By chance is this your first ceramic cook top? If so, you probably are not applying enough elbow grease (not downward pressure, you just keep rubbing until it's gone). I have a different brand, have had it over a year and never have any spots didn't clean off, but some with more work than others. I've had ceramic cooktops for 20 years, and with regular electric, one learns how to really scrub those babies to get them spotless. Compared to them, those with induciton like to comment on how they seem to clean themselves, but it's really not quite that easy, just easy compared to dealing with baked on gunk from regular electric ceramic cooktops.

Interesting - I doubt very much the ceiling's drywall because it takes a lot to make that cardboard split - no doubt it's fibrous plaster or cast plaster. Irrespective of what's causing it, (don't overwater the foundations either) make sure it's not too dry indoors, humidify a little if it's well under say 45% The cracks themselves can be sealed with a FLEXIBLE gap filler, make sure it's a flexible water clean up one, force it in gently with a thin flexible scraper, and you can gently wipe over with a slightly damp cloth to remove any excess (if you work carefully with the scraper there won't be much excess) and see how you go. if it's a white ceiling, you may not need to repaint. There is a boat-building technique to stop cracks, basically you drill a hole in the path of the crack - being round, when the crack reaches the hole, it'll stop. I'd exercise caution when applying this technique, though, not knowing what the ceiling's made of, condition etc. If you drill small holes, say 1/8 inch, (you will need to be accurate with position) you should be safe enough. Do you have access to the ceiling space above? In older places with lathe and plaster and plasterboard, they often sag with time, in extreme situations, you can prop up the sag with a broad piece of plywood, supported from underneath, then up in the ceiling place (after removing insulation and dust etc) pour liquid casting plaster - plaster of paris - over the top of the sagging part, and allow to set (don't pour it into any light fittings, vents or electrics) - this will reinforce/hold up the ceiling, I suppose if you were clever you could reinforce the plaster with some sort of material like you were fibreglassing, even with, say, fibreglass cloth? (you want to avoid flammable materials up there) Then, the idea is, you have a solid, no longer sagging ceiling, and you apply a thin skimcoat over the underside, to seal/cover the cracks.

You don't have to worry about the home cracking in half, but you should contact the responsible party for repairing the problem. Addressing it now may mitigate any further problems that might develop if left unchecked. I don't know how your contract reads to know who is responsible. If you hired the set-up company yourself, then perhaps it's up to you to contact them. If they were hired by your dealer, then it should be their responsibility to contact the set commpany, if indeed it is a set problem. I'd try the dealer as the first step. Even if they are not responsible for fixing the problems, they should at least be aware of it. If I were selling a product, I would like to know that the people who is installing it is doing their job properly, or at least addressing the occasional unforseen problem that may arise even with the most competent and conscientious company. Most dealers and set crews take pride in their work and should work with you to correct problems, particularly problems that my get worse if left unaddressed. Wayne

Oh - good idea about putting a line of caulk on before painting, never thought of that. Thanks. Altho in my bedroom the crown molding has caulking all along the top where it meets the ceiling, and in two years two sides of the room have separated. I thought maybe the caulk he used wasn't elastic enough, if there is such a thing,to give and take when the house settles now and then. I mentioned it to him one day and he said it should have been because it's a latex caulk. Yes, I know what you mean about old beadboard installations. My friend has a century home with wainscoting (same thing, right?) probably 5' up the walls around her kitchen. The white paint is old and slightly yellow (bet it was oil paint) but I see no separation. What is the secret, as you asked? We need to find out. Unless - the old wainscoting or beadboard was nailed on one single board at a time? Would that make a difference? As far as how the beadboard panels fit together, I'm not positive but I think there was just a straight edge, no lip or groove for the next panel to slide onto. But I'll ask John the next time I see him. He used a glue before he nailed them together. Did he miss gluing this particular panel?