Has anyone used Virginia Hardwoods Prime Aqua shield Vinyl Plank?
Ginny Eiseman
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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ridelkagrl
5 years agoKelly Prince
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone know of Virginia Hardwoods Prime LVP?
Comments (4)This is Prime Cobblestone. There are two distributors of it that I know of, Virginia Hardwoods and Wanke Cascade. The only difference is that Wanke has a pad attached and VH doesn't. It is fairly new product I'm told. Our house is unique in that it gets a lot of light so I was really picky about selecting something that didn't have a plasticky sheen to it. I kept the samples over a 3 day weekend and moved them around and checked on them at different times of the day. Prime was the only one that looked like real wood all the time. We had samples of just about everything under the sun. Everything that Lumber Liquidators, Lowes, Home Depot, etc have. We also had Adura and Coretex in our home. I spent 100s of hours looking for just the right stuff. In the end we went with Prime because it was the only one that passed the test. It also looked the most real. Installed it is simply amazing. My second choice would be the Coretex. I should note, the only one we didn't try was Coretex HD and that one may be as good. I asked more than one sales person who carried both and all said this looked closer to real wood. That was my goal and I'm really happy with our choice. I am happily surprised that it isn't as cold, loud and slippery as laminate. (It is of course louder than carpet). Cobblestone is difficult to photograph (as are most of them I suspect). The photo makes it look like a silver grey. It is not. It is a mix of driftwood grey colors with touches of dark grey and a taupy beige color. I really like the color because it plays nice with cool and warm colors. It looks really nice with our natural maple cabinets and I expected that it would be at best okay. I was prepared to put in marble counter tops to try and tie it together but it wasn't necessary....See MoreHas anyone used Armstrong's vinyl line Pryzm?
Comments (109)The backing is cork so I am not surprised by a vapor barrier requirement. We are having it put down throughout our new home and will be glad to be 100% tile and grout free for the first time in our lives :) I have some old samples that I've tried to damage. It is very difficult to scratch or gouge, the only way I was able to pit it was to take a decent swing at it with a sharp tool that had some weight to it. Makes me wonder if we'll even want or need to fuss around with felt pads under everything (they seem to be magnets for dirt, hair, fur, or whatever floats around before you have a chance to sweep it up.)...See Morevinyl floor over tile
Comments (16)LVP (Luxury vinyl PLANK) is often SUPER THIN (like 1/8"). When vinyl is soft and flexible and THIN it often sinks INTO the groves and hollows sitting BELOW it. We call this telegraphing. It happens to ANYTHING that is THIN and FLEXIBLE. And I mean anything (carpet, lino, vinyl, paint, etc). This is the BIGGEST PROBLEM with laying LVP over tile. You are almost GUARANTEED to see the "tile" floor underneath. The SECOND biggest problem with LVP (or LVT...they are interchangeable terms for some of us) is it normally DOES NOT allow soft underlayment (the squishy stuff used under RIGID laminate or hardwood). And there is your SECOND issue. You must put the vinyl DIRECTLY over the old tile. As I see it, there are TWO OPTIONS for you: 1. Do this properly = jack out the tile, grind the subfloor, throw down Self Leveling Compound (SLC) to give your floor a lovely SMOOTH surface for the vinyl to sit "nicely". The above can cost $2/sf to remove the tile and another $2/sf to grind/level what is left. 2. You SINK the tiles in CEMENT and then lay the vinyl over top. To sink/float the tiles in cement, you need to GRIND the tiles (gives the tile surface a rough finish = something for the concrete to grab onto) and then you have to PRIME the tile (gives the concrete something to hold on to) and then you have to FLOAT the floor (coating of concrete) so that it is smooth. Then you wait for that to dry and then a final sanding/grinding to get rid of any small bumps/bubbles that are ALWAYS present. This should cost $2/sf for materials and $2-$3/sf for LABOUR (that's A LOT of grinding). Sigh....as you can see you are "damned if you do and damned if you don't". I ALWAYS vote to jack out the tiles for one SIMPLE reason: reduction of floor heights. If you ADD more concrete to your tiles, you will cause plenty of upset with your door/trim/appliance heights. That tiny 1/8" vinyl just added 1/2" (or more) of floor height. And that could be a deal breaker for all the doors, appliances and trim in the space. Not to mention the floor height changes where the vinyl meets anything else. There is NO SUCH THING as "cheap" subfloor preparation. You either pay the Piper on the way in, or you pay the Piper on the way out. And if you do it after he leaves, you could find the price is DOUBLE what it should have been - simply because the job had to be done twice: once the wrong way and then once the "right way"....See MoreLooking for reviews for Aqua Allira flooring that came out last year.
Comments (1)I always laugh at the “luxury” too . As for the new flooring IMO probably too new to get many reviews Core tec has a good history so IMO go with them . I like vinyl flooring and use it for my clients often and if you are told to not go wood then IMO a better choice that tile....See MoreGinny Eiseman
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