It is all depends on what is the scope of work, dose he need to install sub floor, float cement, dose he pay for the thinset or you, and is that a custom job or standard square area. Best is always to get 2 or more estimate, then you get the feeling if the price is ok, you may hire the one more expensive at the end, but just because he was more qualify and you felt more secure he is qualify to deliver what you paying for.

HI I had Prime Waterproof Dark Roast installed in my kitchen and back of the house, I hate it, I cannot get this floor looking clean. It smudges and never look clean. Has anyone else had problems with this floor. I have tried Bono and Rejuvinate cleaner for LVP floors, but left them looking hazy. My floor is Matt finish. Which seems to show every foot print and sock print. Im going crazy trying to find the best cleaning for this floor. Could it be my mop? I use a microfiber mop. Does anyone else use something else? Suggestions are appriciated.

The "why" of uniform wood flooring in a typical American house is definitely not for mindless conformity. It is to allow the floor to be a canvas for the major decorative elements - furniture, rugs, and art - without calling attention to transitions from room to room, which can tend to chop up the space visually and make it look smaller and cluttered. A small number of houses can have varied floor surfaces and have it look good, e.g. if all of the following is true: * The house is much larger in square footage than typical * The house has high ceilings (10 ft+) * Rooms are well delineated with walls and doors such that each different flooring is well closed off from the others * Each flooring is coordinated with its neighbors as to scale, color (warm vs. cool), mood (formal vs. rustic vs. ??), texture, etc. * Each flooring change is made with a clear purpose based on a logical factor (this is why tile entryways in a wood floor house look fine - it's logical to have a water-resistance material at the front door, or in a bathroom) If the ground floor flooring materials are very grand as to formality and large scale - say polished marble slabs - you're right, they should not be used in smaller- scale rooms upstairs. But a beautiful pale oak 5" or 6" plank would look awesome on both floors. The unity of flooring would provide a calm continuity. You can then layer furnishings, rugs, accessories and art of the correct level of coziness or grandeur in various rooms as appropriate. And that's why we are all giving the same, overwhelmingly good advice.

Hi @Lynn Morford, I hate to jinx things, but now three months in, I LOVE the floors. I fact, I admire them many times a day (good distraction from current CV craziness). There are about a dozen spots where there were dings or tiny cracks, which freaked me out at first, but I'm pretty sure it was just from the movers. I do take care of them like a newborn child, though--sweep, vacuum, wipe, repeat. Overall, I'm very happy with them! @everdebz, we ended up gluing down. Definitely harder on my body that floating but I've learned to wear slippers or socks and I have yoga mats in most rooms to give my feet a little vacation as I walk through the house, lol. In the end, I trusted @joseph_corlett's comment about letting the contractor make the call on what is best for the situation. Granted, I still pine for the perfect floating feel of my old Junckers flooring, but apparently theirs were unique and most other flooring can't float the same way, so... Anyway, the sad fact is, you can't remove glue-downs without destroying the boards. So fingers crossed you never have to! (I put fake wood in my laundry room and we've already had three floods, so thank god for that decision.)