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plllog

Report in the aftermath

plllog
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

The locusts have departed. It wasn't a plague of locusts. There are even some leftovers. And they were very nice locusts--who plowed through everything. It was a very lemony year, and seems to have been successful.

Menu

Seder: Matzah (white and whole wheat), wine and grape juice, horseradish (white and red (beet)), pecan and apple charoset, nut-free date, avocado, and pepita charoset with lemon zest (both with wine and spices), Greens (sweet and bitter): kale chips, four colors bell
peppers, artichokes, spiral
watermelon radishes, carrot curls, scallions, parsley, Easter
egg radishes, multicolored cherry tomatoes, sugar
snap peas, miniature romaine.

Served:

Rolled Lox with lemon mustard mayonnaise drizzle
Deviled egg with white balsamic, ginger, lemon
zest and
smoked paprika
Chicken soup with matzah balls (mandlen on the table)
Easy short ribs
Rolled turkey breast sous vide
Asparagus roasted with balsamic vinegar
Red dandelion greens and thick squash (zucchini and yellow) "spaghetti"
...with lemon juice and smoked turkey bits
Marble potatoes herb roasted

Chiffon cake. (Brownies and mixed fruit brought by guests)

I thought the date and avocado charoset was delicious, but I think people were put off by the look, or they were wanting it to be more avocado flavored. They were also filling up on my father's much loved, nut heavy traditional charoset. :)

The innovation of the lox instead of gefilte fish was very well received. I thought I was making mayonnaise for the deviled eggs--first time using the Vita-Mix for mayo--and used a recipe from their website, but using safflower rather than canola oil (what I had). I should have doubled the volume because I have a wide jar (750 pro), and it spit up at me while I was drizzling though the hole in the lid, but at least the eggs were pasteurized. :) The result was too strongly flavored and not quite right as well, so using an idea I think came from Wintercat, I blended in the eggwhites. The result was the frothiest, most delicious, delicate but zingy, lemony and mustardy sauce, which kept its lightness in the fridge, that I used it straight as the drizzle for the lox, rather than doing the whole grain mustard and horseradish emulsion that I'd been planning.

So the eggs. They really have to be filled day of. I planned to (and did) slice and deyolk the night before, and make up the filling. I was having trouble fitting the piping into my schedule, and I have have pastry bag issues which I was scared would have me in tears of frustration. I threw money at the problem with a well timed delivery from Amazon: These deviled egg holders come in a pair, which was perfect for my numbers (Needed thirty and these hold eighteen each). They're stable and take up no extra space, are #5 (most food safe plastic) and cost like disposables. Easy to fit on top of things in a fridge drawer. And I was thinking that I could better deal with a hard sided press than a pastry bag when I was overtired--I wasn't even sure that they made one, but I figured, as with many things, if I could think it up, it probably existed. Wilton makes a "dessert decorator plus" which looked just like what I needed, including star tip and two sizes of plain (as well as leaf and ribbon). I had no idea how fantastic it was! I sat down with it expecting it to take half an hour. I had a fork and paper towels for "issues". No issues! Took a couple of minutes. Other than a bubble or something in the first load (half my filling) that had me being a bit stingier than I needed to be--but better that than running out. Dead easy. This is a keeper!

The filling was delicious. I used ideas from the thread where I solicited them, but can't remember who said them (I think Sleevendog but can't remember the other): I used a little Best Foods as an extender (out of pasteurized eggs for more homemade), and added lemon zest, ginger and smoked Spanish paprika (that also wafted over the top). Also some black pepper. And thinned with white balsamic vinegar. The last gave it a pleasing sweetness. It wasn't as sharp as I'd been planning, but very delicious and the company enjoyed them. Thank-you all for your suggestions!!

I cut down on the crazy by making the matzah balls on Thursday and heating them up in the soup. I was short of schmaltz and the soup (which I'd frozen) was lean, so I filched the fat from some roast chicken and veg drippings I'd just made and saved. The seasonings in the drippings fat made for delicious matzah balls! The matzah balls in turn helped season the soup, because I know I forgot to salt it, but it tasted fine. I'm going to have to do that again (but on purpose). What shocked me, however, is that while I thought I'd overcooked them and they were about to fall apart, they were actually still very firm in the middle. Not rubbery, but not as fluffy as when I make them smaller. Some of the old folks had been asking for bigger ones, so I used my big scoop, but the "walnut sized" scoops that are in the old family recipe are fluffier inside. I think the bigger ones would be fall apart waterlogged on the outside before the inside gets fluffy.

I saved scaling up the short ribs for Seder. I'd asked about how to brown them in quantity previously. Someone had suggested doing it in the oven, and then I found a Chowhound post from someone who had successfully done just that. I could just squeeze them all in, in my big rectangular Graniteware roaster--the poster had said they were tight, but I was checking that the sides shrank enough to brown, and they did. She had done it at 450° F for 45 minutes. I thought mine looked good and browned and ready to go in the braise after about 15-20 minutes. The dry rub was a great way to get rid of the dry dry dry as the desert Whole Foods brown sugar--I think it was Mustangs (?) who'd reported trouble with it, and then I found some in my supplies. I didn't even remember it from Pesach agos. It's funky stuff, but still sugar, which is all that's needed to break down the connective tissue. That's smoked Spanish paprika, ginger, mustard powder, cumin, S&P--notice the similarity? It was only half on purpose, with a bunch of things coming together with similar flavor profiles. The short ribs also had the umamilicious combination of onions, celery, carrots, garlic and diced tomatoes, plus plenty of good red wine. Those vegetables, braised in the wine and fat from the beef, are out of this world, and delicious on the turkey as well.

The turkey was a honkin' big breast, boned, rolled and netted by the butcher, and cooked sous vide, with just a little EVOO, smoked Spanish paprika (more for color than anything) and oregano twigs. Takes up some counter space for sous vide (in my goose pot), but really good. My mother even liked it (as in called to rave about how good it was), and she's very honest about my cooking failures and foibles.

The asparagus was thicker, and less even in size than I usually get, and I didn't realize that how much it would cook in its own heat (from retaining more from being thicker than the matchstick kind I usually get), so it was a little more done than I'd prefer, but it was fine. I think the greens needed a bit more fat in them, but they were good with the squash. I think the dish would have been even better if I'd had time to grill the squash first. We've talked about how spiralizing is a fad, but one of the things I really like about it for squash is that the squash doesn't get mushy, and cooks evenly, even with the seeds. People raved about the marble sized roast potatoes, which are dead easy. The trick is to buy them when you see them, and store them very cold--getting them is the hard part. Sorting and cleaning them is a little time consuming (thank-you TV for the company), but cooking them is nothing at all. They're crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside, like the very best French fries. :) No green kugel. No Tzimmis. But much easier and less stressful, and something different this year.

But my poor chiffon cake. New lemon and orange recipe with no matzah meal, just almond flour and potato starch. I finally figured out that it was about 3 minutes under. It was cooked through, and rose so much that it was just shy of burning when I pulled it out. It had every sign of being fully done. I inverted on a bottle because it was taller than the feet, and left it overnight. As soon as I righted it, it started deflating. I've never had a chiffon fall before, but I've also never done a wheat free one before. The crumbs were really good, though, so I figured I'd serve it anyway. All through the day, it kept sinking more. I was so dismayed! It was still feather light and fluffy, though (just a little moist which is what makes me think it was under), so I can't imagine what it was like inside pre-fall. They ate 3/4s of it, so it couldn't have been bad!

OTOH, the mille crêpes with lemon pastry cream didn't happen. The matzah meal recipe I found was more like waffle batter than crêpe batter during the test run, but I kept thinning it with more milk, and when it got to crêpe batter consistency, it made really good crêpes. So I made a double batch, with less salt (it was a little too pancake tasting), a tad more sugar for it being a dessert, and Grand Marnier instead of vanilla. The first one stuck a bit, as they often do, but was perfect otherwise. The rest weren't! They seemed to shrink or tear or get too dark before the edges dry, or have a cooked bit mound up while I was still tilting the batter around. I did end up with 14 okay crepes, but not nice enough for company. If I have any energy for it, I'm going to make the pastry cream and raspberry sauce, anyway, tomorrow, and stack them up for a home treat, if they're still good. Otherwise, I'll either make more (which you know will be perfect because there's no company) or make a cake for the pastry cream and raspberry sauce. I'm wondering if the simmering pot of matzah balls on the stove affected the crêpes? Maybe. The chiffon cake was well received, however, perhaps for its very lightness, so maybe the locusts were happier not to have all that cream and egg more... Maybe a helpful little angel pushing things along?

Other than the pastry cream and raspberry sauce, I have no intention of cooking anything for awhile. Especially with eggs. :)

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