We had scotts lawn service come out and they've treated the lawn for weeds twice, fertilized twice and aerated the lawn. However prior to doing any of that, the lawn still looked exactly as it does in my pictures. We've also had 10+ inches of rainfall and it continues to rain all this week. They mentioned no sign of chinch bugs or disease. Perhaps I should check the pH and apply Lime if necessary? This post was edited by VinceFLA904 on Wed, May 22, 13 at 17:12

I highly doubt its SADD if others in the area have the same looking disease. My guess would be brown patch. The area of brown patch that I had in the winter is greening up, but not fully recovered. The area has hardly any upward growth, it appears to be stunted, which is a usual characteristic after the BP occurrence. In order for these areas to fully recover and start upward growth, is to put some quality compost on the effected areas and keep it moist for a week or so. (bagged compost will also work). From past experience, compost is the only solution I have found for the grass to fully recover from Brown Patch disease. The experiment I conducted was to determine if I had Root Knot Nematode. I placed Corn meal on the area at the recommended rate and sugar on half of the effected area. Initially, the sugar half recovered faster, but currently the half with Corn meal only is doing better. It takes time to recover, try not to expect instant results. About sod webworms: The larvae are greenish with many black spots. Adults are dingy brown moths with a wingspread of about 3/4 inch. You will see alot of moths fly away (somewhat eradically) when you walk or mow over the area. The adults (moths) are laying eggs, and the larvae feed on the grass blades and cause noticeable injury within 2 weeks (early webworm damage resembles drought stress, even when there is sufficient moisture). They complete their life cycle in 5 to 6 weeks and have several generations each year. The soap flush technique is a good way to detect sod webworms. dchall is 100% correct. Last year he told me the same thing he told you about the paper wasp. In the past I would kill them because my wife was worried about them stinging the kids. In turn, I would get sod webworm damage every year. Last year I stopped killing them and I must say they proved to be a huge help to me. I only had a few very very small areas that were damaged by the webworms. I would always see the paper wasps hovering just above the grass blades hunting for there next meal. I also used the BT a few times last year. Timing is very crucial for the product to work. Apply BT 1 week after you first notice the adult webworm moths fly around, then reapply every 3-4 days if in full sun and every 5-7 days in shady areas until the moths are gone. If it rains or you run your irrigation you must reapply. Hope this helps Can you post a few pictures? It would help out a lot.

The grass is dry. That can happen from not enough moisture or from rotten roots not letting the water up. Are you getting puddles of water in the dry areas? Puddles can allow fungal rot to set in. If no puddles then the areas are not getting enough water. That could be due to sprinklers not adjusted right, runoff from hydrophobic soils, sandy soils allowing moisture to run through, or simply the idea that you need more than 1 inch per week this time of year. My guess is your sprinklers are not adjusted right. That's more of an educated guess because I can see what appears to be a circular shape on the grass in your big picture. Mid way up from center to the right side of the picture is a nice colored circle(ish) green. Outside of that is the dry area. If you put cat food cans perpendicular to the circle and turn on the sprinklers, you will probably see that the cans are not filling evenly.

That is weird that all over the net nobody recognizes fungal disease in St Aug. The first and last pictures show it crystal clear with the lesions running up and down the brown tipped blades. I have had rousing success fighting fungal disease with ordinary corn meal applied at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Call your local feed stores to check availability. The cost should be well under $10. They might think you want corn gluten meal. You don't. The difference in price will tell you they are selling you the wrong product. CGM sells for roughly $30 per bag. When corn meal decomposes it attracts a fungus which attracts a predatory fungus causing the predator to over populate. Once the initial host fungus is gone, the predator goes after the disease fungus. Your alternative is to use chemicals. I can't help you with that. I've never needed them. But if you use chemicals first, then you cannot come back and try the corn meal later. The chemicals will kill off the predatory fungus from the soil. Try the corn meal first. If, after 3 weeks you don't like the results, either apply the corn meal again or try chemicals. Corn meal was the only thing that worked for me and was good enough to convince me to go full organic with my fertilizer. If you are happy with the corn meal after 3 weeks, you might just use it every month this summer to make sure you got it all. Corn meal is an organic fertilizer, so apply to the entire yard. Otherwise as the grass comes in over the dead areas, it would be much darker green. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.