Your question is pretty broad. It's similar to going onto an aviation forum and asking, "How do you fly a plane?" I'd recommend that you do some Google searches, search through and read some of the threads on here (see the search box at the bottom of the main forum), and maybe get some books on the subject. Research is the only way you are really going to get all of your questions answered. There is no perfect variety. Everyone's tastes are different and needs vary. Some people may value disease resistance highly, while others may be confident in their ability to treat their trees on a regular basis. Some may be seeking something different or be interested in preserving an older cultivars. The only universal difference between antique and modern apples is the amount of time the cultivar has been around. On average, modern cultivars are developed for consistent appearance and cosmetic appeal and tolerance of shipping and rough handling, while antique cultivars were often chosen for their flavor or cider-making qualities. Choosing a root stock should be about much more than dwarf v. semi-dwarf growth rate. Dwarf rootstock will result in a slower growing tree and may require less frequent pruning than a tree with a semi-dwarf rootstock, but the ultimate size of the tree is going to be determined by the pruner. Things like tree architecture, fruit size and quality, disease and pest resistance, drought resistance, soil adaptability, whether of not the tree requires external support, cold hardiness, proclivity to sucker, graft compatibility, amount of fruit produced (productivity), how young the tree will produce (precocity), how long the tree will last and produce fruit (senescence), and the amount and frequency of maintenance are also influenced or determined by rootstock selection. Don't waste money on buying unusually large trees. Larger trees are likely to experience more transplant shock. Smaller trees often outgrow and even overtake larger trees. Also, smaller trees are easier to plant. I usually start with 2' to 4' trees. Precocity will vary with scion and rootstock type, the age of the tree, and environmental conditions. In general, more dwarfing rootstocks will produce at an earlier age. Most of my semi-dwarf trees (so far, I've used EMLA111 rootstock exclusively) produced fruit their second year. I removed it early to allow the tree to spend more energy on becoming established. You really don't have to worry about having multiple cultivars for pollination if other apples are within eyesight. But, who can stop with just one type of apple? Personally, I'd shy away from multiple types grafted onto one tree. All-in-one trees require more attention to proper pruning technique and have a number of other disadvantages. The only time I would consider one is if I only had a very small spot and was limited to just one tree. If there's one thing you come away with from this response, it should be check your sources out before ordering! Your list of sources above tells me that you haven't even started doing that. Before buying any type of plant, check the nursery out on Garden Watchdog. I will include a link to my list of possible sources below. Urban Homestead, Burnt Ridge Nursery, and Cummins Nursery are examples of respectable sources for apple trees. Here is a link that might be useful: Sources for Fruit Trees and Plants

Lou, the main obstacle is frozen ground. Plant it as soon as you can get the shovel into the soil. I somewhat doubt your grafts will take, they don't callous well at low temps on dormant trees. Make sure to have some spare wood in the fridge to try the grafts again after the tree has started to leaf out. Scott

I'd be careful with the Jonathan. I tried a very small amount mixed with Arkansas Black and the flavor really showed through the pressing in a bad way. I was reading on a hard cider forum where a guy tried an all Jonathan batch, I don't think he ever got happy with it and a mix with Jonathan that ended with similar results. Personally I think you're working on a jumbled mess. Too many cooks spoiling the supper. Not that it would be bad but I think you'll end up with the same product any mass producer gets when they take whatever they can get their hands on from whatever variety that comes along in shape too poor for retail. Right now you have 26 varieties and you want to increase that to 36. You will have less than one apple from each tree in every gallon, I just don't see how any "uniqueness" will show through that. I think if you want unique you're going to have to select a mix of 3-6 of those and go with that. The pressing isn't the real time user. It's the grinding. Before I get into full production I'm going to have to come up with a grinding system I can dump full bushels of whole apples in. Right now I could probably press 2-3 bushels a day if I really pushed. If I could speed up the grinding I bet I could press 10 bushels without a problem. (Although 10 bushels would need a bigger washing system too and there's the issue of bottling that much in a day.) If you have a screw press you may wish for something that takes less elbow grease (and I guess you at 8000 bushels and almost 700 gallons). Also if you're going for retail production you have to pasteurize (federal law). If you sell direct you can avoid that and have a warning label. Here is a link that might be useful: Pasteurization of cider in PA

Bob, the problem is this groups selection list is limited to the above mentioned citrus as well as well as Celeste Fig, or boxed Satsuma fruit. Given I already have thousands of Satsumas ready to pick on the trees, boxed fruit is probably not the best option, I also already have a mature Celeste Fig (or at least something close to the Celeste family). p.s. I planted my first Avocado earlier this year, it is a Joey Avocado which is climate appropriate, as it was originally found growing in the Texas Hill country northwest of San Antonio which is about 400 miles west of here. Denise, that is a thought, though all the people that I can think of that I might normally give one to are going through life issues of one type or another at the moment, and I would not want to burden them with the care a citrus plant would need until it would be time to plant it in the ground in the spring.