I do have sandy loam and during the heat of summer I will water twice/day, early AM and evening. It not possible for me to tell if she is overwatering but it sure doesn't look like it.

IF your tomatoes split after a rain storm they are not getting enuff water. BER is normally an indication of uneven watering. Some tomato varieties are simply more prone to BER than others. IIRC larger tomato varieties are more sensitive.

As mentioned there may just be too many tomatoes (babies) for the present root structure of the plant to feed all of these babies.

Hmm.. interesting

The last time we had rain - my cherry tomatoes split. Not sure if that's because they were ripe or it's the water. That being said, I should probably buy a soil moisture measuring device - saw one today when I bought "lime" for my plant.

I only used the lime on my beefsteak tomatoes - nothing else. I figured since practically every tomato from that plant had BER - what's there to lose? I do understand that it can alter the pH of the soil - tried to keep it as localized to that plant as possible. Now "theoretically speaking" - how long does it take for the plant to absorb the lime - it was diluted to liquid

Latest example:

Okay - so as a new Gardner I'm learning lots here!

Next year - start from seeds and try more varieties (sorry I'm having too much with this). Start earlier than May (for seeds), avoid beefsteak tomatoes, research space required for plants and plant accordingly.

I'll keep my eyes open on my other tomatoes - that should give me a better clue too - if it's the soil, water habits or just the variety doesn't work for me!

Thanks!!

Will keep posted in anything changes

I may have missed a point or 2 in this thread, but why "avoid beefsteak tomatoes"?

Well - it's because the beefsteak tomatoes are the ONLY tomatoes that are suffering from blossom end rot... so far anyway

My Cherry/Tumblers are great! Bright red - harvest them almost on a daily basis. Then again it's probably because they are smaller in size and aren't as susceptible to BER.

I also have a couple of Tiny Tim Plants, 1 Big Boy, 1 Early Girl and 4 other plant variety which I JUST learned now that I mislabeled (thanks to my cat for tossing the seedling pods)... it's probably either Roma Tomatoes or Marglobe tomatoes... all these plants have tomatoes on them.. but they are still green - so I can't tell if the BER will occur with these varieties. FINGERS CROSSED!!! My Melons and Peppers are fine - no BER there.

I asked some time ago about your watering habits as that can certainly contribute to BER. Watering seedlings where the stem goes into the soil is effective when they are seedlings. As the plants grow so do the roots. Plants feed from their root tips. If you are still watering close to where the stem goes into the soil that is not helping the plant nor this problem.

Check the below lonk and look for ROOT DEVELOPMENT OF VEGETABLE CROPS then look for tomatoes to see if that helps.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2158166/corn-in-sfg-how-deep-do-roots-need-to-grow

mystearica, it's your choice of course, but writing off a type of tomato because of the problems of one (or even a few) growing season - especially if you are still learning - might be a bit premature. For the record, 'beefsteaks' are not even the type most prone to BER. That dubious reputation belongs to the paste, or 'Roma' style.

If you just don't prefer the beefsteaks (and some, like my Grandad, just don't care for them,) then sure, that's a valid enough reason. However, if they are something you would like, but are just having difficulty, then don't give up. The trick is to start now.

Get a soil test. This make sure your soil is well balanced, and your pH is in the range where calcium (as well as all the other nutrients) are available to the plants. There are nutrient and pH imbalances which make calcium less available. Then, as described above, learn about irrigation. Water is the medium through which nutrients are taken up into the plant. Making sure that each species and variety is grown under conditions they prefer is something you can learn. And although it can seem complicated, it just takes learning, practice, and experience. Watering is no different.

Even the best gardeners though, face times when they too are forced to discard BER-affected tomatoes. Some conditions are within your control, and some aren't. There are years when life-long farmers face total crop failure. The trick is to brush the dirt off and get back in there!

That said, yep, there are circumstances where certain crops just do not do well in certain areas and under certain conditions. Keep trying, beefsteaks - if you want them - are within your grasp.

Oh, and like I mentioned above... personal choice is a perfectly reasonable criteria for what you decide to grow. If it weren't for my Grandfather, I would have no use for cherry or grape-style tomatoes. I find them more trouble then they are worth lol. But he likes them, and the irony... they grow well, and often out-perform the ones I like lol. Oh, and my niece who visits from time to time absolutely loves eating them. Eats 'em like candy! There are certainly worse things they would eat if not for those unruly, tough to harvest, wastes-of-space lol.

mystearica - you are jumping to too many invalid conclusions here. Most everyone has to deal with some BER early every year and it has little to nothing to do with the variety or type. So no one would rule out an entire type of tomatoes just because of some BER. As was first pointed out, it is a water-related issue when plants are young and new transplanted and stressed. Trying to 'fix' it, other than correcting the poor watering practices, usually only makes it worse.

Of all the many points made above the one that needs to change, the most important one IMO is you are watering daily and that is very seldom needed under any circumstances. It causes shallow rooted plants that become water dependent and never develop sufficient root structures to adequately provide nutrients. It is also why your other fruit are splitting.

Grow what ever you want. The odds are that just like the rest of us you will still have some early BER. Water the plants deeply and much less frequently and it will go away all on its own just like it does for everyone else.

Dave

IME if you start from seeds (directly in the garden) rather than transplants the roots will grow much deeper and won't need watering as often. Altho that does not mean you won't suffer BER or splitting when it rains.

While many vegetables such as squash, zuchinni, peppers, tomatoes, etc. can have BER, I will say I have not personally had any BER since using the watering method I describe in this link. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2155180/deep-watering-for-heavy-feeders-growing-on-upright-trellises

I have since added those large plastic pots you get when buying plants because I ran out of buckets and now I don't have to drill holes. I stuff them with leaves, compost, and/or coffee grounds to slow the water down.

While you may be able to get by watering less and less often; that will directly contribute to fruit splitting following a rain storm. And let's face it, you just can't control when it will rain nor how much it will rain. Someone on here suggested to just pick 'em before it rains. And that it is variety specific.

I don't have a problem with mine esp. those that volunteer from last years tomatoes right in the garden seem to need less watering.

The simple answer is to "Just add water".

I almost never water my garden, only when the ground is very very dry, and almost never get BER, or have any complaints from my plants. I can almost count on one hand the number of times I watered this season, which started in March for me, with a lack of snowmelt. There was one prolonged very dry spell I watered I think 3 times, overall I would guess about 7-8 times, a simple spray with a hose.

IMHO people get obsessive and then overwater, causing weak and shallow rooted plants.

Soil nutrition (from day 1) does matter, as it makes strong healthy plants with good circulatory systems.

Now there's the answer... just stop watering your plants. mystearica that should save you lots of work, do let us know how that works for you.

Why so sarcastic? He didn't say don't water...just that people overwater.

"The simple answer is to "Just add water"."

Would seem to ignore the fact that plant roots need air as much if not more so than they need water. Not to mention that it flies in the face of different soil types.

Tons of tomatoes are produced annually by dry framing. None are produced out of bogs. And numerous studies have proven that the majority of people OVER-water their plants so when in doubt, cutting back on water is a far more productive approach than is adding more water.

Dave

Peter said: <I almost never water my garden, only when the ground is very very dry,
and almost never get BER, or have any complaints from my plants.> Why do you think agreeing with him is sarcastic?

digdirt2 said: <And numerous studies have proven that the majority of people OVER-water
their plants so when in doubt, cutting back on water is a far more
productive approach than is adding more water.>

Care to share any of those studies?

If you don't post any I will have to believe what you said is not true.

<Not to mention that it flies in the face of different soil types.> I guess using ones own judgement about their garden is not something that is common or expected?

There is no doubt that roots need O2 as much as they need water. Life is all about balance.

Then there is also this...

Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture and is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions, in water, without soil.

I thought it was common knowledge that water is what moves the nutrients and calcium through the plants. And that it was uneven watering that contributed to BER when the plant is reproducing and needs more nutrients. So people are saying your watering too much and I never water mine and never have any problems.

I couldn't get anyone to agree with me that watering deeply would grow the roots deeply and solve this problem so I agree with your tag team match and you don't like that I agreed?

Something smells fishy rotten here.

I know dave doesn't agree with this but here it is...
https://www.google.com/search?q=hydroponically&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=what%20causes%20tomatoes%20to%20split

And this ...
Blossom End Rot BER causes

I not claiming to have read any studies, I am only sharing what works for me, in my soil and climate, and saying based on that experience it is my belief people tend to overwater their plants.

No one would deny that deep watering is best, when watering is necessary, and certainly not Dave. However you must admit suggesting deep watering on a daily basis irrespective of soil moisture levels contradicts the vast majority of gardening advice.

< However you must admit suggesting deep watering on a daily basis
irrespective of soil moisture levels contradicts the vast majority of
gardening advice.>

On the contrary it certainly does not. Certainly one should not only check the soil moisture but the forecast and what their plants are telling them before and while watering. Do I really need to say all that?

If you have not heard of transpiration it's time to get your Google out.

So what you, dave, and others are suggesting is contrary to sound gardening advice and in fact flies in the face of sound logic. In the heat of summer all of your garden plants will transpire and for them to sustain will need a constant flow of moisture whether you want to believe it or not.

To agree that water carries the nutrients and calcium thru any plant and that BER is the result of uneven watering and further to suggest that reducing or stopping water is the cure is just not logical.

Dave has said many times on here that leaf curl on tomatoes is a sign of over watering now you want to twist this to say BER is a sign of over watering? Well to use your words you are wrong.

I thought forums are a place to share experiences to help others not to tell everyone there is only one way to garden. I am willing to bet that no two gardens or gardeners are the same. IMO there is room in gardening for differences and even experiments.

< I am only sharing what works for me, in my soil and climate, and saying
based on that experience it is my belief people tend to overwater their
plants.>

Yet when I shared what works for me and my experience (as above) you say it <contradicts the vast majority of
gardening advice.>? Remarkable to say the least.

Don't know what your <my belief people tend to overwater their
plants.> is founded on and I don't see any studies posted either.

Gumby I am not sure I follow your rant... so I will just leave you to it then. Take care.

I hope it is not too late to tell people along the east coast to run out and pick all their tomatoes before they get over watered and split.

out gallivanting today. Garden chores tomorrow (sunday). I don't think we're getting rain until Monday.

(Ignoring other posters) The roots of your plant are drowning... or in other words, they can't breathe, this happens in pots most often . Yes it is blossom end rot and has nothing to do about your tomatoes but rather the root health of your plant, forget about your tomatoes... your plant is unhealthy.... the pictures depict a very unhealthy root system caused by too much water and not enough oxygen to the roots.

<FastInk said: Yes it is blossom end rot and has nothing to do about your tomatoes but
rather the root health of your plant, forget about your tomatoes...
your plant is unhealthy.... the pictures depict a very unhealthy root
system caused by too much water and not enough oxygen to the roots.>

Since that disagrees with everything I know about the causes of blossom end rot (BER) - I'm gonna have to ask if you have any supporting literature?

There is so much hate in us gardeners...

Do you think I was too harsh?

Ya know I wasn't going to bother but then I thought "here is a chance to learn something".

I do have Google and have posted my google findings but I'm not about to go off spinning my wheels.

So either there is something or there is not.

Hearing (seeing) nothing the only logical conclusion is that Google was not able to find any supporting documents.

This article was linked in another thread. It describes what causes BER and other tomato problems. It seems tomatoes (like many veggies) like consistent moisture.

the secret to tasty tomatoes

HTH

Gumby I'd be happy to explain, I'll repeat what I said, blossom end rot is all about the health of the root system and little to do with watering. Keep in mind that over watering leads to bad root systems in pots..

To stress my point, over watering on healthy tomato plants will do no damage to the plant itself tho you might see some splitting in the tomatoes do to extra water intake. The tomatoes will crack and burst in this case and then recover

Thanks gumby. Was just about to post that link myself.

<Gumby I'd be happy to explain, I'll repeat what I said,> That is not even close to what I asked you. So I'm gonna say you don't have anything to support your thoughts.

<<FastInk said: Yes it is blossom end rot and has nothing to do about your tomatoes but
rather the root health of your plant, forget about your tomatoes...
your plant is unhealthy.... the pictures depict a very unhealthy root
system caused by too much water and not enough oxygen to the roots.>

Since that disagrees with everything I know about the causes of
blossom end rot (BER) - I'm gonna have to ask if you have any supporting
literature?>>

In case that isn't clear I was asking you to post a link to where you found this information just like I did. Here it is again ...

the secret to tasty tomatoes

Gumby use some common sense, I'm not about to go find you litature? It's a no brainer... excess water will lead to cracking, on the tomatoes, do you doubt this fact? Water a tomatoes to much and it will crack??? Yes? OK so if that is true. Now the next level is blossom end rot,

Gumby, I'm sure I could point you to litature that states both, over watering and under watering is the cause of blossom end rot. Both is true to an extent because it has nothing do do with either.. more so the root system of the plant and the health that it's in

<Gumby use some common sense, I'm not about to go find you litature? It's
a no brainer... excess water will lead to cracking, on the tomatoes, do
you doubt this fact? Water a tomatoes to much and it will crack???
Yes? OK so if that is true. Now the next level is blossom end rot,>

Certainly you don't think I am going to waste my time looking for something you cannot produce? Are you being silly?

Using common sense I have to say that what you are posting about BER is simply not true.

Hey dude, use some logic, excess watering on tomatoes cause cracks in tomatoes yet you say otherwise.

Your trying to say that excess water causes blossom end rot lol which is complete bs

Gumby, I get it, your trying to raise your post count and sound cool whilst having your other accounts back you lol

<FastInk

Your trying to say that excess water causes blossom end rot lol which is complete bs> @22:01

Make your own conclusion, ok? If excess watering is the cause of blossom end rot and has nothing to do with the root systems health, how do you explain the fact that the tomatoes never crack? Surely with over watering the tomatoes would crack? They would!!!! Yet they never crack, they just experience blossom end rot.

Mind you, any healthy tomato plants that gets an excess amount of water will cause the tomato to split and crack, which is normal, because it's over watered, you'll never see this happen with blossom end rot tomatoes tho, why? Cause obviously it has nothing to do with water

It does have a lot to do with watering and over watering tho. I'll let you figure that part out

WOW !!! BER is not from over watering...I agree...over watering will cause fruit crack...You can over water and have perfectly fine, but cracked tomatoes. Just because you find one obscure article through google, does not make it a scientific study, nor a peer reviewed study...it is one person's opinion...a poor opinion..you will also be able to find things on google that have absolutely no benefit to tomatoes...(adding a banana when planting, or sugar when planting)...these things are just thoughts people believe and they post them, then other people come along and think because it on the internet, it's true...it's garbage science.

Consistent moisture is not the same as over watering.

Moist soil is not the same as wet soil.

Me thinks that fruit cracking and BER are opposite ends of the same pole. But what do I know? IF you give your plants the right amount of water (consistent moisture) neither will happen.

Donna I'm glad you agree, and Gumby I think we heard enough from the peanut gallery , which sounds like you're starting to agree :)

<Lol just picking at you gumby, I mean after all you said that over
watering will cause blossom end rot in another thread, funny how nobody
ever experiences tomato cracking and blossom end rot on the same plant
tho..>Does NOT sound like anything Gumby would ever say.
But I'm gonna say I doubt that you can post a link to where you think
you saw that.

Gumby is gonna say that if you do NOT give your tomatoes enuff water
while they are growing and then experience a rainstorm where & when
the plants can take up more water than they are getting from you =
cracking and/or splitting tomatoes will result. It really is that
simple.

So cracking and/or splitting tomatoes and BER are not from overwatering but from not providing adequate water on a consistent basis.

During the heat of summer I water my tomatoes daily sometimes 2x if they need it.

Well then, it has been a few months since the OP first posted but getting back to their issue. It sure sounds to me like he/she was watering too frequently (daily) but at the same time was not giving them enough water (watering shallowly instead of deeply). This was evidenced by the larger tomatoes having blossom end rot and the cherry fruits cracking after a rain. Both of which are caused by inconsistent soil moisture and having the soil go from being dry to moist to dry again (or vice versa). Dry soil and lack of available soil moisture means the plant cannot effectively distribute calcium to all parts of the plant which in turn causes blossom end rot. When the soil is dry and it rains there is a surge of water available and the fruit swells and cracks. If the soil was kept consistently moist then the blossom end rot and the cracking would not be as big of an issue.

Posted by FastInk on September 6th: "(Ignoring other posters) The roots of your plant are drowning... or in
other words, they can't breathe, this happens in pots most often . Yes
it is blossom end rot and has nothing to do about your tomatoes but
rather the root health of your plant, forget about your tomatoes...
your plant is unhealthy.... the pictures depict a very unhealthy root
system caused by too much water and not enough oxygen to the roots."

Root rot from overwatering can cause issues but the plant itself would also be showing signs of this in the form of leaf curling, yellowing, and/or wilting. There is no evidence of this in the OP's photo. On the contrary, the leaves of the plant look healthy. It is highly doubtful that the OP's plants are being overwatered.

Rodney

@<tyler

There is so much hate in us gardeners...> Do you understand yet?

Good post, theforgottenone.