Hi, It seems to me you have a short to ground somewhere. If you replaced the GFCI and it still won't reset, maybe the original GFCI was O.K., and was tripping because you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe this web site is helpful. Has some tips on tryign to find shorts. Please be careful though!!! http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/ One final remark is if you do not have a Volt Tick perhaps you should get one. Prices range from $US 15 to about $US 25. It is a pen like device that will tell you if a circuit is live or not. Nice thing is it works via an electric field sensor. Hence you can test safely without stripping insulation or touching any bare wires. Saved me a few times! http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+1ACII+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&Category=ELT(FlukeProducts) Best, Mike.

You should also know that you will not be able to use a dimmer to control the receptacle with the puck lights. Receptacles on dimmers are not allowed. A large advantage of the small pucks is the ability to dim them when less than full light output is needed. The other problem with 120 V pucks that use 120 V bulbs is they are VERY vibration sensitive. Even using then under kitchen cabinets will result in enough vibration to shorten bulb life badly.

There are a couple of ways to do this. First determine where you want the outlet, then get a NEC approved junction box along with 12/2 Romex and some wire nuts. Remember, since this outlet is in a bathroom, NEC Code requires that you use a GFCI outlet. Next, kill the breaker that supplies the switch. What does the switch operate, an overhead light? If it does, drop the light down and look for the wire connect of two black wires. This is the source line. It supplies power to the switch. Work the 12/2 wire from where you want the outlet to the source wire. Open the splice on the two black wires and pigtail the new black wire together with the other two wires. The white wire needs to be pigtailed to the White from the source cable, not from the switch. THAT IS VERY IMPORTANT!! At the other end, install the plastic box into the wall. I personally like my source wires to enter the outlet box from the bottom, so route the wire into the bottom of the outlet box from the bottom. Depending on the type box being used, secure the wire to the box per code. Strip the ends and connect the GFCI to the wires. Power on the breaker test the outlet by plugging in a radio or lamp. If the outlet is working, press the test button on the GFCI which should kill the outlet. If that works, turn the breaker back off and finish the assembly. If you are at all unsure, get a qualified, licensed electrician to do this for you.

You can a six to two adapter plug at most of the home centers. I've got one in my dining room and it's plugged into a Decora receptacle which is the same pin spacing as a GFCI. I've never seen a 4 plug GFCI. You can however just install a second receptacle (either another GFCI chained of the protected side of the first one). I did that for my wife's vanity (There is actually four in over the countertop and one in the back of the cabinet so she can leave things charging in the drawers.