The fruit needs to mature before you can harvest the seed. The seed inside will be quite large compared to the size of the fruit. I don't actually know what the mature fruit looks like because I got mine in the mail and the fruit/rind had already been cleaned from around the seed. I believe that is required by law to stop the spread of citrus greening disease. Curry leaf tree seed must be fresh to be viable, if it dries out it won't grow. Apparently I posted here years and years ago when I was living in another state, that plant died pretty quickly. I got seed from a grower in Hawaii about 5 or 6 years ago and most of those plants are still alive and most of the seed DID germinate, all of it, eventually, as far as I remember now. Mine are currently not doing as well as I could wish because where I live now they only get a month or two of outside time. I DO NOT put them out until it is at least 50F at night here, this year that didn't happen until mid-July. I expect to have to bring them back in soon because night time temps are already back into the 50F range, it won't be long before they start falling below 50F. It is OK to schlep them in and out during the daytime, and I used to do that, but I've become old and decrepit and its too much for me to do that every day any more. Right now mine are past due for a repot, the organic portion of my Growstone-peat-bark planting mix is pretty well spent. Mine flower every year for the past 3 or 4 years but they never set fruit, I'm not sure why - lack of pollinators possibly because I live in the High Sierra Desert area at 5400' altitude. I wish my Walmart carried curry leaf plant LOL!

I got seed from an acquaintance in Hawaii. Contact growers in Hawaii and Florida - possibly some in CA as well - to see if they will ship you seed. There are restrictions on where/how seed can be shipped because of citrus disease - if you are in a citrus growing state, look for seed locally as M. koenigii is a citrus and is likely grown in any state where other citrus are grown. My seed arrived already cleaned of the fruit pulp, and in moist peat moss to keep it from drying out. Dried out seed is unlikely to grow, it is very fragile and short-lived. I planted my seed in 2" starter paks (2" diameter, not depth). These need to be kept warm and moist, but not wet. Use a seed mat if possible set at 81 to 82F - they like 80F but most seed mats come with controllers that shut off within 3 F of the target temp - so my seed mat was turning off at 77F. I never saw it shut off too late, but it often shut off too early. If you have a herp controller, those are MUCH more accurate and you can just set it at 80F. ALL of my seed eventually germinated. Germination was faster while bottom heat was applied. You should probably remove the plant from the bottom heat soon after it sprouts - so use smaller paks, like 4 cells, or even individual pots. I ended up cutting my starter paks up because they were full-flat paks, with something over 30 cells. Beyond that, I can't say how to best care for your seedlings. I'm still learning. I tried putting them in a gritty mix and a modified gritty mix - the modified gritty mix took longer to fail than the gritty, but it did eventually fail, despite all sorts of contortions (and with the help of a local soil scientist) trying to correct for pH and trying to find a way to water the gritty that didn't leave dry streaks through the medium. The only plants that did really well were those planted in the usual peat blends. Between the watering problems (I had to float my gritty pots to get them thoroughly watered, and they dried out FAR too fast in my arid environment) and pH induced fertility problems - foliar feeding with Foliage Pro did NOT counteract these issues - gritty and gritty-ish were both ultimately unsuitable for these plants. They were particularly troubled by iron deficiency problems, despite regular application (for half the plants) of iron. This made very little difference because it just runs out of the gritty mix. Foliar feeding of iron solution also did not make a noticeable difference. So I suggest sticking to a good bagged potting mix, or a good peat blend once your seedlings have sprouted. A palm blend and a palm or citrus fertilizer is probably best. Watch for iron deficiency - M. koenigii is a heavier than usual user of iron.

I NEED HELP/ADVISE HOW TO GET CURRY LEAVES FROM BY CURRY LEAF PLANT WITH TWO BROWN STICKS ABOUT 36 INCHES LONG, AND ONE 24 INCHES LONG I STARTED KEEPING PLANT OUTSIDE FROM APRIL 5TH, 2012 ONWARDS. BEFORE THEY WERE INDOORS FROM OCTOBER 2011 I DID NOT WATER CURRY LEAF PLANT UNTIL 5TH APRIL 2012 AS OF TODAY JUNE 6TH, NO LEAVES HV COME, NOT EVEN GREEN BUDS I HV CHANGED POTTING SOIL WITH FERTILIZER IN IT ABOUT 5 WEEKS AGO. NO RESULTS YET I WATER IT MIN. ONCE A WEEK I USE MIRACLE GRO ONCE EVERY 2 WEEKS PLS ADVISE WHAT SHUD I DO TO GET CURRY LEAF PLANT STARTS GROWING AGAIN OUR DAY TIME TEMP ARE AROUND 75 TO 80 DEGREE F IN JUNE IS MY CURREY LEAF PLANT DEAD? I HOPE NOT IT WAS GROWING LAST YEAR SHUD I WATER MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK? PLS HELP/ADVISE ME SOON THNKS SHIV NORTHERN NEW JERSEY, USA e-mail:sardacss@gmail.com 6-6-12

Could be a fungus like Vladimir said, could also be an insect egg or just dirt on a bit of fluff. However, I'm more concerned with how dusty the leaves are. I may just be dust or it could be the beginnings of a spider mite infestation. It's a good idea to wash off the leaves from time to time, like maybe every 4-6 weeks. Take them outside and hose them off, or if that's not possible, put them in the shower and shower them off with cool water. Then let them drain well and put them back where they were. It helps prevent spider mites as they're attracted to dusty plants. And your plants love the rinsing off!