"It works"? ONLY if you have a Mg deficiency. In any other application it has only the potential to limit. The only exception to that statement I can think of would occur in the potentiality of there being too much Ca available and an excess of Mg was required to keep a workable balance between Ca and Mg. Some people think greener automatically means healthier. It doesn't. You can make your plant greener by providing nutrients it doesn't need - nutrients that can only limit the plant's potential - just as Epsom salts does if there is already an adequate supply of Mg in the soil. If a grower is repotting as needed and using an appropriate fertilizer, there should be no reason to ever apply supplemental Mg to your potted plants. The practice is far more likely to end up being a negative than a positive, even if the grower does prefer being fooled by using an excess of one nutrient to mask a deficiency of another, or to hide a problem that might be cultural in nature (other than nutritional). There simply is no substitute for a well-reasoned nutritional supplementation program - all the nutrients used by plants, provided in as close to the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrients, and at a concentration high enough to ensure no deficiencies yet low enough that it doesn't impede the plant's ability to take up water (and the nutrients dissolved in that water). Adding a little of this and that in order to make a plant greener or ______ (pick an adjective) is what growers who lack a basic understanding of a plant's nutritional needs resort to. Al

Hi Dogbone10-- A few questions for you . . . First, is the 5 year warranty you are getting from your PB a special offer? I thought the ProEdge dealers warranty was only 3 years? I think you did the right thing going with the longer warranty on an existing pump. If you have read some of my other threads you will know this is why I will ultimately select one PB vs another. I just can't see spending so much for high-end equipment and fancy electronics only to have them fail in the first year . . . and if you know any one that has a pool it can happen. Since my pool will be for next season I am thinking I might have a chance. I don't think they will release it until January myself so as not to throw dealers into having to get up-to-speed, so to speak, until the off-season. Second, I am guessing you are referring to the fact that the pump might not be as quiet as some of the Pentair pumps. How far away did you place your equipment from the pool wall? How far is your run to the spa? I am thinking about going to the 26-50 foot range, but hope this won't hurt the spa operation. What size plumbing did your PB use on the Suction Side and also the Discharge Side? Third, I am thinking of requesting the same pump the 2 & 1/2 HP, is your part # SHPM 2.5 - 2? Here is a link that might be helpful: http://www.jandy-downloads.com/pdfs/pumprefguide.pdf Fourth, Can you please, please, help with information regarding your in-floor system as I am agonizing over this expense. What model Paramount system did you have installed. My one PB offers the current PCC200, but I do not know anyone who has this particular manufacturer's system, although I have seen much older pools (10+ that had working Paramount systems). It would be tremendously helpful to me to know if this was an upgrade to their circulation system that the PB might offer as standard or was it a total system add on? If I could get this system at a reasonable cost it would help me to finalize a decision to go forward with the pool at this time. If you would prefer to send more specifics directly, I set up a g-mail account so that I could corresponded with people on this site: NJFolks4@gmail.com. Fifth, would you mind sharing your other Jandy equipment choices of filter, heater, lights and automation and the size of your pool. Hope you don't mind me asking, but I am trying to coordinate what would be the best in some cases while not duplicating electronics, oh and energy efficiency to keep those bills down too. I have heard about horribly high gas bills for heating here in NJ. Wow, a lot of questions, so I hope this is not too much. THANKS for any help you are willing to provide.

Also be sure your pool is properly bonded. The cell gets installed after the heater. A 35 to 40,000 gallon pool dictates a cell sized for up to 60,000 gallons which means either the Pentair or Auto Pilot. As said earlier, both are fine units. The Pentair is easier to winterize since it doesn't require a manifold like the Auto Pilot. The reason for going slightly over sized is to leave some chlorine generating head room for high temps and heavy usage. More cell plate surface area can help some in the longevity of the cell's life. That's not to say if they made a cell for a 100K gallon pool (no one makes a single cell for residential pools that big, btw) would be beneficial as it would be difficult to control the output to the needed level. Going one size up, I have found, works well and is cost effective. There is no conversion. It's still a chlorine pool. The difference is simply how the chlorine is getting in the pool and byproducts. It will change the way your pH is kept in check. 3" tabs tend to cause the pH to drop and the stabilizer to increase. Cal-Hypo adds calcium. Salt cells tend to raise the pH. Check the salt cells and BBB sections at troublefreepools.com to be be prepared and see how to spend less at the pool store for chems. Scott Scott

Head over to the Jandy Website, and you can download the directions for the unit. The upshot is: Turn off power to the system at the Circuit Breaker panel. Set your valves so you won't get a huge water flow. There's a grey "bolt" looking thing on the bottom, with a wire attached to it. You'll want to unscrew that. You'll need a large pipe wrench. Use caution, the plastic's quite soft. On the bottom of that 'bolt,' you'll see three metal pads. They need to be scrubbed with a green 3M nylon pad - the kind you clean dishes with. Rinse with fresh water. Reinstall, re-do the valves, turn on. Should work OK.