Calling all Calathea experts!
californiascout
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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californiascout
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Calling Calathea experts
Comments (4)I read the care page and that's an alright resource, but I have some to add as well. First off, let me say Samson looks *great.* He's handsome and if you'd like to do a trade next year I am *very interested.* Besides the soil test to see whether or not Samson needs more moisture, look at the leaves. If they're beginning to look dull then you may need to increase humidity or water by putting a water tray below the plant. Make sure the plant is elevated out of the water so the roots don't rot, though. You may use pebbles or an inverted terracotta pot (or a terracotta tray). Moist, but not soggy soil. What kind of water are you using to water Samson with? I use filtered as we have hard water in the tap and it can cause leaf spotting. You may also water with fish water when you clean the tank, if you have one. 60-70 degrees F is optimal temperature for Calatheas. The higher above 70, the more humidity is needed. Do I see some new growth on Samson in the middle there? If so, he's not going to bloom this year. It's okay - you'll just have to wait. His growing season is March - October which is also when it's most important to have the humidity higher and the soil moist. In the resting period, November - February it's okay to let the first two or three inches to dry out before rewatering. During his growing season you can give him some plant food (I probably would not if you feed him fish water or only use it at 1/4 strength once per month). You may water him with 1/4 strength food each time you water and work your way up to 1/2 strength after about three or four waterings and taper it back off toward the end of the growing season. Be careful not to burn the leaves with too much fertilizer. If you forget to water Samson and he's extra dry don't fertilize. Use regular water and wait half an hour. Then, you may rewater with fertilizer without the worry of burning him. Onto his soil. Have you repotted him this year? If he's rootbound he's ready for the next pot size up. After a year the soil starts to break down so even if he's not rootbound he'd like some new soil. It needs to drain well, but retain moisture well too. That's all for now! Hope I've helped a bit. I have a Calathea majestica. I call her 'Cally.'...See MoreCalling all Fiddle Leaf experts! What is wrong with my FLF?!
Comments (11)its called mechanical damage ... is it always outside... any windstorms in the last month ... cats.. dogs.. children .. you when you move it around.. shipping from grower to seller to you ... bottom line.. its nbd ... if its putting out new leaves.. take off the ugliest ... and if its mechanical ... then you sprayed form nothing.. its is preferred you actually find something to treat.. before you start applying any kind of goos... water when a plant needs water ... insert finger and find out ... whether or not every 5 days is reasonable.. is left to you to figure out .. its not really about what the media surface looks like ... humidity is rarely an issue ... but this doesnt look like that ... id think it would be more brown all over. .and rather crispy ... and just for the heck of it ... how about a pic of the whole ... did you just show us a few damaged leaves.. and the rest looks good??? ken ps: wait a minute.. down under ... you are just leaving summer... right... was it outside all summer long.. how bad was summer ... how windy ... etc ... but do keep in mind.. all plants shed a few of the oldest leaves.. and this often happens in winter ... the whole plant pic might help .......See MoreCalling all large tile format installation experts! Advice please
Comments (13)Cool tile! We have this size on our floors and no issues. It’s been there for 3 years. We are having the same guys install 48” x 48” on our bathroom floor and walls in a few weeks. They are very meticulous and have experience with all kinds of tile, including larger format ones. We did a lot of research before calling for quotes. When deciding on the installer, we asked for references and asked them questions on how they planned to install, what material they were using etc. That helped us get a good installer. Best of luck with your project!...See MoreCalling All Lilac Experts
Comments (6)I've seen plenty of this over years of growing Japanese and Korean lilacs. The general agreement among the people I've talked to is that it's freeze damage occurring sometime during the late fall to early spring. An opportunistic canker may have increased the severity of the injury as well. The wound doesn't present itself until the healthy part of the trunk has grown and the bark in the damaged area has dried out and started to curl back and/or slough off. So you usually won't notice it until mid-summer or later. Worth noting, I have only seen this so far on lilac trees planted in heavier soils. This could suggest that the afflicted trees have been possibly over-saturated heading into winter. From what I have witnessed, your tree should heal over as the top looks quite healthy despite the wound. It's basically wait-and-see now. The trees I've seen succumb to rot from this usually weren't very vigorous or healthy to begin with. This sort of injury also happens frequently on Norway maple and less commonly on sugar maple here in zone 4 Minnesota....See Morecaliforniascout
7 years agotheparsley
7 years agoaviolet6
7 years agocaliforniascout
7 years ago
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