We were in a similar situation last week, I know what you are going through... Below are how we picked out our plumbing fixtures: We first called our contractor for a list of exact parts/items we needed including diameters, finishing, size (length, width and height)..etc. so that we would not leave out anything. The trustworthy plumber we have been using for the last 17 years told us that Delta has good products. So we focus on Delta and its sister brands such as Hansgrohe and Brizo (hope this is correct). We like brushed nickel, modern/contemporary styles that further scaled down the selections. After we found the sink/vanity faucet we liked, we picked matching shower and tub fixtures. Once we decided what we wanted, we sent the list to our contractor for confirmation, then we placed the orders. We ended with a Hansgrohe system that fit the design. Since you have time constraint, Amazon would be a good "one stop" shopping place with their fast delivery. I compared the quotes of a list of fixtures from local stores with Amazon's, the prices we got from the local shop were competitive, but Amazon's were more than $100 lower. The actual savings would be more when factoring in the free shipping, and tax. When online shopping, make sure to check return policy and associated restocking fees. Enjoying your shopping.

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

No, that's right side up. I have a similar Hansgrohe valve - mine is thermostatic although (annoyingly) the temperature settings aren't labelled on the escutcheon plate. The large control at the bottom controls temperature - move left for colder, right for hotter. The smaller top lever on mine is a volume control and diverter in one. Upward is off; left and right send water to the tub spout and shower respectively, with the water volume increasing until the control is sideways 90 degrees from top. It rotates 360 degrees in either direction; the bottom half is for combining both tub and shower outlets in any proportion (useful if you have a handshower attached to the tub spout as I plan to do, so you can use the regular showerhead and the handheld simultaneously). Behind the trim plate is Hangrohe's excellent universal box that allows easy access to the valve from the front which makes repairs, modifications, or style changes easy. I never knew about those drop ear adapters, and thought the choice of tub spout plumbing had to be decided based on which spout you planned to install. I'd seen inexpensive tub spouts that have a second outlet on them for attaching a handshower, with a diverter control on the spout: and the ones I've seen require a long threaded pipe like the one the original poster had installed, so that's what I specified. But if I ever wanted to change it to, say, this Kohler Souris waterfall spout I'd need to take a hacksaw to the pipe because the Kohler spout uses the set screw attachment method and can't have a long pipe extending from the wall. It would be nice to be able to change between tub spouts easily if I so choose. Speaking of which, would it be easy (or at least possible) to change my existing long threaded pipe to a drop ear adapter after the installation has been completed, without removing the 12"x12" wall tiles or anything else?

Are you wanting one for a freestanding bathtub to go from floor or deck mounted? Deck mounted seems easier to fins in rwgards to different styles. Faucet Direct has lots. Search for roman faucet with hand shower, and there are lots of transitional and modern choices. It seems like every manufacturer has them.