The question about cost depends on several factors. Is the bathroom on the first or second floor? Whats below it?? Of course where you are makes a difference as well. We added a master bath last year. It was on the second floor, over a office below and there was no plumbing there at all. The plumber had to bring the entire stack up from the basement and then put in toilet, tub, shower and sink and put the vent up through the attic to the roof. The cost was about $5000- which I thought was reasonable. This was just the cost of labor- valves and fixtures were extra. We also had to pay a carpenter to box in the pipes in the room below and repaint of course!!! (One thing always leads to another) We are in the Boston area. You already have plumbing in the area, as well as an air stack through the roof. Remember too that depending on the size and circumstance of your space raising up the floor might make replumbing much less expensive than either putting it into the floor- or under the floor as we did. Good luck

I have a split style home with a planned layout similar to your last one on 3/31. Looks similar except I have about an extra 6' in the length (kitchen to DR) as well as no door to the garage on that side. I think ideagirl2 has good ideas. You will want an opening on either end for easy access into the kitchen or DR side. If the basement is unfinished, then swapping the steps might be a practical solution. A contractor can order a prefabricated set of steps to put in. If the closet in the hall is basically useless then this might be a good idea. Since its a ranch, then you should be able to flip it since there isn't another set of steps going up to a second story where then it would be impossible to flip them. However, this would mean you could not overlay another staircase on top of this one to expand for a second floor one day. You then would have to add another staircase somewhere else in the house and loose space. Moving the utilities can be expensive and it can affect headroom or remodeling plans for the basement. It depends where the waste lines are located in the home more then anything, since they need pitch from the sink to the waste stack. If that waste stack is located where the steps are then the pipe will have to drop below the floor joists below, since they will run front to back, and you will loose headroom. Not a big deal if this ends up in a utility area. Does the garage run all the way front to back? If so I would do the following to the plan noted above. 1) Move the garage doorway more to where the table is on the LR side. Thus, the door would start roughly where the table ends need the opening between the LR & DR. You then will be flipping the DR table and the door. This way when you come in from the garage you can enter into the LR or walk through the kitchen with Groceries. I would make the back window a sliding door. So the table is looking out the sliding door. It will make the room feel much bigger. I am putting in a nice 10' 4 panel sliding glass door for this very reason. If in fact no furniture could be placed between the right side of the fireplace and the wall as you drew it, my last recommendation is more structural and one I am grappling with now in my own home. That would be to make the opening even wider between the LR and DR table area. If you look at your pic you posted of the fireplace. I would take that opening and open the fireplace side all the way to the wall. This will make it more open and feel less cramped. You could even have them cut the ceiling joists and put the beam up so that you have a flat ceiling in the opening. This is what I am contemplating now. You then can see the fireplace for the DR table and the kitchen area, when facing the peninsula. You also can extend a table out into the LR if you have larger company at holiday times.

I am pretty spatially challenged, but I did just wrestle an 11 ft x 11 ft kitchen into something like submission, so I will weigh in here with a few ideas. First, what will dwarf everything else is your fridge. If you could install it so that only the front -- rather than the side as well -- shows from most vantage points, it won't loom as large. So, if you are willing to invest in replacing your windows and moving some plumbing, some variant on this might work: The lower cabinets next to the fridge are pulled out to match its depth. The windows above the sink and DW would be any array similar to those of laurainlincoln (with higher windowsills) or jenwrens (sills to the counter), both of which yield an enviably large area of glass. (Please note that I am pretty vague about the entrance to the kitchen from your 48" hallway. You obviously need a certain entryway width, but it could be achieved in several ways by messing with the fridge wall and the end of the range set of cabinets.) Looking from the DR, people would see the peninsula and either the end of the cabinets flanking the range or, if you prefer, a counterdepth wall. I too took down the wall between my modest kitchen and the DR. My kitchen is very different (yes, I would sell my soul for a lovely run of windows) but from the DR it does show the peninsula and the end of a run of cabinets, with no wall. Your peninsula would be longer and better looking; mine is truncated by a boxed-in chimney and shelves that were added to it to the depth of the countertop. Hope this stimulates the germ of an idea. Cheers. Here is a link that might be useful: laurainlincoln's windows to die for

It depends on what you do in the office and how much you want to spend, but I would: Get rid of the rug entirely and leave the floor au natural, but add a desk chair mat under your chair to protect the floor. Add a few tall shelves or bookcases, depending on what you need them for (files vs equipment vs books) -- Ikea has some nice options that aren't expensive and are easy to assemble. I'd add colour to the window covering (different drape? coloured tie?) and then decide if you want art work/photos and/or a corkboard/white board. If your peripherals (like printers, etc) are small, you may want to consider something like Ikea's Kallax series, because they could fit in some of the boxes, while you use others for books or baskets. I wish I'd thought of that before I got the storage unit I did.