Stratification (in the fridge w/moist vermiculite) was a required process both times I grew American Persimmon from seed. I never bothered with bleach and never had fungal problems. The seeds that still had some fruit/sugars on them got a bit fuzzy but that didn't stop germination or seedling success.

I have also found they are a deep rooted species and don't seem to like/appreciate being grown in containers, especially shallow ones.

I specialize in sprouting mostly tree seeds - and American Persimmons have been one of the easiest so far.

I typically just repurpose a clear plastic drink cup and fill it with organic compost soil.

I find such cups (vs wider pots) best for seedlings because they allow deeper root growth and are easier to transplant later from since you don't have to dig as wide a hole. Most tree seedling roots need more depth, and not so much width, in growing space. So, a lot of pot width is basically just wasted space. With narrower cups, you can store more of them together due to their smaller footprints. And plus, I'm using something that would otherwise just go into the recycle waste stream faster...

Anyhow, after inserting a seed into each cup (without scarification needed), you then just have to wait about 3.5 months for them to finally sprout up. Only thing I might do during that waiting period is water the soil once in a while to keep it somewhat moist. Note that most tree seeds DO take much longer to sprout compared to say, annual vegetables. Quality generally takes more time!

Now once these American Persimmon seedlings finally sprout, they are very robust and will grow fairly tall with a thin woody stem and large leaves early on... I mean, relatively-speaking, of course. It will still take probably around ~2 years+ from planting the seed to grow to a foot-tall seedling, to give you a rough idea. Again, these are trees, not "weeds!"

But definitely a great native, fruit-bearing tree to propagate, though!!! I've found ripe American Persimmons to be the sweetest I've ever tasted! So, I really wish more people would plant a whole lot more!

I appreciate the responses to my kind of vague question. I'm in Kentucky and have a small farm. I've planted two persimmon I ordered from an online nursery but I really like the idea of having several on the farm and we have a lot of woods so I'm sure the deer would appreciate them.

After seeing some images of full grown persimmon trees blanketed in snow with those orange globes still attached I knew I had to have some on the farm.

Hate to disappoint you, but most American persimmon fruit will be long gone before any snow flies in KY. Some D.virginiana hold their fruit well into winter - but in my experience, those are 'spitters' ... not at all tasty... though deer, possum, 'coons may eat them once they finally do drop.

As to the seeds you've ordered... I'd hope that whomever is purveying them, would have held them cold and moist over winter. You should inquire as to whether they've been cold/moist stratified. If they've been dry and at room temp all winter... I don't know how viable they're gonna be. If that's the case... soaking prior to a stint in the fridge is in order.

If I may piggy back onto this thread (my apologies). I have grown Asian persimmons from seed (kaki type -- no stratification necessary at all), but don't know if they come true for good fruit. If they do, would I be better off grafting to an American persimmon seedling rootstock? They grow in the wild here.

Or my seedlings don't come true, would they work just as well as a rootstock, and then I can graft my one edible Asian persimmon onto my seedlings? Or are most Asian persimmons in the Eastern US grafted onto American persimmon rootstock?

Dave,

I've got no idea what those kaki seedlings will end up producing. But... all the named varieties were just a seedling at some point... we just don't know how many thousands of their siblings were discarded along the way.

So far as I know, most eastern US nurseries use D.virginiana as an understock for virtually all D.kaki selections. Is it because of availability, hardiness, compatibility....? I dunno. But, I would presume you could graft D.kaki varieties onto kaki seedlings with no worries.