I do check with Clothier's data on seed germination, it is helpful. A method that I came up with myself and use for germinating seed of prairie wiildflowers and grasses is to cover the seed once it is sown with a coarser perlite rather than a peat based germ mix which seems to smother the seed. This method is used for seed that requires a covering, some seeds need to remain uncovered and exposed to light for germination. I found that Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed) doesn't germinate at all when lightly covered with a peat based media - I got a few to germ that were left uncovered but I get high germ when the seed is lightly and evenly covered with perlite after it is sown. This tells me that prairie species need more gas exchange or exposure to the air while at the same time being covered so the seed is protected and does not dry out. I wouldn't worry too much about your seed germinating early in the fridge, I have Dictamnus albus and eryngium sprouting now in the seed trays that are in my refrigerator - the mice kept getting them in my garage - the cold temps will keep them from growing much and they will be taken out of the fridge in late March or early April to go out into a cold greenhouse to continue growing. Keep in mind that seed that requires stratification for germination can not be hurried along with warm temps! We aren't growing marigolds or petunias here. If you see no activity after you might expect to see signs of life, keep the seed colder longer rather than warming them up - most seeds will start to sprout while still chilled and germ best while at cool temperatures. Again, good luck! I wanted to add that some varieties that require stratification do only start to 'wake up' and grow once the temps warm up, like morz8 said - but not too warm - temps in the low 60's are better than say mid 70 or 80 degrees. Try to avoid quick extremes and no need for additives like wood ash or innoculants for germination - I've never used GA-3 myself and don't really see a need for it. There is no secret incantation or method that will make this process go much faster, it is one of those things that takes time. 'Tricky' things - violet species for example - germinate for me better when they are placed in a coldframe outside because the rain and snow are washing out the germination inhibitors that keep the seed from growing at the wrong time. That is my educated guess. I remember that when I grew Callirhoe involucrata from seed the germination was very erratic, seedlings slowly germinating in an outdoor seed bed for more than three years! This post was edited by jebfarm on Sun, Dec 28, 14 at 13:58

Thank you Tommy, the 6 weeks that you suggested seems to be a good working time frame. This time through was only the germination test. I have a 1000 more seed that I just bagged up and will be leaving in the fridge over the next 6 weeks. This will give me a little time to learn how to keep them alive in the meantime. That is going to be the real challenge. I will post an update on these little ones soon. They seem to be really slow growers so it may be a while before there is anything visually noticeable to report. Tracy

I might put half of the C-30s and C060s into soil blocks and back into the frig just to see what happens. It would save a lot of hassle if it does.

I started out with around 100+ seeds and have left 60 give or take to leave in the freezer for about a month. Last year we bought two younger plants which we just left outside in pots which are now starting to sprout new growth (5-6 new stalks each). The ones that I have been trying to germinate outside of the freezer have been in a container folded in a damp towel for around 3 weeks and only one has sprouted and I am doing my best to nurse it. sorry for the lack of info I was just mainly concerned about the growth of my seeds being as the second year plants are doing just fine and will hopefully produce seed pods this year