Yay !! Thanks for the info. Now if it will only get warm again ........ I am very wimpy when it comes to cold weather. Too bad hubby does not take as much interest in these things. I usually have to bribe him or threaten him to get his help, LOL. Believe me, the success of our zoysia has NOTHING to do with us !! We are very lucky that the previous owners lived here a long time and took obvious pride in the beauty of the yard. There was an owner in between who was foreclosed on and let things fall apart. We have been struggling to restore the house since we bought it. Inside came first, at the detriment of the yard, so last year we started working on bringing the yard back. Mostly the beds, and stuff like that. The zoysia was very forgiving on only getting mowed and no other love for several years. : )

Joen, as far as what type seed would be best for your zone 6 area, the usual recommendation is to use a northern type, cool season grass. That suggests any number of types that fit your requirements for your conditions. Since you have full sun....that is ideal conditions for a combination of 3 types......Kentucky Blue 40%, Perennial Ryegrass 20% amd 40% red fescue. As any shade interferes any area, a larger percentage of fescue can be given. Overseeding should be done when the soil temperature is high enough to start the seed germination. Putting down seed before that happens, it will just sit and wait for the most opportune time to start germinating. If you are near the ocean, moderating temperatures may allow you to think zone 7. This then may allow you to plant a type of grass more suited to southern areas. Speak to your local garden nurseryman who sells grass seed in bulk....not necessarily, but he will have some, packaged grass seed. Before the intended day to seed the area, things can be done to help improve the soil. The ground should be level with regard to how it drains. If you feel it may be compacted from traffic, you can do either of two things; just rake hard the area with a fan rake to open the surface a bit or do a wholesale aeration with a tool rented from a rent-all or have it done by a professional. You can read further material on what aeration is all about and why, if you feel its needed, aeration should be done. Then, a 1/2" - 1" layer of topsoil/triple mix/compost -- you decide--is laid dowon over the area. You can also decide whether the area needs rolling. Sometimes, over winter, ground can heave from how moisture has infiltrated. Rain, snowmelt may gain entry to your soil well and be left to freeze/thaw which can heave an area. Rolling with a roller 1/3 full - or less--can put these mounds back level. This should be done though when the ground has thoroughly dried. Rolling wet or damp ground can press the soil to a compaction level; this you don't want. The very reason why you might need or want to aerate. Then lay down the grass seed of your choice either by hand or by spreader. Whether you put a dusting of soil over this is up to you--usually not needed. Any birds that find your seed, unless they are in numbers, you shouldn't worry about. A starter fertilizer can be given the seed if you think its necessary. It helps the seed germinate sooner than later. Then a constant sprinkling of water over the seeded area--you stay off of it--twice or three times a day for the first week, then 2 or 3 days apart the next week; then as the seed needs it and with rain in mind. To maintain the lawn in the best shape, the layering of one half inch to one inch of topsoil/compost over the area every spring and fall for at least four years, is the way to make your lawn the envy of the neighborhood. Me, I like to do the layering every year as a matter of routine. I save most of my made-compost for this purpose every year and it has paid dividends. Persons often use the word 'carpet' when they refer to my lawn. Now some will argue against it--fertilizer--it is one of the best ways to guarantee a lawn that grows well, stays green throughout all summer's heat and fills in those areas that winter might kill or damage. A high nitrogen type with the added trace elements will help keep your lawn in good health. A regular fertilizer regimen is one of the best ways to keep the lawn looking good for years and years. Maintain the height at 3" - 3 1/2" and let the clippings stay --unless they are too much, then throw them into your composter. Don't have one? Start one and save all that goodness for your lawn and gardens.

I forgot to mention we have 2 mature oak trees and 1 birch tree in front which get dappled sunlight throughout the day. On the backyard there is 2 mature red maple and 1 hickory shagbark. These past fall we got all the oak and maple trees raised the canopy significantly which hopefully in spring and summer we can see the difference in sunlight penetration. So establishing a lawn doing dormant seeding in the backyard which is almost from scratch is close to impossible? Thanks again.

@ organic trickster no.. BC, Canada.. we have Safeway here too :0) @ mutant hybrid the plants are situated right against a south facing deck sliding door (a floor-to-ceiling window, effectively). So they get both any winter sun/ambient-cloud-light and the fluorescent light for 14+ hours. As I said, it's not showing any sign of distress. It's been fed 1 large insect per month and has caught some small flies by itself as well. No traps have rotted due to any of the feedings. It's being watered from the top only until the overflow on the bottom is 1.5 inches deep. The mix is 50/50 peat/sand. The pots are 5 inches tall, so the bulb is not sitting in the standing water at the lower levels. There is a half inch layer of pure peat at the top of the soil as the sand grains get displaced easily by watering. The peat topping prevents that. I'm really worried since it is winter time and all the discussions here say "If you don't allow your plant to go dormant, it will die." I guess what I'm getting at is that that statement has a caveat: "... unless you provide a lot of light during the dim months." I can see how suboptimal fluorescent light provided in the winter will not feed the plant enough while keeping it out of dormancy because of the # of hours it experiences light. It will want to grow (not dormant) but will not have enough energy to do so and will die trying. From further readings, it's the light hours and not the temperature that's important. A high temperature will allow fungus and other things to kill the plant. Hence the temperature is important, but not for putting the plant into dormancy. It's to stifle the growth of the organisms that don't need light. Is that a fair assessment of missed dormancy deaths that people experience? Adam PS. As I snipped off 4 really old traps that were starting to turn black, I also pulled those old leaves as far down as I could by using the pointy end of my wife's nail file to get down into the earth pull away at a deep level. I put them in a jar with very, very wet peat moss and covered it with plastic wrap and a rubber band. I'm hoping to get 4 little plants by July. Anyone try that before?