Allowance for bottom-mount drawer slides: inconsistent gaps
Pink Poppy
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Pink Poppy
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Help me re: slide out/roll out drawers
Comments (7)At ShelvesThatSlide.com, they don't suggest you need a fixed shelf to mount the pullouts to--you mount the pullouts to the side of the cabinet, not to a shelf! Oh, wait, I do see this: "We do not recommend no shelf installations for locations where a significant amount of weight is involved such as pantries." I guess if your back end of the slide is going to be attached to the wimpy outer panels that framed cabinets have, this might be a problem. The thing is, regular drawers are attached to the back of the framed cabinets all the time. You'd use the same sort of drawer slides, but you'd use "face frame brackets" or a "face frame conversion kit." Those brackets are MUCH less bulky than the ones that the Sliding Shelves place used--look at the link below. The key: "Secure a 3/4" x 2" vertical mounting strip to the rear wall or cabinet back for each slide." You might ask this over at the Kitchens forum; I know folks over there have added pullouts to their cabinets after-market, so they'd have some help for you. You can also mount to the side of the cabinet, depending on how far out the face frame sticks; you use spacers to fill in the gap between the wood of the cabinet side itself, and the spot where the drawer slide would be (sinc eit can't go flush against the wall). Are the sides of the cabinets visible? Are they very thick? If they're not visible, and you're willing to drive screws through them from the inside, that would work. If they are visible, or if you aren't willing to make holes in them, then maybe you could line the side of the cabinet w/a thick sheet of plywood. Or, you could build a frame to set into the side of the cabinet, w/ vertical pieces where the holes on the slides are, and then glue that wood to the cabinet itself (stain it to match, to make it look pretty!); it'll hold everything. You might want to keep it from tipping by using an L bracket to attach it to the inside of the face frame in the front, and to the back of the cabinet in the back. http://www.runnerduck.com/pmbench.htm Scroll about halfway down This one will show you the spacer in the back, plus the angled bracket that attached the slide to the back of the cabinet. I suppose if you really wanted to, you could install fixed shelves in the cabinet, but that seems silly. Here is a link that might be useful: Instructions for an Accuride-brand face-frame conversion kit...See MoreWWYD - fabricators on coffee break, granite overhang inconsistent
Comments (45)Sorry I neglected this thread - I don't seem to be getting notifications consistently. Errant, I looked at the sealant - it was a large contractor size granite sealant that didn't have obvious branding. They did comment that it was a newer one with special "enviro" formulation - i.e. it may be less effective than previous ones with stronger solvents. After three coats the granite still gets water marks when water sits for 30 min so I will get some granite sealer from Home Depot today and do another coat. Trebuchet and Hollysprings - I agree the sink install was a hack job. Problem is, we had to either pay them or let them fix it. My husband probably could have played hardball with them, but he is too stressed out with his day job and when I spoke with the "big boss" he had an answer for everything and I couldn't get him to bend on anything. For example, he insisted that he did 1/4" radius corners like we agreed - which he did not. I never know how to handle it when I am being told that black is white. We decided we would prefer to fix the sink situation ourselves rather than let them come up with another wonderful "solution". I really wasn't confident that they would not make things worse. My husband will get that sink rock solid, I am not worried about that. Bbtrix, glad you're feeling better about things :) . If I knew I was staying in my home for the next 10 years, and if my husband wasn't a fuss-budget, I would have considered marble too. I was recently in Cuba and admired the century-old marble thresholds at the entrances of fancy old buildings. They were worn in, smooth, and delicious - elegantly showing their age. This post was edited by feisty68 on Tue, May 27, 14 at 13:31...See MoreDrawers versus sliding shelves in base cabinets
Comments (15)It was pointed out above that "Pull out shelves generaly give you just a little more headroom due to not having a fame member between the drawers. They also can be adjusted to give you more height in one and less in the other" and also that shelves could have a slight advantage "... since 'drawers' are not adjustable like shelves". Using drawers, I managed to get all the height and space advantages of pull out shelves. To explain how will require two concepts: first, I used frameless cabinets. There is no frame member in the front of the cabinet in frameless cabinets. Also, one can build the drawer front to be flush with the drawer's "floor" panel so there is no wasted space like you can see (e.g. at any Ikea) where the drawer front is made larger and overlaps. 2/ Secondly, I installed many interior drawers. They are always shallower than the main drawer. In my case the drawer fronts are all 15" high, to create a standardized look, but the division of space inside is not the same in each pair of main drawer and internal drawer. In one case I have a trio: 2 internal drawers behind a main drawer. Some of these internal drawers are semi-attached to the drawer front by a removable clasp so they get pulled open too when you pull on the drawer front. You could also screw the internal drawer to the drawer front if you make it high enough: then it's a base cabinet version of the "high pantry pullout" which has many drawers screwed onto a single high front. Otherwise, internal drawers are only accessible after you pull open the drawer they are in, and you then pull again on the interior drawer's front. Yes, that makes it two movements, but both require the same muscles and the same position. Interior drawers like these are more for storage or items you want to give a lower priority to on a daily basis. One of the two cutlery drawers requires two movements to open: this is the drawer holding the fancier silverware. We use our regular cutlery more often. Same for staples, and utensils we hardly ever use. We can use internal drawers for them: The bottom large drawers are for the huge bag of rice, flour, sugar etc....See MoreIs 21" max depth of Blum drawer slides? Trying to avoid wasted space
Comments (5)Just measured mine. I have 21 " Blum glides and drawers for my 24" deep cabinets and 24" Blum glides and drawers for my 27" deep cabinets. There is hardware on the back of the wood drawer boxes that goes deeper than the measured drawer glides so at 24" glide will not fit in a 24" deep cabinet. I am pretty sure that the Blum undermounts come in 3 inch increments only. I have heard that you can probably put a 24" Blum glide in a 25.5 inch deep cabinet but either others or your cabinetmaker would have to confirm that. The side mounts that I have on the pullout "drawer inside a drawer" come in 2 inch increments but do not have soft close and are not very attractive when pulled out. HTH...See MorePink Poppy
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7 years agoPrecision Carpentry
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7 years agoDesign Loft Bracebridge
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDesign Loft Bracebridge
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoPink Poppy thanked Design Loft BracebridgeFori
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