Separate electrical outlet for a freezer?
davidplank
7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
Electrical outlets, phone/cable(jacks)outlets.....
Comments (16)I'm in the planning stages but have put tons of thought into this. Hopefully I won't have to tweak it too much when I do the framing walkthrough. (You really should walk though the framed house before finalizing the locations.) No Christmas package (don't decorate for holidays) or intercom. Outlets at a few locations specifically for nighlights (in bathrooms and in hallways) so we don't have to flip on the overhead lights in order to use the facilities in the middle of the night. Switch for the bathroom fan between the toilet and the vanity (instead of with the other switches near the door) so that it is accessible from the toilet and standing in front of the vanity. Duplex outlets near the TV area. Duplex outlet mounted higher on the wall than normal for the main phone area which will be a nich in the wall. Duplex outlets to either side of all potential bed headboards. Oulets dedicated for cell phone charging in an elevated nich. Duplex outlet, tv cable (for internet) and phone (for fax) anywhere that I plan to (or even might) have a computer. Outlet immediately beside the loft railing in case we ever want to put lights across the railing we can plug them in without a tripping hazzard. Although we probably won't need them, I am putting one oulet just inside each WIC. In my workshop, I'll put an outlet 5' high so that I can put a shelf under it to hold a small radio and clock but still be able to put tables or work space under it. Outlets closer together than Code requires so that it's more convenient. Switches for a room at EVERY entrance into that room. (Our current house doesn't have switches at every entrance and it's a pain.) We will have a small vestibule (for guest entry) and small mudroom for our entry from the garden that are beside each other. Their lights will be on the same switch so that when we walk from outside, into the mudroom, into the entry (from interior access) and then finially into the main house we don't have to flip lights on and off every few steps. Just once when we enter the mudroom and again when we enter the main house. Don't forget electrical service for any undercabinet lights. There are past threads about outlets that are mounted so that they are accessible from inside cabinet drawers so that clothing irons or hairdryers can be left plugged in all of the time and stored in the drawers. I'm considering that, too. In a similar manner, outlet inside of mixer lifter kitchen cabinet for mixer. Outlets and switch for pendant lights on the kitchen island. Outlet for microwave that will be raised above countertop height. Exterior grade outlets at multiple places outside that are easily accessible from the porch and patio areas (not for Christmas lights). Outlet at attic access incase I need to plug in a light there since we will have minimal lighting there....See MoreIs the electric outlet position too low?
Comments (4)If you put in an "old work" box and the current location is covered by the baseboard, you wouldn't even have to patch and paint. I'd tell him to move it, unless there is a really short cord or something on the washlet that requires it be that low. I have to put an outlet in behind my toilet for the towel warmer - builder wouldn't put one underneath the window b/c it's too close to tub (code says 60") but I hate having the cord snake behind the toilet to go to the countertop outlet. I'm not aware of any code about toilets and washlets - if the washlet requires power and has less than 5ft of cord, I would assume you need to put a receptacle close by, and the higher the better. treasure - I can't imagine all the patching - I am horrible at patching, even with matte paint, I can see the patch in my FR under the window, I don't want to move lights in my master bath and DR and have new sconce less than a ft away shining right on my patch! But gotta do it - or live with lights not centered....See MoreSeparation of Data Lines from Electric Lines
Comments (29)Ron, I can't see the need to get hostile toward anybody on this topic. You and I and many others have lots of experience with cabling. I agree with your statements as my comment stated. In our power plants we brought the Belden twisted pairs into the cabinets with the jacket stopped at times a foot and a half or more from the device, (RTD monitors, recorder or PLC, or what ever), and untwisted the pairs because they went to different locations. This never caused a problem. As you know what does cause a problem or can cause one is grounding the shield at both ends of the cable. We usually had a 5 or 6 ft long copper ground buss that we made up( drilled and tapped) and mounted it in the cabinet. There we terminated the bare shielding wires from the many cables. Soldered Burndy lugs on all ground and signal carrying conductors. Clamp or pressure terminated wires were used on some equipment that had those kinds of terminations, however they were avoided as much as possible. One problem with them was it made it harder to lift and lay back down the wires during troubleshooting or testing as the wires fray and are difficult to get back under the screw, especially when energized. And we had one guy that always made the strands of wire look like a worn out paint brush when he laid down those wires. At least 1/4 of the strands were sticking out. Terrible! One time we got a new pre-wired cabinet in from a manufacture and when we were putting the equipment into service it was not working. So naturally we looked at our own wiring and found no wires laid down wrong. After much troubleshooting we found where the manufacture had stripped the wire correctly but got the insulation under the screw where the conductor did not make contact. Boy that drove us crazy! Anyway, from one old sparky to another, good luck....See MoreQuestion regarding 2 freezers on same outlet
Comments (23)"Best to put something visible on the circuit or invest in a freezer alarm." Other options. Turn the power strip over so the switch is facing down or to the side. Put a piece of tape over the switch. Design, build, and install a $500 cover to prevent rakes and pigeons and other objects from operating the switch. Hire a security service to hourly check that the freezer does not lose power due to falling rakes. Don't store rakes over or adjacent to the freezer. You should post a warning sign to help your wife not store items inappropriately. Plug a radio into the power strip and investigate the loss of power should the music die... unless it is the anniversary of February 3, 1959. Hire a lawn service for your yard and donate your rakes to Purple Heart. Use a power strip that doesn't have a switch. And the last I can come up with, get rid of one of the freezers so there is no need for a power strip that has a switch. Absolutely incredible job of making a mountain out of a mole hill....See MoreRon Natalie
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7 years agoRon Natalie
7 years ago
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