Does it make sense to create a cold air return in the basement?
hostas_for_barb
7 years ago
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tigerdunes
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Cold Air return
Comments (10)I personally would really like to help you but it would be way too difficult and time consuming without a lot of up front technical information. Most of us like to "do it right" from the ground up. I think you'll find that fooling with this and that will take up a lot of time to maybe some but,no real efficient end. I understand your need to pull the purse strings. But if your duct work is sweating, that is certainly part of your problem. Is this flexible duct inside a fiberglass insulation sleeve or when you say flexible duct, is it various sizes of dryer vent? If so, you may have to start replacing it anyhow if the insulation got wet, as money allows. I would suggest doing so with rigid insulated ducting. Join the duct run of the month club and by the end of next year you might be finished. This is obviously an add-on unit before you got there. There is no way for us to determine if it was sized properly for the home and if the coils are matched properly. It almost sounds like a mobile home unit adapted to your house. The guy before you might have been saving money too and cheated on the sizing. Your blower unit speeds will also need to be known. I think your best bet would be to go to the book store, library, on line and educate yourself on air distribution. For example, the size of a room will determine if that room should have one or two supply registers and/or returns and what size they should be. You'll need to know the pro's and con's of mounting the supply's or returns high or low. Although the learning will not necessarily be that hard, it is a must have. Just the little information I mentioned here is a drop in the bucket for all the things that must be known and considered. Either you learn or pay someone who has already learned or you can use a lot of coat hanger wire and duct tape and hope for the best. Go ahead and shove the return up through the opening if you can, that's better than doing nothing to try to make things better. If you have that much play, you are losing a lot of air flow due to resistance and excessive length. You shouldn't have any sags at all. Even metal ductwork not properly installed can cost you in proper distribution. For example, a 90 degree elbow placed in the wrong place and not properly installed, can cause you to lose 50-60 percent of air flow, due to blockages and resistance caused by a vortex of the air within that bend. Just too much to really effectively cover here, at least in my opinion....See More2 cold-air returns in small apartment; can I block one?
Comments (2)It sounds to me like your duct system has leaks that cold air is getting into your system. Even if your ductwork is in concrete it should not drop your air temp that much unless cold air is getting in also. I would start with temperature readings of the return air temp at the return compared to the actual return air temp at the furnace. I would then check the supply temp at the furnace right after being heated and compare it to the supply temp. You might have to put some small holes in at the furnace so don't forget to seal them....See MoreBad Return Air Duct in Basement
Comments (8)Thanks, Mike, Yes, it's kind of a separate room, drywall on all 4 sides with 2 doors and a vent for inverse pressure(that's what one HVAC guy said)(it's just an opening on the furnace room and living room. Yes, the furnace is high efficiency type. (Lennox EL196E) Yes, there is a hot water tank next to it. Yes, there is a Rubatex insul Tube 180 3/4. I think this is where it's getting air for combustion. Not sure how to measure the size of the furnace. I have closed the front opening in the duct. I have left the top opening, now I think the air will be sucked in from there. the area between the duct and wood you see in the image(i think its called joist) is leading to the furnace room, My concern is, this big of an opening is sucking all the air and the vents on the 2nd floor is not able to suck or are low on return air. if there is low suction on the 2nd floor then no return vent on the 1st floor can cause issues???...See MoreHow to quiet cold air return?
Comments (8)The noise is loud for both heating and cooling, with one set of ductwork. I don't know the BTU rating, but when I replaced it a few years back, it was sized adequately for the house, but we didn't make any ductwork changes. It's a split system with a gas furnace and either a 2 1/2 or 3 ton condenser. The house is 2400 sq feet on 2 levels, with another 1000 sq feet in a finished basement. I asked the guy who installed the system a few years back, and he said, 'that's how these houses were built', and that there was nothing that could be done....but he sold his business about 2 years later, so he may not have wanted to mess with it. There is a 2nd return on the 2nd floor (pic 1). I poked a little further, and found out a bit more - (pic 2 below): While the vent grate is 19"X19" along with the duct right behind it, it shrinks to 12"X12" after about 4 inches. I don't know if the ductwork is the same for the upper floor, but if that 12"X12" duct is too small, that would explain a lot. That horizontal run goes 51" from the wall before turning 90 degrees down to the HVAC system. There's no way to put a lower vent on the same wall, because there's a closet in the way. (3rd pic in the previous post shows the closet, and the duct runs right over the top. Interesting thing is that the 51" run puts the vertical section on the other side of the closet, right next to the stairwell. There's probably room to put an upper and lower intake in the stairwell, or one on the side and one in the front, although I'd want to camouflage it as much as possible so it doesn't stick out. The pic below shows where the 12"X"12 51" long horizontal run pulls from the living room, and the bigger box shows the 12"X24" vertical run that comes down from the 2nd floor, and goes down to the basement where the blower is. Seems like having a shorter horizontal run, and 1 or 2 larger openings would reduce the overall air speed and noise, as well as making the living room a lot more pleasant. Then I'd only have to figure out how to reduce the visual impact of whatever openings are on the stairwell wall. Does that make sense? Is the next order of business to get a real HVAC guy on site to ask these same questions? Any other ideas or suggestions before I start making phone calls?...See Morehostas_for_barb
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