I think I have an entirely different perspective on moving forward slowly in baby steps, when leaps and bounds are there for the taking. If you're blazing a trail, or you've set out from 'A' in a random search for 'B', slow baby steps might be a reasonable course; but when the trail has already been blazed and well-traveled, there is very little risk in moving forward quickly. The worst that can happen is a little stumble, but there are plenty of travelers along the way to help get you back on the trail. Another way to look at it is, why take a years worth of baby steps, trying a little of this and a little of that, when a few weeks is all it will take to evaluate your progress and do an immediate about face to the former status quo if things don't work out. There is always something to be said for the KISS method, but keeping it simple doesn't mean you should (logically) feel there is an improved chance for favorable results. As I think about that issue and how it relates to the way I grow, I'm left to wonder what could be done to make it any simpler. I use virtually the same soil (made with equal parts of only 3 ingredients) and the same fertilizer for all my houseplants. They're pretty much all treated the same way, except maybe in summer, when some require a little less than full sun. I think the most complicated part of the whole package is the explaining 'why' it works so well to others who wish to take a similar course. The rest, the application part, is simple. I guess I like the people I'm trying to help to understand the concepts behind why they're having greater success. .... sort of like that whole "Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. TEACH a man to fish, and ...." It's sometimes difficult to explain a technical concept w/o BEING technical in explaining, but that the explanation might seem technical is not by any means a clear indication the application must follow as such. The application is really quite simple. I'm not sure how I come down on the 'fuss less and water less' thing. There's nothing wrong with fussing. Heck - I'm always fussing over my plants - taking a leaf off here, whacking a branch or deadheading there, pulling unwanted weeds out of the soil ..... as long as it's appropriate fussing, all is well. I think key is learning what is and isn't appropriate. The same with watering. You can tell a known over-waterer to water less, and most times the suggestion will be helpful, but not always; so I would probably make the suggestion that the over-waterer learn to water appropriately (which is quite an art) and on an 'as needed' basis only, instead of on a schedule. To that, however, I might add the qualifier that as the porosity of your soil increases the importance of watering on an 'as needed' basis decreases; and the greater will be the 'forgiveness factor' if you DO find it necessary to water on a schedule. The reason is, of course, that it is the soils that remain saturated for extended periods that encourage rot organisms to take hold. Porous and fast draining soils that retain no saturated layer of soil at the bottom of the container offer considerable margin for error in the watering department ...... less likelihood of the mold issue like Kim had arising, as well. I think, in my travels here at GW, I have identified 3 different ways of how people look at the issue of change. I won't go into the reasons for the positions people take, I'll only say that they are there. The first group is almost entirely resistant to change, no matter how overwhelming the evidence that it is in all probability a good course. Even the fact that this group might have plants they KNOW aren't all they could be, is not enough, from their perspective, to warrant change. Another group is somewhat resistant to change, but will make changes when they have seen good reason to make them. They are often only swayed by the testimony and success stories of others. This group is often content with a few minor changes in their approach, and not usually willing to make an exerted effort at major change; although I've seen a lot of them become very enthusiastic after a few changes have made considerable improvement in their results. The third group is very open to weighing suggestions, and to making a sometimes considerable effort to improve their results through learning and incorporating new strategies. They're generally interested in the positive and even naysayers can't hold them back. Unfortunately, these groups are often at odds, and even more sadly, it's usually because of their perspectives; but should it be that way? Of course not. Why should the growers hungry for change and improvement care if the first group is content in their methods and results? Conversely, why should the firmly entrenched care if some few want to break away from the pack and stretch their wings? Ah well, I didn't think I would find so much to talk about. It's getting late, so I'll wish all a good night. Take care. Al

Hi Gracin: I'll work on what you wrote: "WCD is outgrowing the 15 gal. pot ... The sugar sand soil (pH 4.9 - 5.5) will be amended with about 50 - 60% composted cow manure. I guess the cow manure will add Nitrogen, and all I will need is the chelated iron, right? Or do I need bone meal" University of Georgia College of Agriculture stated that "Pine bark have a pH between 4.0 and 5.0 ... with 13% water-retention when fresh, and 21% water-retention when decomposed." Gracin, your soil is already acidic, so pine bark and peatmoss are NOT good choices. NPK of cow manure is: 0.6 / 0.4 / 0.5 ... it's very balanced. You don't need chelated iron, since manure has iron. You don't need bonemeal, if you add lots of manure. Contrary to on-line report that bone meal doesn't break down above neutral... it worked too well in my alkaline clay pH 7.7, when got rained on (pH of rain is 5.6). I dumped bonemeal around geraniums. Their blooms became vibrant deep colors, very pretty. But the plants got dwarfed and leaves got burnt. I put bone meal NPK of 1-13-0 into the planting hole of a white pine ... it burnt my white pine. Phosphorus at 13 was too high for my retentive clay. Bonemeal is great if worked well into sandy soil like Sherry. Kitty litter is granulated clay ... good stuff for sandy soil. I tested the pH of Scott's top soil, it's neutral ... safe to use. Zacklau in CT has acidic soil, he mentioned that his roses were sick, no fertilizer could solve the problem, until he fixed his acid soil with lime. Getting the pH to the neutral zone is more important that adding chemicals. The soil will release all the nutrients plants need when it's at the neutral zone. I would test the pH of the cow manure. Fresh cow manure is reported at pH of 4. If they use lime to deodorize the floor, it will bring the pH up. If they bag the cow manure and add more lime in to keep the odor down, cow manure pH shoots up to 8. I would test the pH of the soil, and the pH of the cow manure load to make sure that the combo is OK. Roses grow best at pH 6.5 to 7. Cow manure and kitty clay would be enough. Cantigny park in zone 5a with 1,200 roses put forth the best display when they fertilized with fresh cow manure in spring. It stank up the park but that was their best: roses with shiny leaves, dark green, tons of blooms. Latter years they use chemical fertilizer high in phosphorus, tons of blooms - but the overall health is never as good as cow manure. Horse manure also have iron. My neighbor ordered a pile of dirt with 1/2 "mushroom compost". I inspected his pile and saw mostly woodchips, the same stuff that I get from the stable. He topdressed his lawn with that, and has the deepest green lawn in the neighborhood. The woodchips that came with the manure made his lawn spotty. If your pile is 100% cow manure, no woodchips bedding like horse stable .... then you have the best stuff possible. Even high phosphorus fertilizer can't beat the amount of blooms when roses are fed with manure. It's best to check the pH of your cow manure to see if it's acidic at 4 like some reported values of fresh cow manure. Here is a link that might be useful: Testing soil pH using red cabbage This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sat, Feb 23, 13 at 15:53

Yes, there could have been a bit of sooty mould, and although it would be over 25 years ago, I recall I did check over it for evidence of that, ie. ants; fluffy little bugs; scale but found no substantail evidence of it so I got some qualified advise (Sydney Royal Bot. Gardens) and was told it was probably due to staining from the euc's. oils. I currently have some scale infestation on 2 of a dozen nerium oleanders (the pink ones), which I grow as single stemmed specimens. I also have a rose garden and when I spray my roses, about once every 2 months or more, and my azaleas for azalea lace bug (the roses for aphids and blackspot) I also give these 2 oleanders a spray. A dash of labacid and a dash or two of the fungicide triforene. The triforene also works, you know, for ink spot desease on kangaroo paws. Both systemics and I don't think too obnoxious when used rarely to the environment. By the way, I had a look at your site, Len, and was impressed, good job Pal.

The Sulphur I've only applied once before i left for work 2 weeks ago. I will measure the PH of the soil again soon to see what it is at and will reapply if needed. I've just been watering with regular tap water which is around 7.6 PH here. Every other tree doesnt have issues with it as i think the compost acts as a buffer anyways to bring it down. Same pepper which had sulphur applied also and has started to go pretty well. Blueberries are going super well in pots. Never had issues with them in first place and they are planted in Azalea mix/peat moss/ pine bark with yearly addition of added peat moss/compost and regular acid ferts. Altho i did swear i had more blueberries then this, i think the birds have got to them. On another note to see how rest my garden is going Apricot on its way Peach tree/ Raspberry (which are growing like mental they want to unleash like crazy out of that pot)/ Small blueberry bush 1st yearPeach before i left for work 2 weeks difference when i got back going well this is an O'henry peach Apricot tree growing very well & the Mandarin, both which got battered a bit today but unusual rain at this time of year but should bounce back. Tomatoes/eggplant well on its way in this early spring (just to rub it in for you guys in winter) haha.