If you are going to do it then I recommend the Intellichlor from Pentair.
The Cells on most SCG last around 3 to 5 years depending on how well they are taken care of. Now they can last longer then that as well.
One thing I like about the Intellichlor is the brain is in the cell. So when you replace the cell you replace the brain. The only part that is on the wall is the transformer which is almost bullet proof.

With the Aquarite, 4 years down the line you buy a new cell, and then 1 year later the board in the box goes.
So more $$.

Get the largest one you can, it will not work as hard and last longer, if you are at 40K gallons then you will want the IC-60 for 60K gallon pool.

However, and IC60 will not last longer for a 15000 gallon pool than an IC40. The main contributors, AFAIK, are friction, chemistry, and temperature swings.

Hayward's and Jandy's have been know to have issues with their electronics being pushed to the limit. I don't know that using a larger cell with them will make any difference either. With Hayward's, the board still gets it's overheated solder joints (both stand alone and built into automation), and Jandy's transformer and bridge rectifiers.

I know of no such issues with the Pentair or Auto-Pilot systems. Both are fine systems.

Scott

I have an Auto-Pilot going on it's 5th year with no issues. But my pool is closed 7-8 months out of the year so that may or may not factor into the life of the cell. The cell has never been taken out over the winter as some suggest be done. So far so good.

Also be sure your pool is properly bonded. The cell gets installed after the heater. A 35 to 40,000 gallon pool dictates a cell sized for up to 60,000 gallons which means either the Pentair or Auto Pilot. As said earlier, both are fine units. The Pentair is easier to winterize since it doesn't require a manifold like the Auto Pilot.

The reason for going slightly over sized is to leave some chlorine generating head room for high temps and heavy usage. More cell plate surface area can help some in the longevity of the cell's life.

That's not to say if they made a cell for a 100K gallon pool (no one makes a single cell for residential pools that big, btw) would be beneficial as it would be difficult to control the output to the needed level.

Going one size up, I have found, works well and is cost effective.

There is no conversion. It's still a chlorine pool. The difference is simply how the chlorine is getting in the pool and byproducts. It will change the way your pH is kept in check. 3" tabs tend to cause the pH to drop and the stabilizer to increase. Cal-Hypo adds calcium. Salt cells tend to raise the pH.

Check the salt cells and BBB sections at troublefreepools.com to be be prepared and see how to spend less at the pool store for chems.

Scott

Scott

All, thank you for your feedback!
Scott - I read a post where you talked about proper bonding. My pool was constructed in the mid 70Âs, so I doubt that shell or the deck is bonded. My pump is about 75 ft from the pool in an "equipment room" in my garage so at least my pump is grounded; although, I recently installed an instantaneous water heater in my house and there was a big yellow sticker on it that essentially said that the ground in the receptacle was not a substitute for bonding. Anyway, what do you suggest as far as steps to take to get as close to "properly bonded" as possible?

Scott - I read a post where you talked about proper bonding. I am getting ready to install a SWG and you said to ensure that the pool is properly bonded. My pool was constructed in the mid 70Âs, so I doubt that shell or the deck is bonded. My pump is about 75 ft from the pool in an "equipment room" in my garage so at least my pump is grounded; although, I recently installed an instantaneous water heater in my house and there was a big yellow sticker on it that essentially said that the ground in the receptacle was not a substitute for bonding. Anyway, what do you suggest as far as steps to take to get as close to "properly bonded" as possible?

Friction and chemistry are small variables when it comes to cell life.

Having an oversized cell will allow the system to last longer. The more the cell is energized, the faster the ruthenium will shed from the cells.

The more the cells reverse, and calcify will shorten their lifespan. So the less they operate (oversized) the longer they last.

Racket,
Thats how I always thought about it.

I agree with poolguynj and racket. I have been recommending that my clients use over-sized salt cells. They will last longer and the customer uses less energy since the cell produces chlorine faster. I have been recommending the IntelliChlor IC60 and the EasyTouch system that bundles the IC60. This cell produces 2lbs of chlorine per day vs. the 1.4lbs that the IC40 produces.