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linnea56chgo5b

New antique gate garden centerpiece: looking for ideas for plants

linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

After a lengthy period of working on it, getting the rust off, then
sealing it with an industrial coating and then outdoor oil paint tinted to match the original color, I had an
antique wrought iron gate installed yesterday in my garden. It’s actually a
fence section, but I have been calling it a gate since I bought it. It's
50" high and 45" wide. The two outer legs are 35" wide. So,
higher than wide. The legs were too short to go into concrete, so it is attached
using 2 kinds of clamps to square pipe sunk 2 feet below grade and set into
concrete. The clamps are attached to the outermost legs.

It’s right in the center of my front yard garden. Some perennials were moved out of the way.
One hardy hibiscus we dug out, and I have not yet decided where it should go. I
think if replanted near the gate, it will be too leafy and end up hiding it.



So I am looking for ideas to redesign around this. I used to
have tall plants, like the hibiscus, in the center: but obviously the gate
provides that height and focal point now.
In general I like colored foliage more than a plain green plant that has
great flowers but then is uninteresting the rest of the season.

I am thinking…. Very low in the center in front. The bottom
tips of the uprights are not all the same length, and I did have to shim one
end with bricks because that end wants to slide down the pipe. But 6 inches of thicker foliage would cover
that.

Probably not hostas because that garden has loads of them at
the shadier end, where the gate is NOT located. I love heucheras but have
rotten luck with them. Drainage is probably not good enough, as I have solid
dense clay one foot down. Something golden or yellow-green would be great. I
was thinking of a short golden grass, like Japanese forest grass, except I
should probably use something with a different leaf form to contrast with the
verticality. In the foreground, which you can’t see very well, I have a large
area of Ajuga Mahogany, which provides a bronzy purple that goes well with
gold.

Rising slightly higher at the outermost uprights, to hide
the hardware. 16” would do it. Then “bookends” flanking the 2 outer ends, to
transition the tall gate into the rest of the garden. Nothing dense: something
airy. I am thinking of purple leaved cimicifugas (actea). I bought
one 2 years ago I am crazy about. Not sure if it will get tall enough
eventually.

What is (or was) there now is represented in the second group of photos: Filtered sun in the morning, then direct sun from about 11 am to 3 pm, then house shade after that. Where the gate is located now is in the left side of the photo, between the liatis at the right, and the lily stems reaching for sun at the left. Gate shot # 2 is the closest angle to this first "before" photo:

Below: I overhauled the shady end of it, to the left of the first shot, (starting about 4 feet from the gate) last year, with new hostas, dwarf shade grasses, and small leaved geraniums. That area flows into this garden, but the gate area gets more sun. In this lower shot, the curving lilies at the upper right hand corner, and the yellow green shrub, mark the left edge of the gate.

There are shrubs (2 barberries and 3 variegated weigelias),
which I keep short by cutting them down really harshly and keeping them short. (if they object and die, that's ok with me)

Some of the perennials may come back in the gate area, some
might not due to unavoidable trampling. I can move or retain as need be. There is
/was: tall blue salvia caradonna, a tall blue veronica, white liatris,
chocolate eupatorum, various daylilies; with asiatic and trumpet lilies, and
peonies toward the right end of the bed. The shrubs will rather hide the gate
from the back, and I am more concerned about what I will see myself from the
center of the yard.

Thanks for your ideas!

Comments (21)

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Nice garden with great foliage variety and I love the pops of bloom interspersed. I like the idea of something with tall bloom spikes for part of the season and mounding foliage when not blooming. The Acteas that used to be called Cimicifugas have several dark-leafed selections, and they vary some in height, so you can probably find one that fits what you want. Look at Delphiniums as well which would fit a similar pattern, but bloom earlier in the season. The foliage is green, but has an interesting cut leaf that I think would contrast well in color and form with what you have there. You could even plant Delphiniums on one side and Actea on the other.

    In my garden my Japanese forest grass/Hakonechloa All Gold arches enough so that it reads as a mound so I wouldn't see that as too similar in form to the fence uprights. You might find one of the shade-tolerant perennial Geraniums has the form you like, and there are choices with an increasing range of foliage color, though I don't have any specific suggestions.

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I forgot about delphiniums. I always think I can’t grow them. But I have
    always tried in my back yard, which is a raised bed. What moisture conditions
    do they like? What I’ve tried has always been one in the round table series,
    which is all I normally see in nurseries. But my favorite mail order nursery
    has quite a few kinds. The delphiniums would go well with the lilies I have on
    the sunnier (right) end. Is there a particular variety that is hardier?

    I have 2 kinds of Japanese forest grass/Hakonechloa. The striped
    one with the weeping form I’ve had for years, in the sun, and I just bought 2
    All Gold last year for the shady end of this bed. It’s too soon to tell how
    they will perform, but in that deeper shade they did go all pale green rather than
    gold. In front of the gate they would stay more gold.

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  • peren.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Your gardens are lovely!

    If you like Babs idea of Delphiniums (I know I do) then I will say that I used to grow the ones from the Round Table series but have switched to the Magic Fountain series. The MF series is almost half the height at 4-41/2 feet tall. They are full wands of flowers just like the RT series but ever so much easier to stake attractively.

    p.s. Delphiniums like deep, moist, fertile soil. They are gross feeders and appreciate a yearly top dressing of compost.

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Thanks for the idea about the Magic Fountains delphiniums. I
    will look those up. I have to start thinking about colors, too. I wanted to
    keep the gate it’s original shade, which a friend who travels to France to photograph
    gardens said it very traditional.

    Ken, I’m not sure what you mean about that application…? If
    you mean the position, where would you have placed it? I tried out (in my head,
    I mean, walking around with a photo) a couple of other locations but couldn’t
    find a place I thought ideal.

    Except for one very small bed in front of my dining room,
    everything in my other gardens has evolved over time, mostly as I saw stuff I
    liked, or deleted things that didn’t work. They really didn’t have a design I
    planned around, other than “tall things in back,” and color/texture
    combinations. The upper level of my back yard 2 tier raised bed was completely
    dug out and re-done last spring. I did that because the soil level had sunk to
    the point that I needed to raise it. The hosta garden at the left end, under
    the pine shade, was 50% dug out and rearranged last fall. This
    central garden has been the one I most disliked because it still had a lot of
    things that turned out to be the wrong size or place. Now I get to re-think the
    whole area. I tend to “do what I know,”
    which is why input is so valuable to me.

    And by squat, you mean the last year’s fully-grown garden,
    as in my second set of photos? Or now,
    when nothing has emerged? For tall
    elements there I had / have liatris and lilies. Plus I had the hibiscus that is
    presently waiting for me to decide where to reposition.

    I’ve thought of clematis or heavenly blue morning glories, but
    didn’t want to cover too much of the gate. I could VERY easily be tempted by another
    clematis, though. A group 2, cut almost to the ground one. I have tried some
    really tall hanging basket supports in that bed before, but the ground is too
    soft to hold them upright. I’ve thought about adding a wire obelisk with vines
    on it before. But more than one metal element would look too busy now, most likely.

    Yes, the tree bothers me too! A branch cracked longways on
    the tree last winter when we had a heavy snow. It was starting to droop lower
    over the garden each time we had a very windy day. I was afraid it would split
    fully and rip the bark further down. My
    friend cut it off for me, knowing that I would trim it properly as soon as I
    could. I’m still supposed to stay off my feet a good deal of the time
    (recovering from knee surgery 2 weeks ago). Or I’ll get my husband to do it
    when he gets back. He no longer wants to work in the garden, but he will trim
    trees and shrubs. I wish the thing could look more complete when he arrives,
    but it’s April, and that can’t be helped. I hired someone to help me do the remaining
    cleanup, since I can’t kneel, but she can’t come for over a week.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago

    If you do decide on a clematis, you want a group 3 if you want hard prune. They can be pruned any time after the garden has started winter. I often do my pruning in fall so that I don't have to look at the dead vines for long. Group 2 is light prune after bloom and would leave you with dead vines and foliage all winter.

  • mnwsgal
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Most of my Type 2 clematis are treated the same as Type 3s and pruned after a killing frost in November. I left some type 2 s untrimmed last fall but rabbits cut them all very low. Look for a shorter growing clematis. Some only grow 4 ft or less. Most of my type 3s are very large vines in height and width.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago

    Some of the shorter type 3 herbaceous ones might do well there leaning on or clipped to the fence. In my area, many type 2's function as type 3's like mnwsgal's since they get killed to the ground or the snow line in winter, but I think Chicago may be a bit warmer most years and so have a chance of early blooms.

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Whoops, got the clematis types mixed up. I looked them up last week to
    know how to prune the ones I have but forgot which number was which pruning
    technique. Neither type got killed to the ground (mild winter). I had not
    pruned them in fall.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    8 years ago

    And by squat, you mean the last year’s fully-grown garden


    ==>>> i mean ... the garden is heavy in horizontal aspect .... all kinda straight across at what.. two foot hosta height??? ... yes.. you have a few other perens that get a bit more ...


    but the gate goes way beyond ... the rest ... so i wanted you to use that aspect ...


    MGS are fast .. and great color ... they would get you some immediate mid summer impact ... and there is no reason you have to leave them there until frost ... rip them out.. when they cover too much fence.. and.. as a plus.. you wont get 50 million seedlings next year ...


    you could put a later flowering clem on one side.. MG on the other ... enjoy the blue early .. and when the clem starts to come on ... remove the MG ...just dont let them grow together, for ease of removal ...


    great on pruning off that branch ... if it takes a year.. thats fine.. as long as you know its not proper ...


    ken



  • woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
    8 years ago

    Nice pattern on the gate/fence panel. My first reaction is that it reads as a gate but that implies access and a path connecting spaces and those are absent. I think I'd try to imply them by moving the plants behind the panel to the right side. That would provide a sightline through the gate/panel to the open spaces beyond. Moving the denser-looking plants off to the right would sort of visually extend the panel in that direction. I'd try implying a path by planting low-ish silvery things running from the paved area in the foreground, across the bed, and then under the gate to the far side of the bed. I'd plant the spiky things like delphiniums on the right (in front of the plant moved from behind the gate) and dark acteas on the shadier left side. The delphiniums (Magic Fountains are good!) should like the lime from the concrete for the gate....



  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago

    Woody, I like the silver path idea.

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Interesting idea, a path running up, through and beyond. I’d have to remove
    a barberry and 2 weigelias. I hate the barberry anyway. It’s always dropping
    thorny twigs. The weigelias are nice, but maybe I could move them somewhere. I
    will not be able to dig out a shrub, though. I’d have to hire someone.

    You can’t see it very well in the photos, but there are stepping stones of
    the same material as the patio, dotted
    through the foreground swath of Mahogany ajuga. They don’t make a path, they
    just break up the space. It’s to make a transition between the large paved area
    and the garden. The ajuga just covered them. When I can kneel again I will cut
    it off where it covers.

    The bottom edge of the gate is not uniform, I’d planned to
    cover that with foliage. This fence section must once have been made for a
    slope. The bottom tips of the uprights are longer on the left and shorter on
    the right. I did have to shim the right end with bricks because that end wants
    to slide down the pipe. We thought the
    clamps with hold that end up, but they don’t. But 6 inches of thicker foliage
    would cover that.

    H’mmm…What kind of silver plants? A few come to mind like Artemisia,
    but I have too much moisture for those. Ditto blue fescue. I have lamium in a different
    bed, which has almost fizzled out. Cerastium tomentosum? I have that in the sunniest part of a back bed. So
    far it has not survived in the shadier parts. I’ve never tried it in this bed.

    I’m not sure how to transition a silver path into the foreground purple
    aguga, though. Unless I dot it here and there and taper it off a third of the way
    into that bed, toward the viewer.

    Thanks for the clarification, Ken. I see what you mean now
    with regards to heavily horizontal. I am on pain meds so not everything with
    words clicks as it should. (I’m making some dandy artwork, though.)

    I liked the hostas with the tree trunks arching up through
    them, but the gate throws everything off that worked before.

  • woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Ouch re the knee surgery! I hope the recovery goes well - and quickly!

    If the area is moist and not compatible with silvery things, perhaps a golden path would work better. I see quite a few golden things in the 'before' pictures.... I tried making a golden path under our pines but gave up after no golden heucheras survived, and our dog, Cole, thought the golden forestgrass was candy planted for his pleasure! Only the Sum and Substance hostas survive of the perennials I planted there. The golden Full Moon Japanese maple survives and two dogwoods are hanging on by 'the skin of their teeth' :-) The concept looked very promising though.... I though silver might be a better match for the gate color but maybe the yellow would work too.

    I wouldn't make a transition to the ajuga - I'd clear a path through the ajuga right up to the paving and then plant the silver or gold plants in a stream from the paving right through/under the gate. Since I would use low-ish plants ( i.e not true groundcover plants) , it should be easy to plant something slightly taller on the low side of the fence.

    Given your knee situation, it sounds like maybe moving stuff around this spring isn't going to happen unless you have someone to do the digging for you...! Working out a concept/plan is a good start and then you could piece it together over a longer period as you heal and/or as help becomes available. I'd lend you our ever-so-helpful nephew if I could :-) Do you have one of those?!

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I don’t know how moist it is objectively: just that things like
    artemisias and the fescues died quickly.

    I had a lot of gold plants to contrast with other purple
    foliage I have. With little snow cover this year, most of my purple or gold heucheras
    seem to have died out. The one that has survived the longest is H. Citronelle,
    which is a really good gold. My 2 oldest Citronelle survived the winter but don’t
    look very good. The 2 I planted last summer seemed not to make it through at
    all, at any rate I can’t see anything. I think it’s time to stop buying
    heucheras.

    I could use the more weeping/prostrate gold and green
    striped japanese forest grass Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola’, which grows well for me
    in a nearby area, but I’m not sure how well that would “read” as a path in this
    small area. It’s not that low. Off hand I can’t think of anything else gold and
    very short.

    No helpful nephews, unfortunately! I’ve hired someone who is
    coming next week. I hired her to do a spring clean-up before I knew I might be
    doing an extensive reworking. She is a Master Gardener, which is probably beyond
    what I need, and pretty expensive; but she is the only person of the 4 people I
    contacted who returned a call. I think moving out shrubs might be beyond the
    kind of things she does, but I won’t know til I ask.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago

    I found Cerastium foliage always looked kind of bad after bloom, even when cut back. Would one of the frosted Brunera work?

  • woodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
    8 years ago

    I hope I haven't lost too many of my purple heucheras... - I haven't checked on them yet (they are currently buried under our recent snowfall!). I have quite a few purple heucheras and they have usually survived well in the sunny beds. I've had no luck at all trying the chartreuse ones in shade.

    Light could be an issue with plant choice - the left side of your bed must be shady and you have lots of hostas there in the pictures - is there enough sun on the right for the delphiniums? Frosty brunneras would work if there is shade where the 'path' could go, but they'd burn in sun. Some of the small yellow hostas could work for a golden path. The 'Curly Fries' one might be interesting in combination with some of the more rounded-leafed dwarf yellowish hostas. The Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola’ is the grass I was trying to use along my attempted golden path - but Cole ate it down to the ground! Since the 'path' in your case would be just an illusion, not a walkable path, (just as the 'gate' is not a real, functioning gate), I think a consistent thread of one color through the greens and purples would be sufficient to read as a path to the gate even if the height and forms of the plants vary a bit - within reason of course.

  • suejbrl
    8 years ago

    I have a similar bed with an antique brick patio. I mainly looked at photos so this may already be addressed. I would paint the gate white and pull in some white flowers here and there in the bed. It will make the whole garden bed pop.

  • peren.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
    8 years ago

    linnea if you are still thinking low for a walkway have you considered using the stone you already have in the garden to make a pathway to the gate. Sagina subulata or Sagina subulata 'Aurea' between and around the stone would be very low and your other plants could still be used at the edges. It would provide access to the center of the garden and be a lead up to the "gate".

    I would have also suggested Thymus pseudolanuginosus (Wooly Thyme) for its soft grayish green but it would need perfect drainage.

  • linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Thanks for the further suggestions.

    There is a lot more sun on the right end. Lilies do well. I think delphiniums would be fine
    there. On the shady left, I just had to cut down an overhanging branch due to the trunk
    cracking in a heavy snow, that may make the left end more sunny than it has
    been before. Hopefully my gold hostas will not get fried. I’m thinking about a
    monkshood in the shadier end too.

    I think the path idea, though it appeals to me, will be dependent on whether
    I can get at least 2 of the bushes behind it dug out.

    Though I love the way it looks, I can’t keep frosted
    Brunnera alive. I was slowly getting some to expand in the backyard, but the
    lack of snow cover seems to have done them in too. They would be up by now if
    they were alive. A plain green one in another bed is up.

    One silvery plant that came to mind is pulmonaria. That does
    well in one bed around a tree (same location where the silver Brunnera croaked).
    I have one I got in trade (so don’t know that name) that is almost all silver,
    with just a fine green edge, rather than
    spotted. Since I have not done much planting around the gate location recently,
    I don’t know how the drainage compares
    to the adjacent hosta bed at the left, which is at the base of a very slight
    slope.

    Since I have a lot of gold and purple, the easy route would be to just use Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola’, since I already know I can grow that. Though
    where I have it now gets a lot of sun, conditions for both areas would be
    comparable.

    At least for now, I can’t extend the stepping stones. It
    will be a while before I can kneel well. It was a marathon of kneeling to
    prepare the base, paver base, etc., and lay the stones 2 years ago.

    The gate color I’m keeping. I matched the original paint,
    which a friend told me was a very traditional shade for garden fence in France
    where this came from. I have an outdoor metal/wood bench on the patio which I
    will paint to match. It also goes well with my house trim.

  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    8 years ago

    Another silvery option could be a white-flowered Lamium. And with your knee, none of this has to be done now . . . fall is a great time for planting!