Remontant, do you want the dogwood to develop into looking like a small tree? or a shrub? If you do want a tree form, then right now; first, consider the fork in the nice fairly straight up growing trunk, The mainleader branch I am indicating is the one growing up beside the blue "A" in the photo above, If you remove the inside growing branch which helps to form the "v" crotch, I think your transplant is young enough to resume developing a single main leader for about 4 feet more before the leader should be allowed to develop into a modified leader form tree. As for the very dominant type left side branch growing very low out off that main leader branch just describe, It appears that it is also trying to develop into a side main multiple leader. Right now it seems good to immediately prune it down halfway between the blue pruining indicator marks and the yellow line in the above photo. Other than that, simply prune away the very lower-most thin twigs growing below the green line along the better main leader trunk that I first identified. Then, in the late summer, prune off the that lowest, left most, in the above photo, side branch that seems to be trying to grow straight upward. It is the one which appears to currently have almost grown its canopy to the height of your good main leader trunk canopy. It is the same branching side I first directed you to immediately cut down just under half height. In the photo above you can see it marked with blue dash where it joins very low along the above suggested best main leader trunk After that, let the tree grow for another year before doing any more major structual training. In the first couple winters, after the tree has gone dormant, you can prune away thin twigs, which helps to clean up the lower main leader branch, or do light pruning which helps to thin out any twigs which if allowed to continue to develop will be limiting the light infiltration to the middle of the tree. Of course if you instead are desiring for the dogwood to develop into a huge shrub or a weak muli leader tree form, then disregard my above pruning suggestions.

madelaine the basic idea is to eventually get all of the tree at a height where you can pick all of the fruit it produces. As a basic rule though you don;t want to shorten a tree more than 1/3 of its height in a single year. That being the case if the tree were 21' tall and you wanted a 7' tall tree you would cut the top 7' the first year leaving a 14' tree and cut another 7' the second year leaving you with a 7' tree. I know it sounds drastic but the tree can take it if the cutting is done during the dormant period. Fig trees respond very well to being cut back and you will wonder why you did not do this a long time ago.

Pruning cuts on mature trees should be made a foot out on the branch being cut not flush to the trunk as traditional. Surely you mean just outside the branch bark collar. But years to callus over is the process. Dan

Hi ruth_mi, I propagated mine only in warm seasons. In summer, normally I just add moist garden soil (mixed with natural compost soil if you can) in a transparent plastic pot with drains. The cutting must be 4 to 6 inches long, which is usually sufficient then slice off the bottom of the cutting on an angle. Longer cuttings sometimes dry out when placed deep inside the soil. Now poked 2 inches deep inside the soil, the soil should be slightly moist but not wet. I have water mine only the first 2 days. I placed them indoor near the window for indirect sunlight. If you don't have a warm season, you can simply put a heating pad. It'll usually root well in 3 months. Before transplanting outside in direct sunlight, make sure you have many dark colored leaves no young ones. This is a proof that you have strong roots. Also water 3 times daily for the first 2 weeks after transplanting, this will prevent shock (remember this is not overwatering since the roots will get thirsty and will need water for energy!) Here it's my first experiment and turned out surprisingly excellent. I have accidentally broken a branch from my own Mulberry tree, I just slice off the bit to an angle shaped and poked it directly into my garden soil in a shade area. After 2 months I noticed many leaves and I can also feel the roots in the soil. No need to transplant, it's in a very nice area ❤️ (the 2 attached photos)