses and pictures, Kathy! I had to laugh at your title. It does seem to be a rose you either love or hate. I love the blooms on mine and I agree they are not brassy at all. What I hate is the gawky, awkward way the plant grows. I've tried and tried to shape it with pruning but it refuses to cooperate!...See MoreTrellis mates--long
Comments (12)Everything is so pretty. Your America is dazzeling. Pearly Gates is pretty...is it fragrant? The Pricilla Burton with your clematis is striking. And I agree that the Ballerina grouping is charming. With such a view, I imagine you don't mind doing dishes so very much. Sandra...See MoreUser
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