I'm new here and just read that long thread on container drainage and now have some ideas for improvement. I always recycle soil. There is no way I could possibly mix new soil for my entire container garden each spring and expand it. This year I have already bought over 130 40 lb. bags of dirt for the installation of new planters! And that was a lot of work. My big wildflower containers which are 8'x2'x12" deep hadn't been changed in 4 years. In the fall I amend the old soil with compost, get rid of the old plants and rootballs, loosen it up, and plant the seed. For containers that don't have perennials, in the spring I empty them into my dirt mixer (which is one of those large Rubbermaid storage things I found in the alley a bunch of years ago), add some compost and new soil and perlite, mix it up and it's ready to go into a new planter. So far I found Menards to have pretty decent dirt and I've tried dirt from all the places around here. I mix one bag of their cheap topsoil (which is pretty good with very few clayballs) with one bag of potting mix with 1/2 bag of mushroom compost and a coffee can of perlite. It may not be the best soil but it works. I grow wildflowers, veggies, herbs, and only a couple of annuals. Last fall I had a big ficus tree and a 2 year old rosemary that I grew from a seedling die on me after bringing it inside last fall. I now think my soil mixture and lack of drainage had something to do with that. These discussions here have been very helpful and I'm going to experiment using wicks and maybe there are other things I can add to amend the soil to make it better.

A couple of points to add to Cyrus' comments. First, Parsley is a biennial (lives for 2 years), not a biannual(occurs twice a year). Second, 'perennial' means that they live for several, or many, years. Usually such plants can be quite slow to grow in their first couple of years, but (as Cyrus says) they can get quite large when fully mature. Third, the annuals will only last one year (or one growing season). In the case of coriander (cilantro), this can mean it has a very short life-span. In a hot climate, it can go from seed to seed in 2-3 weeks. For such plants, growing them in winter might be the only option - and it is generally suggested that you replant every 2-3 weeks ('successive planting') to ensure a continual supply. Most annuals (especially the very-short-lived ones) will self-seed readily. This means that they can become weeds in a short time. Be aware - and either collect seeds as they ripen, or prevent the plant from flowering (remove flowers before they begin to produce seed). Parsley, which goes to seed in its second year, also self-seeds readily - but (as with the seeds of your annuals) those seeds won't always land where you want them!! In short, all your plants will be much happier in the garden than in a pot, doing what comes naturally, and will be much easier to look after. Personally, I'd keep an eye on the oregano - it's not as badly-behaved as mint (which likes to take over), but it requires watching, as it shares that tendency to spread, without being quite so aggressive. A large pot might be the answer if you have limited space.

It's not important what it says on the outside of the bag - what's important is what's IN the bag; and all "cactus mixes" are not created equal. Cactus mix 'A' may be entirely appropriate for a particular herb, while cactus mix 'B' may be entirely inappropriate for the same plant. There is no way to make a determination based on what label the packager put on the bag. If anything, I'd be concerned that some cactus mixes hold TOO MUCH water to be appropriate for either cacti or herbs; so Rhizo's hedging was entirely appropriate and essentially what I'd have said. Neither of us are willing to accept what it says on a bag of soil at face value unless we know the soil. Ideally, you want a soil that holds good amounts of moisture, but doesn't support perched water. Perched water is the water that occupies the soggy layer of soil at the bottom of the pot that occurs as a result of using MOST commercially prepared potting soils; so I would say that from the plant's perspective, what most of you consider to be ordinary, good-quality potting mix is too water retentive to offer your plant to grow at even close to its potential. I tend to look at things from the plant's perspective; and to a plant, there really isn't such a thing as draining too fast. There is a balance to be reached when it comes to watering frequency, but you can almost predict an increase in potential growth and vitality as the need to water increases. IOW, soils that need more frequent watering can generally be counted on to significantly increase the potential for growth and vitality, while at the same time increasing the growers margin for error when it comes to watering and fertilizing. Let me know if you'd like to know more. Al

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"