What does your local code say about range burner surface/range top to lower edge of hood minimum? In many locales it is a 30" minimum. The 54" guide (36" cab/countertop + 18" counter top surface to lower edge of upper cabinet) plus 12" (remainder of 30" for presumed lower edge of vent hood) puts the vent hood edge at 66" height or 5'6". Right in your eyes as you said. With 8 feet ceilings (96") that leaves a total of 30" to ceiling minus the 18" height of the Broan or 12" below ceiling. Move the Broan lower edge up by 6" to 72" from floor (6'), add 18" height of Broan and you are left with 6" to ceiling which can be covered with stainless ducting. Kas, a GW venting expert, emphasizes depth of hood over burners as very important. Perhaps he will weigh in here. For this reason, it may be good to go to 36" for lower edge of the Broan rather than sacrifice it's 24" depth of capture. This 72" (6") height of lower Broan vent hood edge may help minimize your spouse having to bend down while cooking too. That's a great range hood btw. Integrates well with Broan make up air adaptor too. I'd think twice before giving that hood up for placement over your Wolf. Is it too late to move your right and left side cabinets 3" laterally to allow better access to them? I often see that on Houzz for this reason (not for capture reasons). Hope this helps and that my calculations are correct and clear. I'm a tad math challenged. Good luck to you.

I am going to try to address the last few comments and questions comprehensively. Prep sink: I have thought about swapping the sink and trash like a few people have recommended, but feel the corner is probably the best placement for me, with the faucet in the back corner. Having it in the corner allows for 30" of work surface to the left of the sink on the short end of the island and 36" between the sink and setting area on the long side of the island. If I switch the sink and trash, then I just have 18" on each side. Trash: I think it makes sense to keep the trash and recycling on the north side of the island, near the prep sink, since a lot of recyclable packaging will be coming from the pantry, fridge and freezer. I picture rinsing veggies at the sink and then moving them onto a cutting board just to the right of the sink to chop. I am trying to decide if the trash would be more convenient right next to the sink (where I am likely to stand) or if it should move down to the right a little more. So, should it be sink, trash, storage, seating or sink, storage trash, seating? I will need a second small trash can near the clean up sink and DW to scrape plates off. I am still trying to figure out how to line up the lowers on that wall. Pantry: Our last house had a 17" wide pantry cabinet with ROTS in the kitchen, then a nearby laundry room with 8' long of 18" deep shelving, 5 shelves high with the highest at about 6'. I used maybe 4' of the 18" deep shelves for cans and bags and boxes of food. The rest of the shelving held overflow pots and pans, picnic basket, Costco paper towel and TP purchases and random house hold items. I guess that is why I figured that having a 4' wide pantry with 18" deep shelves (plus extra storage behind the doors) plus the 24" pantry with ROTS would suit our needs well. I must admit the primary reason for replacing the 24" wine tower with a 24" tall pantry cabinet was to maintain symmetry with the 24" oven cabinet at the other end of the wall. 30" on each side of the range was what we had at the last house and it worked well. 24" was too small, but I think 30" will be plenty. I bought a steam oven on clearance, so I will have two 24" ovens to place. I am debating between stacking them together in one cabinet and having the other deep cabinet be pure pantry, or putting one oven at about counter height in each tower, with storage above and below. We have lots of wall cabinets in our garage where we store the huge packages of paper towels, TP, diapers, wipes, etc from Costco, with just small amounts going into the house. We considered a walk-in pantry like the architect drew, but you lose a lot of storage space in the middle of the walk-in. We plan to do the reach-in pantry from the kitchen side, with an 18-20" deep hall closet immediately behind (pretty easily accessible from kitchen). The 9'8" hall closet will have a few feet of shelves for linens, shelves for cleaning products and paper products, shelves for games, and standing room for the vacuum, steam mop, ironing board, etc. There will be a 26" deep x 8' wide coat closet further down the hall. Hopefully this will give us enough storage space in the house. Maybe I can design the kitchen reach-in pantry more like a double door closet (with the doors going down to the floor), rather than like a cabinet. Thank you all for your help in working through these decisions.

I think water pressure has a lot to do with splashing--whether it is a low faucet or high faucet. I have a high gooseneck faucet with a 10" undermount sink. When the faucet is in spray mode, I get splatter (just like I did from the old cheapo handheld sprayer I grew up with). In stream mode I get no splashing. The water in spray mode seems to come out with much more force and I can fill a pot much faster with it. The distance between my counter top and the place where the water came out in my old faucet really bothered me. I felt like I had to snake a stock pot between the faucet and sink edge to get it into the sink. I love the freedom the new faucet gives. Also, no matter which faucet I use, the closer I hold an item to the water source (especially spoons), the more splash I get. I don't notice water splashing any more in our deep sink/goose neck than I did in our old shallow sink/1970s (or before) faucet. I would think turning the water flow down a bit (not full force) would help with any splashing problems.

Functionally, a scullery only works if you have a scullery maid! As in you have one family member dedicated to taking all of the dirty prep castoffs and whisking them over the the cleanup sink to place them in the two DW's. And since that person IS a family member these days rather than hired help, you need to be concerned with not isolating them and making them feel like hired help. I think you need to delve into a lot more theory on zone planning and dissect the functions that you need to take place in your kitchen as they will be divided up by your family members. Figure out how many people will be doing which tasks. Then design the kitchen for that. Most people err on the side of "I want a 10' island with white shaker cabinets" and never actually do a workflow diagram that is broken down by family member. Start with storage, both cold and dry. Then work your way through prep for top of the stove tasks, baking or roasting tasks, and any cold salad type prep tasks. Think through how each of those tasks differ and think about the detritus from each of those tasks. Then keep those work diagrams from having too many intersecting points to keep conflict to a minimum. That's how you plan a kitchen in a new build. And don't leave it to the "left over" space in the build either. If the kitchen is the most important room in a build, as it is to many people, you design the kitchen FIRST, and then build the rest of the house around it. PS, most architects don't cook and design abysmal kitchens. They may look pretty, but rarely does one function well.