Newbie having issue with raised beds
laurenmarie01
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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rgreen48
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Newbie with 2 new raised beds
Comments (3)It really depends on how many of each of those you plan to plant. If you limit yourself to one each of the squashes you can probably do it. The carrots are going to take up a good amount of space. I have never had a lot of luck with trellising my squashes, but others on this forum have. Bush beans also take up a good amount of room. I would very carefully plot things out before you plant, and check with the square foot gardening forum for how many of each things to plant in a square foot. I think beans are like 9 a square foot and squashes are 1 per 2-3 square feet or something. Sorry i can't remember off the top of my head....See MoreNewbie Here: Can We Talk About Raised Bed Planters?
Comments (5)Hi Lynn, love your adobe look walls in the front and your view in the back is wonderful. I'm glad you plan on preserving your view in the back and think it's great that you're thinking of water conservation. Since you're close to Santa Fe I hope you've been to High Country Gardens/Santa Fe greenhouse. I've been buying plants mail order from them for fifteen years and I understand they have some great waterwise landscaping at thier store in Santa Fe. In this month(Sept.) issue of Sunset magazine there is a Santa Fe landscape with adobe walls and a planter against the wall like what you are talking about. It does have a lot of plants in the ground also but it is a great backyard landscape by Wilder Landscaping. Your idea of all raised planters sounds very attractive and ambitious. I know you where conscerned about the heat situation with all that masonry. All your walls would act as a heat sink collecting the warmth during the day and then radiating it out at night. You would have cooler temperatures in the mornings from the walls and warmer temperatures at night. About the planters using less water I can't get around this idea. Planters because they are exposed to the hot summer air on the sides as well as from overhead actually heat up the soil more than in ground plantings. This makes them use more water not less. Of course you are talking about other issues too such as ease of planting and not having to deal with your rocky soil. Mulch is a great way to help keep soil cooler and use less water, rock mulch for more deserty type plants and organic mulch for others. And your shade trees will really cool things off for you too. If you use plants well adapted to your area you could really keep your water use down and not have to feel like you need all the planters....See MoreNewbie Asks, 'Can I Make A 'Tufa Raised Bed?'
Comments (12)Actually, several professional websites say that they have used ALL perlite and NO sand, without any loss of strength. I haven't tried that yet. I'm not sure if they use perlite of all one size, or a mix of sizes to fill in the tiny gaps in the mix to make it more dense. Adding some silica flume might help with strength, too, but many people don't want to give away all their hard-won secrets. YOU are the one who determines how much water is added to any mix. I know you've seen concrete "poured", but that kind of pourable mix is too liquid for the way we mostly use it around here. It's okay for 4" thick slabs, but not for what we do. Just like you would with tufa, you add water carefully so it doesn't get too sloppy. More water than you need will weaken the concrete, as will not enough. In fact, I would say that nearly all the rules that apply to tufa (with the exception of the addition of organic ingredients) also apply to concrete (regular or lightweight). You want a fairly stiff mix (relatively speaking), that is neither too dry (crumbles when you squeeze a handful) nor too wet (drips, or slumps too much). A test handful that you squeeze should retain its shape well, but still be malleable enough to do as you want. Before you start this fairly large, complicated project, I hope you try a few small experiments of a similar nature. Since you're using mesh, form a section like you will be doing in your project, and fill/apply the mix. Discover what kind of mix is best for YOUR project. See how it handles, and if you should be doing something some other way, find the easiest tools to use for packing and shaping. What you THINK should work doesn't always happen, and you have to change your plan fast. Try to do it on a small experiment rather than a big project. Discovering a mistake with a wheelbarrow load of mix that's ready to go can get you peeved in a hurry. Besides, then you have to stop and dig a big hole to dump the mix into..... Sue...See MoreRaised beds and compost - newby question
Comments (8)Maybe, possibly there was a need to double dig those areas and there are many garden writters that do champion that, but I also think those people are masochists. As others have stated do not be overly concerend with what you have only with what you are going to do about that. Start by adding a lot of organic matter, and it might be that you would need to use peat moss (shudder) because that might be what is most plentiful and easiest for you to get. Save the sawdust to use as mulch, because it you mix that into the soil you will have problems with Nitrogen deficiency, otherwise add what you have and get more. These simple soil tests will help you determine when you have almost enough organic matter in your soil; 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See Morelaurenmarie01
7 years agolaurenmarie01
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoidaho_gardener
7 years agotheparsley
7 years agokimmq
7 years agotoxcrusadr
7 years ago
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