Repotting large 15yr old Pedilanthus macrocarpas
Needless to sat , I have been putting this off for several years . Pot is big , soil is played out and the plant has been shrinking from its former glory. It is an amazingly deep rooted plant. Resilient to abuse. Matter of fact I have found root mass and sprouts originating in the bottom of the 20" deep pot. I guess in the wild it migrates deeper and deeper in rough soil to insure some moisture and cold resistance to the quick cold snap. I bet the root mass would go deeper if it could. I have had most top growth die in a cold front where I forgot it and it came back and it grew back. My kind of plant.
My thoughts are to take the root mass that was at the bottom of the pot and place it at the bottom of the new pot and then plant the stuff according to soil level on the plants. As you can see , that is DEEP. My other pot is a bit shallower, but it has more top width. It is still a deep pot.
It was in the dark green and it is going into the blue/lavendar pot. I am switching to pumice and expanded shale with some dirt. Maybe cactus soil. maybe some washed DG sand mixed with MG cactus soil.
Here is the root mass that I took off the bottom of the bottom of the pot, and more root mass in the pile above
here you can see how deep the root mass is on the stems that come off the roots. Interesting plant
Comments (9)
wantonamara Z8 CenTex
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
nomen_nudum
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Help with House Plants: Repot? Pot-Up?
Comments (46)I have some questions on same topic if I may; new to this forum, I spent last 4 days reading Al's extremely interesting/educational posts on container growing/soil/water retention etc. I will ask questions about 1 plant at the time (it may take forever since I have about 58 right now inside & they all need help). I just realized that I have tortured my potted plants & am very grateful that so many have survived for so long. I have 2 olive trees, do not have name since they were given to me (1.5yr ago)potted in 6"pots by friend who just divided/chopped off shoots from their original olive (brought abt.45yrs ago from Italy!). they keep it potted in regular potting soil&only advise I got is "do not water too often". I would think that they would do much better in Al's mixes-not sure if 511 or gritty. Do not know anything about olives.(They may be candidates for bonsai? I do not know anything about bonsai). They are growing in spite of present conditions(heavy soil). Planted in 7&8"pots respectively, 53&55"tall.(Don't know how to post pics). If Al or anyone else can give suggestions, will greatly appreciate. I am in Toronto & they are overwintering inside(warm&sunny-65-70*,south window-during day, abt.55*nights). Thank you. Rina...See MoreI need help with my old Christmas cactus
Comments (5)June, I hope I'm allowed to disagree with all of the above. These are not succulents. They are jungle cactus called Epiphytic Cactus, they grow where they can in trees. I am quoting, in part, from the CSSA Journal December 2006. They need to be in hanging baskets. Soil can be changed if you insists, I find it hard to print the whole instructions here. It needs a fast draining mix with humus in it. Leaf mold, bark, and Med. size perlite for drainage. Keep the other junk out. Just add to your regular mix extra Leaf mold, or Orchid bark. It likes the same soil that Orchids grow in. It likes an occasional feeding of Osmocote 14-14-14 after it flowers. (Dec.Jan.) Apply 2-10-10 in Feb. or March. this will stimulate Spring flowers. Keep slighty damp and frequently misted until new growth forms within 6-8 weeks. Do not root in water! P.S. you may use an Epi mix as well. They grow in semi-shade, then they will flower. This was written by RW Kohlschreiber Christmas Cactus have reliable flowers in early January. The plant is indeed a Schlumbergera . If you wish a print out of the article, please send a self addressed envelope. I hope I have been of some help and didn't ruffle too many feathers. This is for information, and only a small part of the article. If you put in a pot too large it may take a while to reflower, if you are going to transplant do it now if it is not in bud. They like to be crowded. Remember that they grow in trees in jungles, so they drain rapidly, they grow in tree/insect waste. No one transplants them in the wild. Karen you may correct my spelling because it bothers you. Norma...See MoreFicus Benjamina losing it's leaves
Comments (1)I see you just posted your question to another thread addressing the same issue. Did you read through it? When did you last fertilize? with what? what strength? is leaf loss manifest in oldest leaves only? There are many possibilities. The most common cause of defoliation in benjamina is a reduction in the amount of light the (individual) leaves receive. Leaf loss can even occur when the tree is not really resited, but only turned so the side of the tree that was exposed to the brightest light is shaded by its own foliage. The likelihood is, it's related to your watering habits and is likely a drought response. A drought response can be precipitated by an increasing accumulations of soluble salts in the soil from fertilizer and/or irrigation water, under-watering, or over-watering. BTW - your watering habits should change/adjust, as the plant uses varying amounts of water with changes in cultural conditions and as it moves through its annual growth cycle. You should not water on a schedule, but on an "as needed" basis. Water when the soil feels dry at the drain holes. Each time you water, you should water thoroughly so the soil is well-moistened. Return a few minutes later and apply more water so that 10-15% of the total volume of water applied flows out of the drain holes. The first watering allows some time for the accumulated salts to go back into suspension and the second watering flushes the soil of the dissolved salts. High levels of soluble salts in the soil inhibits the plants ability to take up moisture, causing both water (the drought response) and nutritional deficiencies. If you cannot water in the manner I described because you fear there will be subsequent root rot issues, your soil is inappropriate. If you describe your watering habits & answer the fertilizing questions at the top of my post, we should be able to get pointed in the right direction. Al...See MoreNeed advice on a pot choice...for a 20+ old cactus with damaged pot
Comments (10)My intentions are to just take a hammer and bust the current pot. I have done bonsai for two years...I'm not sure if I will be finding roots that need pruned...or needing work. I was told this cactus has NEVER been repotted. It's been in this pot from day one they owned it. Over 20+ years as they discussed what house they lived in when they got it. It is currently in a 12" pot...thinking going to 14" or should maybe it be larger...just something that will fit on the stand it's currently on? Previous us owners said to make cuttings to mix sand and potting soil half and half and stick the cutting into that mix. So...I am assuming that would be the same mix to repot into? Or no? I am not looking for cuttings and finding more area to house a cactus. My currant area has my tropical bonsai and I have allowed for those to grow and develop so I have no space for more cactus. I did send a 14" piece off to Florida to a bonsai aquanitence/friend who has a cactus garden of a piece that got damaged and fell over from its upright place in the pot. It had that lignified look to the lower end as well....See Morewantonamara Z8 CenTex
8 years agoOOPs to late. If this doesn't work , I will resort to chicken wire. That would have been easier. I think I get an F for spider-hood. The whole thing almost slipped over the lip and I was able to loop a string under and tie it off on two opposite sides. Getting the chickenwire off after installation might pull on the freshly planted things. But it sure would have been easier and might still be a way to go. The string , I can cut off. Always good having a Plan B. I think I have some chickenwire under the shop.
Well here goes. I will check in with progress.
wantonamara Z8 CenTex
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI have most of them in. . The string worked well in that one could push the webbed holes larger when needed to get in larger grouped rooted sections. There was flexibility in the "grid". As to the flopping, the world is just not a perfect world. I tied a soft rope around the top and slowly included more stems in them. I am leaving them to air dry in the pot a couple of days to let those darn poor bruised roots callous before I poor the dirt in. Then I can tug on the plants here and there to get the plants arranged. It was not a perfect process, but there were no huge surprises. Hopefully the rest of the process will go as smoothly.
Here goes the first little ones
They are now lost in the morass. The dirt I mixed up is a bit damp so another reason for waiting a few days before I continue.
tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
8 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
8 years ago
abarbie4me2
8 years ago
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a