Tomato seedlings wilting/ dying. Cloudy weather to blame?
misscassandralee77
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
8 years agojanice8bcharlestonsc
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Tomato wilting from the top - water wilt?
Comments (37)Everyone is saying "MULCH"! >> I have added several inches of mulch around the tomatoes and cucumbers >> I used a composted soil amendment as mulch Mulch is insulation. Like fiberglass insulation (which would work, in its own weird way!) the thicker the better. Also it's best dry on top, damp on the bottom where it touches that non-insulating soil amendment, and airy in the middle. Several inches isn't a lot if you are having problems that could be linked to heat and humidity. Tomato roots are impressive water sucker-uppers. IF they're healthy. Water and healthy roots do not add up to heat wilt, even without shade cloth. I have conditions similar to yours: heat, sun and wind. What the tomatoes DO have is gangster roots, and they haven't the slightest tendency to wilt. YET. Knock on wood. I just jinxed it, didn't I? Are you absolutely SURE that the watering goes down to an appreciable depth? Water it with a dribble for hours! Since there's no such thing as water wilt on a grown tomato that's not going to die, what do you have to lose? Then add another four inches of straw on the previous four....See MoreTomato wilting from one day to the next- WHY??????
Comments (14)I don't think their stems broke because I put them around the wire ring and then tie them to it as they grow (this is the format I use http://www.santarosa.fl.gov/extension/articles/japtomatoring.html). I did this last Fall and I got over 60 lbs of tomatoes from 2 Marion and 2 Better Boy plants. It was amazing. I got the idea from Tom Maccubbin's Florida Home Grown book (the bible for FL garden, I think....) But anything is possible with tomatoes as we all know. I may have inadvertently scraped the stem, etc. Who knows. I drenched the soil with dithane-45 yesterday and then did a foliar sulfur spray last night. I know it's overkill, but I figured I need to wipe out whatever it is as quickly as possible. The german queen plant came back a bit but it's still rather wilty and sad. Here's a breakdown of the timeline of what I did and what happened in case any of you deal with this: 1. Late February - (weather is in 40s-50s, no rain) prepare 6' circle by breaking up soil and spade in 25 lbs Black Kow compost. Area used to be a pine bark mulch area with general use landscape plants such as muhly grass and conifers. Area has light shade in morning and full sun in afternoon (I think this may be part of problem- perhaps lack of strong morning sun encourages fungus....). 2. Early March (after last Frost) - set up wire ring and fill ring with 50 lbs Black Kow compost, 1/2 bale peat moss and 10 lbs 6-6-6- and crushed eggshells. 3. Early March - Plant 4 tomato plants evenly spaced around each ring. 4. Early March - begin weekly spray of Fish Emulsion / Organocide or Neem Oil 5. Early March - 2 days after planting, first Beefsteak wilts and dies 6. Early March - Remove beefsteak, drench soil with organocide 7. Mid March - Weather warms up to 80s, flea beetles attack, spray with organocide 8. Mid March - Cold snap comes in, Flea Beetles disappear 9. Late March - 2nd Beefsteak wilts and dies; other plants growing vigorously with flowers and first fruit set 10. Early April - First soil drench with Dithane 45 11. Early April - Continue spray with neem oil. Stop fish emulsion and move to Worm's Way solid fertilizer made with guano, kelp, etc. 12. Early April - Strong winds and light rain burn edges of Tomato plant leaves 13. April 14 - Weather system moves in and dumps lots of much needed rain and not-needed wind. 14. April 15 - It's a nice sunny days, temps in low 70s. Top shoots (including leaves and flowers) of German Queen plant are wilted to point of almost dry BUT bottom stems, leaves and shoots perfectly fine. I check soil for moisture- it's moist. I look for any sign of mechanical injury or broken stem - there is none. I delicately dig around base of plant looking for cut worm, etc. There is none. Other plants are not wilting. I drench soil with Dithane 45 and then foliar spray with Sulfur (Bonide) at night. 15. April 16 - Wash foliar spray off with hose. german queen tomato plant is still a little wilted but not as bad as yesterday. So I don't know what is going to happen. The GQ may die suddenly like Beefsteak or have a slow and protracted wilting death. If she does kick the bucket, I'll make sure to cut the stem and see if there are any clues in there.... When you guys spray, do you leave the spray on or wash it off later? Whenever I have sprayed organocide or copper in early AM (like 6 AM), the plants sometimes get leaf burn (especially my cukes and squash!!). So, my nursery friend recommended I spray them the night before and then wash spray off in the early AM before the sun can fry the plants. Do you agree with this?...See MoreWilted tomato plant, pest or disease?
Comments (43)I found this thread when I googled tomato plant wilting at top. One of my plants was severely wilted this morning. Fearing something that might spread to the others, I pulled the plant and prepared to take it in to the county extension office. Then I realized it is Friday, and they don't accept samples on Fridays, since they would not be able to get them to VA Tech in good shape, if the local office can't diagnose the problem. My problem sounds exactly like the ones described here. The only other clue I have, which may be unrelated, is that this particular plant had some damage three weeks agonwhich looked exactly like hornworm damage, but I was unable to find any pest. Following suggestions on this thread, I cut off the top of the wilted stem and placed it in water. No cloudiness came out, and six hours later, the piece in water has recovered from the wilt, and looks great. I cut the main stem at several points, and it looked normal. I then slit the stem for about eight inches. Again, nothing out of the ordinary. I will dig up the rest of the rootball for any further clues. It is clear the top of the plant was not getting water, but I don't know why....See MoreTomato wilt....WHY?????
Comments (27)Nandina- you may be on to something: House was built 03/2008. Pine bark Mulch beds surround this part of the house, initally planted with ligustrum, muhly grass, liriope and palms. No Gutters on roof, so water goes straight down house and percolates through mulch beds. I planted the tomatoes in this mulch bed about 4 feet from wall of house. This site gets light shade in the AM and full sun in PM. First time planting tomatoes in this area. Here's how the plants are doing: Ligustrum has sooty mold and are kind of leggy. Viburnum is vibrant. Holly is straggly. Oak is fine. Magnolia tree was chopped down due to fungus in core. Palms are fine. Lantana is fine. Cypress tree is fine. Pine trees are fine. Citrus trees are a battle - I planted them on west side of house which held a lot of water and they almost drowned to death. I moved them to a drier area and now they are fine. Peach tree has some sort of rust I am fighting with sulfur. Squash and Cucumber are failing to thrive and now have spray damage from oil spray. Green beans and sugar snap peas are great. Potatoes are fine. Radish is fine. Muhly grass is full. Liriope were straggly and weed prone so I pulled them all up. Lots size is about 75 X 150, so backyard is about 2700 sq. ft. I planted in this spot because I always try to keep tomatoes separate as they tend to get lots of bugs, etc. in FL and usually if I isolate them, they do much better. At this point I think I just messed up in planting them in an area that has a higher humidity point + mulch bed + close to house. I should have known better, really. I guess the question now becomes do I just leave the remaining 7 plants in the ground or pull them all up in order to control the disease spread?...See MoreHumsi
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