pharaoh... I truly respect your opinion so can you please tell me why you feel that way. I've always loved the look of a wide rail/stile drawer front. To my eye, it gives a casual feel with a contemporary twist. If you've seen any of my posts; you know my kitchen is atypical. Some vintage, some industrial feel, come tropic feel, I'm hoping to pull it together with a contemporary/casual twist. I do love the look of slab fronts with beautiful graining. And a ignorant question... which I'm sure my DH probably knows the answer to but since he's not here I'll ask for my own knowledge. How does a veneer attach itself to a drawer front? I know adhesive; but I thought some kind of press was necessary to form the best contact. Is there possibility of peeling or bubbling? Why would it be easier then solid lumber? Would I use 3/4" what? Plywood? MDF? (too heavy?), buy a slab IKEA door and adhere it to that? Sorry for so many questions.

There has been some debate on a few other threads - over the last few days on this topic.... I have been in the trades for 32+ years - the last 25 years, I have been doing Granite Slab Fabricating. The ONLY thing I use for subtops when doing 2CM Granite countertops is 5/8" ACX Plywood. I will keep this short and sweet... IF you are going to be doing a Granite countertop USE 5/8 inch ACX GRADE PLYWOOD - ONLY here's why I'm so set on this: Granite does not flex much due to movement - when it does - it breaks MDF - when it gets wet - sucks water up like a sponge and SWELLS Swelling of MDF = MOVEMENT of the Granite MOVEMENT of the Grannite = FRACTURE / BREAKAGE FRACTURE / MOVEMENT of the Granite = NOT HAPPY CUSTOMER Bottom line - Plywood is more dimensionally stable on the rare occasion when it gets wet due to a leak or a big spill, etc. Besides that - the MIA mandates that ONLY Plywood be used for subtops I am going to do a video on this to make it more evident to consumers - I will post a link to this video on Natural Stone 101 and AZ School of Rock as soon as it's up on You Tube...... how's that? hth kevin

OMG you guys saved my ass!! The lady I was working with before didn't understand at all what I wanted and we def weren't speaking the same language. She had us down for solid wood doors which were made out of smaller chunks of wood - it would have looked like a circus! I finally got a hold of the owner and was able to get a much clearer picture of what we're getting. I switched our doors to veneered plywood (huzzah! they're cheaper!) I confirmed they use multi-ply banding and the owner is going to go pick out the sheets herself and the grain will be as continuous as they can get them (this is what they're calling bookmatched - I'm not sure it means what they think it means...). Either way this is the look we were going for. She took me into the shop and I talked to the old guy who builds them - needless to say I feel much better now. Also, they agreed to condition the wood before they stain it which I think will minimize the blotchyness in the birch. They didn't know that was an option - she called Sherwin Williams on speakerphone while I was standing there to confirm I wasn't crazy! So I guess they learned something new today. I decided to do a mid-range honey color that I think will go nicely with the floors and soapstone. Thanks again for the help!!

I'm resurrecting this thread...have a slightly different question in addition to all of the issues already discussed. I'm going to order from Conestoga I think. I'm replacing white thermofoil doors which are 20 years old and haven't really faded, but there are a few where a candle or the toaster got too close and caused some minor melting....Most people think they look nice, but in my mind they are still "cheap". The uppers are 42" I'm going to stick with white and just buy doors to match the existing boxes which are fine. Also, I have granite and it's hard to find someone willing to remove it to install complete cabinets. My question is....will a mapleframe/mdf center FEEL like a real wood door? Will it feel different than my thermofoil? I'm talking in terms of both surface and the weight in your hand as you open and close it. Will the outside edges and the panel raise etc be sharper than thermofoil? If I get mdf center will I still have the defined edges I am looking for. If you've had thermofoil you will know what I am asking. I'm toying with getting 5 peice mdf...but don't want to lose the wood look or feel... I think the mdf center is my best bet. My husband is what I like to call..anal...pretty sure he will be bothered by cracks, but he doesn't want the fake plastic look either. Pretty sure all wood is not a good choice for me, too bad because I love wood... The style I am leaning toward is https://www.cabinetjoint.com/cabinet-door/monarch-square/  but I am also toying with shaker style. Wondering if the shaker trend is headed out....Also considering doing a grey island by applying end panels. Guess I could start a new thread for those questions.