gardenatlanta, I have these three: Enchantress (or Enchanter) Blooms: small, magenta; they seemed to ball a lot the first year Foliage: exceptionally well foliated - very bushy, typical tea leaves but on the small side, very pretty Thorns: haven't noticed, can't see the canes for the leaves Bloom frequency: last summer (it's first) it seemed almost constantly in bloom Fragrance: don't know, too low to the ground Disease resistance: excellent SIZE: rather small - one year old and about 2' tall and 3-1/2' wide but very healthy General Schablikine Almost a year in the ground here Blooms: kind of irregularly shaped, kind of untypical but I like them, shades of brick red & pink Foliage: well foliated, fairly tall but twiggy not vase-shaped but mine's a year & a half old so has some maturing to do, leaves can get this alligator rippled pattern in them, not on all leaves Thorns: typical for a tea, not huge, not a lot Bloom frequency: blooms in cycles probably 6 weeks apart approximately Fragrance: probably light tea Disease resistance: excellent, old leaves get a few spots and some yellow and drop off SIZE: probably medium - about 4-1/2' tall and 4-1/2' wide now but not yet filled out in all directions La Sylphide Blooms: pink with a sheerness to them; in heat they lighten to pale pink; nodding; very delicate and feminine in character Foliage: normal Thorns: typical Bloom frequency: not sure, not a heavy bloomer in its first year Fragrance: don't know Disease resistance: very good SIZE: on the small side - about 3' tall and 3' wide at 1-1/2 yrs old Sherry

Mine is the climbing sport. This is her at the end of her Spring show. I am in south Louisiana and she is my absolute favorite of all my roses. I don’t care if she balls. There are SO many blooms that don’t that it doesn’t matter if some do. I adore this rose. She has few thorns and laughs at pests and diseases and her canes are dainty. shes not like New Dawn. She’s very pliable. I just love her. A happy easy going floriferous old fashioned cabbage rose who doesn’t quit. Her foliage is a lovely green too.

Sounds a lot like my backyard. My garden is highest in the middle, consistently slopes downward, has a somewhat steeper slope (dropping a good 3 feet in a couple feet) about two thirds of the way to the property line, is lower on both sides, but quite a lot lower on one side than the other. I put taller shrubs on the low side, shorter ones on the high side. BUT, I also had much different drainage conditions from one side to the other. If this is true for your friend's situation, then I believe the height of the shrubs is probably only a minor consideration. In my garden the high side has much better drainage, the low side holds water & sometimes lies in water. Plantings had to be quite different from side to side. Both sides are in full sun. For example, the center of the yard and part of the left lower side will grow a pine, the low areas on the right will kill a pine in one season. Finding deciduous plants & shrubs to suit both sides was fairly easy, finding evergreens in my climate was not. Since I didn't want to lose a lot of money experimenting with expensive shrubs and trees for the "wet garden" and a lot of the water loving ones get much too large for my smallish space and I'm a plantaholic anyway, the very low right side has more perennials than the left side, where I have a few shrub roses among the pines, daylilies, and grasses. (BTW, Itea & Clethra will grow on both sides). The perennials on the lowest side, such as water loving iris, are interspersed with a lot of cheap thicketing shrubs, like red twigs, and only a few tall arborvitaes (up the slope somewhat, where it is not too wet) for winter color and to balance the small rounded pines on the other side. Thus the height was more a function of what would grow well where. I mostly used color to unify the area, using a Blue Montgomery Spruce, 3 Crimson Pigmy Barberries, a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry & Purple Smokebush on one side & another Blue Montgomery Spruce, 3 more CP Barberries & 2 Physocarpus Diablo (which tolerate wet clay quite well) on the other side (toward the higher middle for drainage reasons) with a lot of red blooming perennials (quite different ones) on each side. I also used some tall grasses in place of shrubs in both areas, dry & wet and even planted bulbs on both sides, daffodils on the higher side and camassia on the other. Despite the fact that the spaces were different in size, I used a very similar bed shape on each side, trying for some additional symmetry that way, since the plantings were so different. Hope this gives you some ideas of the issues you can have with slopes and dropoffs.

Aerbk7b, Strawchicago z5 was generous in sharing her experience. You didn't ask me but I did notice that your original question was whether all hybrid musks were descended from Trier, either directly or several generations back. Here's the short answer: No. For a better, more informative answer, buy a premium membership on HMFRoses. Search the linage of a rose, its descendants and ancestors for a better understanding. It's the best money I've spent for furthering my knowledge of what roses will grow here. BTW you are wise in thinking that the ancestry of a hybrid musk will make a difference in its performance.