Buffalo requires full sun like bermuda to perform best so stratch that out.. Zoysia prefers a lot of sun, nowwhere as good shade tolerant as st augustine. If anything, I'd suggest coarse bladed type over fine type. Easier to mow with rotary mower at 3 inches. Empire and Palisades are my two recommendation. Actually, now that it occurred to me, Palisades has somewhat good shade tolerance and looks like mini-st augustine grass. keep in mind, they are like bermuda, They will take over plant beds, etc if left unchecked but not as aggressive. They spread underground so it makes it a bit tough to control and get rid of where it's not wanted. It should be fine somewhere that gets 6 hours of sunlight. Don't be fooled that they are drought tolerant. They still do need same amount of watering as st augustine to look good. The only difference is that st augustine will die if it doesn't get water over a long period of time while zoysia simply goes dormant and will come back once they receive water. Believe it or not "Floratam' st augustine outperforms all zoysia varieties when it comes to drought tolerant... Unfortunately, it has wimpy cold tolerance. Only for zone 9, MAYBE zone 8b. I think I have it up here but the sod place told me its not. Maybe it mutated from palmetto? Who knows... it seems to do fine up here. More aggressive for sure.

I don't disagree with Barb - the more prep you can do the better. But, when our St. Augustine was laid 25 years ago, it was done much the same as you describe. Our lot had already been graded down to the clay for the build of the house, and all they did was use a rake to loosen the top 1/4(?)" or so. No amendments, no nothing. It didn't seem to be a problem, the grass grew fine, although with no good soil we had to water an awfully lot. The next year we aerated the soil and added a compost and top soil mixture as a top dressing and that helped retain moisture better. Even if you aren't into organics, it might be a good idea for a year or 2 to make 1 or 2 applications per year of an organic fertilizer containing molasses. Both products will help with microbial activity in the soil to help improve tilth. You will probably be ok. If they quoted you a price and didn't indicate they would do soil prep and you didn't ask, you probably won't be able to get them back to redo.

You picked a doozy of a topic to reference. I don't think I've ever seen so many people piggybacking onto one thread. The spots you see on your grass are the same as those I posted in that other topic. The corn meal should help. Give it 3 full weeks. This is not a shade issue or a watering issue. St Aug will be thinner in the shade but it should be healthy looking with zero spots or yellow blades. Here's a picture of my lawn in San Antonio growing in deeper shade than you had. The point of this picture is 1) no spots, and 2) lots of shade. I took this picture to illustrate chlorosis in St Augustine caused by too much rain. The yellow blades in the center are from the rain. The point you cannot see is that this area looked horrible a month earlier from disease. You could see the soil, leaves, stolons, and spots on the few living blades of grass. Note that you can still see through the turf a little to the stolons underneath. If this was in full sun it would be so packed in the blades would be growing straight up. I'll get a picture of my new lawn in Bandera looking straight down. It's very hard to push a mower through that stuff. Okay I have to comment on the TAMU pamphlet on growing St Augustine. Generally when I see something from TAMU I read it and do the opposite. Truth! Here's my experience this year. I live in Bandera now, so think Texas Hill Country. Our temps ran in the mid to high 90s this year. We got our first rain on Memorial Day and it nearly washed my belongings out of the garage. It was 11 inches in 3 days with most coming the first night. That's too much rain so I was expecting to get some disease. I did but only about 1 square foot was affected. But since Memorial Day I have watering the actual grass one time. Fortunately we got some rain relief last week, so from June 1 to Aug 19 I did not water. Had I followed TAMU I would have watered it every 5 days. Had I followed my own advice (below) I would have watered it every 7 days. What the TAMU people did was over simplify watering, but then they went into too much detail on how to achieve the simple watering. Watering is slightly harder than they suggest but setting it up is easier than they suggest. Here's my take on watering after reading and moderating lawn forums for 10 years. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. I guess I should add that if it rains 11 inches, reset your calendar back by a month at least. Mowing height. If you read the topic you referenced you saw pix of my dog in the tall grass. (We found her and she's up at the new house in Bandera). From those pictures you can see that tall St Aug is pretty healthy. I seriously did not water, mow, fertilize, or weed that lawn from October 2011 through Feb of 2015. All it got was rainfall. 2011 and 2013 were drought years, and it thrived. Point is keep your st Aug as tall as you can stand it. Set the mower to the highest setting and weld it in place. Contrary to what TAMU says, mowing it low does not make a better turf. Fertilizing. If I was on a rigorous fertilizer schedule I would use organics 5x per year following the federal holiday schedule (Washington's birthday, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving). If I was on a casual schedule I would fertilize on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you decide not to use organic fertilizer, I would still strongly suggest you use it at least once a year in addition to, or in lieu of, one of your fertilizer apps. The general experience of the universe of lawn care websites is that lawns that get no organics for 10 years or so will develop issues where the chemical fertilizer seems to not be effective. One dose of organics will reset the soil biology and the chemical fertilizers will work again. I think you can avoid that issue by preempting it. Organic fertilizer is much less expensive per 1,000 square feet than compost. The fertilizer is also much easier to apply than compost.

Looks like it to me. Here is a link to some more information, which you might have already found. I would assume the grass came with the disease which got much worse with the rain. Take a note and don't buy grass from that supplier again. Being an organic kind of guy, I would be hitting the grass with ordinary corn meal at 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet every 3-4 weeks for the rest of the summer. This is INSTEAD of using a fungicide. As discussed in the link above, this is a soil borne disease. These problems are caused by an imbalance of beneficial versus pathogenic microbes - essentially an unhealthy soil. The fastest way to restore the soil to health is to use organic fertilizer, NOT fungicide. Corn meal has the additional benefit of heavily populating the soil with a predatory, but beneficial fungus called Trichoderma (try koh DER mah). Not all fungi cause disease. If you cannot find ordinary corn meal at your local feed stores (call first), then cracked corn will work. If you cannot find either one, then look for a grocery store catering to the Hispanic market. They will have 25-pound bags of corn flour. They will also have 25-pound bags of tortilla ready-mix which has baking soda and baking powder in it. The bags are almost identical, but you want the plain corn flour. Ask for help if you cannot tell them apart. If you have any doubts about the effectiveness of organic fertilizer, please ask. I think you ran into an unfortunate weather situation - unlucky timing. The grass could have been afflicted before you bought it, but that's hard to prove. It may have a guarantee or you might get a discount on buying again from the same supplier.