have you replaced carpeted stairs with wood?
3katz4me
8 years ago
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Solid wood stairs or carpet on stairs...which would you do?
Comments (26)The potential problems with removal of runner are dependent upon how the runner was installed. Some dearies actually tack the runner to the steps, tread and riser. Ouch, because removal leaves those holes to be filled and stained to match (very difficult to conceal). An alternative method is to use carpet bars which come in wood or metal, in an assortment of finishes. This is slightly more expensive but imo, also *looks* more luxurious. The carpet is barred at the back of the tread where it meets the riser; best practice has the runner tacked beneath each tread rather than slanted from top-front to the back of the next lower riser. Note that under-tread tacking also uses the most running feet of carpet, so the most finished appearance is going to cost. There are several other methods, so discuss intent with the installer before s/he does the work. One thing for sure, is to not use any sort of sticky-back tape: it either doesn't hold well, or holds too well and removel is labor-intensive. Because of the carpet pile height, if possible choose treads that are slightly deeper than usual so as to maintain fully safe depth....See MoreStairs - replace carpet with hardwood
Comments (12)handymac's description is an excellent one. The key to remember is that it's the top and bottom stairs that are the potential bugaboos. If they are equal to start with, then any increase/decrease in tread thickness (like his 2" --> 1 1/4") will make the top stair shorter/taller by that difference, and the bottom stair taller/shorter by that difference. (Hope I didn't totally confuse you.) So if your new material is 1/2" thicker than the old material, the top step is 1/2" less than it was and the bottom step is 1/2" more. Now they're an inch different from each other, which doesn't meet code. But if you change your flooring on the bottom floor or top floor, those will impact it as well. The other thing to keep in mind is that your stairs may or may not be constructed as handymac describes. Our carpeted stairs actually had 1x pine treads. So that's 3/4" thick + 1/2" carpet = 1 1/4" total. Swapping out to oak treads had no impact on the rise between stairs. Or your existing stairs may have a top (or bottom) stair that has more or less rise than the rest of them. So the change in tread may still keep them within the code-required tolerance. The best way to know the answer is to remove the carpet and see what you've got, and measure each riser. Listen to what he said about gaskets or rosin paper. We didn't do that on ours and chased squeaks for quite a while....See MoreHave any of you purchased carpet stair treads instead of carpeting?
Comments (1)I've lived in houses with both runners on the stairs (held in place with brass rods at the back of each step), and with small ovals of carpet tacked to each tread. (and of course the wall-to-wall variety that I've always torn out at the earliest opportunity. Either the runner or ovals can go quite well in a period Victorian decorating scheme. My strong preference though is for no carpet on the stairs. Carpet always seems to increase the opportunities to trip on the stairs....See MoreReplacing carpet with LVT stairs... didn't expect such sloppy stairs
Comments (10)Sigh....carpets hide HORRIBLE surfaces. And you've just discovered another place where this is true - the stairs. *In THEORY (ahem....too much work for most professionals - they would skip over to a surface and be done with it), you can TRIM OFF the slight overlap nose on every single tread to create a perfect 90 deg angle for each riser/tread combo. Then you need to STRIP AND SAND down the white material SITTING on the wood. Please check for lead based paint if the house was built before 1978. (If there is LEAD....move on to full removal/replacement of the tread/risers and leave well enough alone.) Once the wood is PERFECTLY CLEAN (and that means free of the chemical STRIPPER you used to remove the white ?paint?), you can then go ahead and putty all the little staple holes and cracks, etc. Then you sand again. This thing should be as smooth as an Ice Rink! Now you are ready to glue down the vinyl and the nosing. Shouldn't take more than a week. Or you source IDENTICAL thickness wood (pressure treated for this purpose) and remove and replace each and every riser and tread. Be aware....as soon as you TOUCH these things, you need to bring the whole thing up to code. Move ONE piece and you need the whole thing to code. And code means "Finishing Carpenter" level of mastery....and legal everything that goes with the title. If you do this, you might as well have them deal with the banister, etc and have everything moved up to code at the same time - no sense in waiting. If you simply resurface the treads with new carpet, you get away from all of this. If you can resurface using the original material, you should be able to keep everything else as-is. As soon as you remove stuff, and "rebuild" then you are getting into so serious code issues. Personally, I would throw down a stunning carpet that compliments the LVT and leave well enough alone. Make it look handsome by using a runner and then fixing/painting out the treads/risers in a pretty way....but it will involve a huge amount of work. Good luck. Check the paint for lead before you do anything else....See More3katz4me
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8 years agoBonnie
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