Painting the bright gold metal trim on glass fireplace doors
jewelisfabulous
7 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (6)
Susan Rawlings
7 years agoRelated Discussions
painting brass fireplace doors..
Comments (6)You have a couple options. The brass could be either plated or solid. I would suspect it's plated but you could test it by sanding an edge where it won't be so noticeable first with 400 grit paper to be sure. Some finishes are also clear coated to protect against oxidation but that can be removed with thinner. If you want to paint it you'll first need to remove any clearcoat protection and then sand off the brass plating which will not be a fun job. Then a heavy defect covering primer, to hide those sanding marks, and high temp paint that works together with the primer could be applied. Another option is chemically altering the brass itself with a hobby/craft product like Blacken-it or similar home brew remedies that will change the color but will not rub off like paint can. Do a search for "metal finishing"+brass using say Google and you'll get some product direction. Hope this helps....See MorePainting Trim: BS Satin Impervo vs. SW ProClassic Oil Enamel
Comments (10)Latex is terrible paint for anything you care about. It's soft, it can't be prepped well for the next coat when it gets old; it takes months to "cure" even though it dries in an hour; it does not, by any means, look or feel anything like a good oil paint, in fact, in humid weather it can get very sticky, and there's virtually no way to get it to totally level out into that classic "satin impervo" look no matter how much Floetrol you put in it or how expensive a brush you use, though if you have a painter skilled in laying on latex they can get close, though with significantly more effort, or if you spry it, but spraying forces you to reduce it so much it degrades the paint. Downsides: oil does take overnight to dry, the solvents are not healthy to breathe; cleaning brushes takes an inordinate amount of thinner and slop buckets. Upsides: if you hire a good painter, you'll get a finish head and shoulders above latex. If I were doing a really nice interior, I'd be reluctant to slop latex on all that nice wood detail. As a former painting contractor, I can tell latex a mile away. I personally hate using oil, but I would never defend latex as great, or even particularly good, paint. Also note that if you can even get Ben Moore Satin Impervo oil in gallons, it has been reduced to high quality sludge through the removal of a lot of the solvents (VOCs) that made is so good. So be prepared to doctor it up with thinner or conditioners (Penetrol). The Impervo they sell in quarts to get past the VOC laws ("for metal only") is actually thin enough to paint with right out of the can. AS for yellowing, it does yellow with time but we're talking 15 to 20 years time--I have done over many many oil-based interiors, and the yellowing was kind of nice, if you were to ask me. I don't know what happened with the commenter above, no idea. Definitely not the norm....See MoreAdvice on Painting Fireplace Doors
Comments (8)Rustoleum high heat paint comes in white, almond, green, black and silver, but I don't think I'd use anything but the black. the point of it being black is so it looks sort of like iron, IMO. I've never liked bright brass fireplace doors, and think all black would be an improvement, but that's just my taste. Your pics are too small to see any detail about what's behind the glass. Since the glass is smoked, you aren't going to see the firebox whatever the color of the doors. If it looks too dark and featureless to you without the brass, why not put a real or faux plant in front of the doors when it's not in use? Or a small sculpture or other decorative object (or two or three) that you can easily move to the use the FP? Some FP tools (not bright brass) would make the hearth more interesting....See MoreThinking About Painting Brick Fireplace Metallic!
Comments (51)The entire painting process took 4 days. I think I cleaned the bricks the weekend before I began painting. Our entire wall is brick, so I would think yours will take less time. I think I started painting late in the day on a Thursday (primer), finished the primer Friday night, first coat of paint on Saturday, and finished up with the second coat of paint that Sunday. DH and I scrubbed the bricks with a powdered cleaner mixed with water (TSP-PF). The primer (BM First Step, 100% Acrylic; tinted grey), took about a day and a half (maybe a day and three-quarters) to paint--DH helped briefly if I recall. I think I only used a brush, but might have rolled it on as well--I forget. It really soaked in so it was slow going. We did one coat of primer. For the first coat of paint I just used a brush (don't remember if or how much DH helped with painting the first coat). Lots of nooks and crannies, crevices, and mortar lines, lots and lots of mortar lines needed to be filled or covered with paint. The second coat went much faster. DH used a brush first, to paint all the mortar lines, and then I rolled on a decent coating of paint over the bricks using a really, really thick, fluffy roller cover (thanks to the recommendation of a professional painter who saw me eyeing the paint supplies at HD--I don't think that my go-to paint store even had a roller cover that fluffy!). Then of course, there were the touch-ups. Where our side walls meet the bricks, there are gaps all up and down at those junctures. Combine those gaps with the wavy, bumpy brick wall, and you can well imagine how impossible it is to tape the bricks in such a way that no paint gets through. What's the opposite of a clean sharp line? LOL Luckily I'm tenacious (and more than a wee bit detail-oriented!), so I spent whatever time it took to touch it all up using my trusty array of small (and even smaller!) brushes. I think I did one side of the wall/room one day, and the other side the next. FYI, small unpainted holes and spots might mysteriously appear after you've painted the brick (even weeks later)--the paint seems to form a bubble over or around cracks, crevices, and holes and then sucks in as it dries, leaving bare brick, or primer exposed. I went around with a tiny paintbrush, filling-in and covering up all of those spots with the black paint. I touched up all the mysteriously appearing holes/spots, as they appeared (or whenever I noticed them). We used BM primer tinted grey as I mentioned (not as dark as I'd have thought it would be, and I would have liked it darker), BM Aura paint, matte finish, in Black, just plain old BM Black. Love Aura matte! We used Purdy XL angled (and maybe flat, as well) brushes. I don't know the name of the roller cover--might have been a Purdy, but it looked like a thick and fluffy wad of sheep's wool on a roller....See Morekirkhall
7 years agoSusan Rawlings
7 years agoUser
7 years agodebbie1000
7 years ago
Related Stories
CURB APPEAL5 Bright Palettes for Front Doors
Splash bold green, blue, orange or red on your front door, then balance it with a more restrained hue on the rest of the house
Full StoryFRONT DOOR COLORSFront and Center Color: When to Paint Your Door Bright Red
Welcoming and intense, a red front door kicks up a home's entryway and is impossible to miss
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESA Glimmer of Gold Leaf Will Make Your Room Shine
Make a unique, unexpected statement in any space with this precious metallic finish
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESPaint Color Ideas: 7 Bright Ways With Yellow and Orange
Go with the glow. These sample palettes and room examples show you how to work with two of the happiest hues around
Full StoryCOLORRestful Bedroom Designs Strike Gold
Don’t be afraid to use this high-octane metallic to create a soft and sunny glow in the bedroom
Full StoryENTRYWAYSHelp! What Color Should I Paint My Front Door?
We come to the rescue of three Houzzers, offering color palette options for the front door, trim and siding
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGHow to Clean a Glass Shower Door
See which tools and methods will keep those glass shower walls and doors sparkling clean
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESColor Guide: How to Work With Bright White
There's a reason clean, crisp white is the eternal standard for walls. See how it can take your rooms from pallid to pleasing
Full StoryTRIMWhat Color Should You Paint Your Trim?
Learn the benefits of painting your trim white, black, neutral, a bold color and more
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: Going White and Bright in Montreal
White lacquer and wider doorways help create an airer backdrop for colorful contemporary art in a 1910 Arts and Crafts home
Full Story
elpaso1